Rockbox Xduoo X3
Mar 22, 2017 at 9:16 PM Post #1,501 of 2,617
  Ok, I see I'm not the only one having problems with the recent versions of Rockbox. The problem for me started with the 47ec887-170310 update.
 
I've tried everything I can think of: installing a fresh copy of the .rockbox folder, clearing all the database files. I put a fresh copy of .rockbox on a different SD card and tried that in the first slot.
I even tried reflashing the bootloader, but for some reason nothing happens - I downloaded the "update-to-rockbox-d312ba8M-160316.zip" file, renamed it to update.zip and placed it in the root of the SD card, but selecting the update option in the stock firmware immediately gives me an 'update succeed' message, and clearly nothing has been written. I even tried flashing it back to the stock bootloader, and got the same thing - the rockbox loader is still present. I tried flashing manually, and the USBBurnTool simply sits there doing nothing, though the driver is installed.
 

 
A few updates ago (I think maybe in Feb), XVortex posted that to get the latest version you had to do the FULL version. Up until then, we've only had to download the "update-blah-blah.zip" version. I hadn't done the FULL version since I originally installed Rockbox on my X3 a year ago. What's worse, I somehow missed his post re: this, so when I did the "update-blah-blah.zip" version like I've been used to doing, I had some odd problems. I don't remember exactly what the issues were, but once I found his post a number of pages back re: the full instead of update version, I went back and did that and I was gold.
 
So bottom line - download the latest FULL file (currently "rockbox-full-373bf9c-170317.zip") and try that out (ie unzip to root of your sd card). Once you do the FULL version, there's no need to also do the UPDATE version (ie "rockbox-update-373bf9c-170317.zip") because it contains the same stuff. You'll pick back up with only doing the UPDATE version from this point on.
 
Let us know if that solves the issue.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 10:13 PM Post #1,503 of 2,617
So you mentioned that if you keep rebooting that you can eventually get it to boot OK.
 
What I would do is install one of those clean cards with NO MUSIC - just a freshly unzipped version of the FULL file.
 
Then do your trick to get it to successfully boot. As soon as you get it to successfully boot, immediately go to Settings - General Settings - System - Disk - Directory Cache, and set it to No.
 
Then go to Settings - General Settings - Database - Initialize Now.
 
Now wait 5 minutes and reboot the X3. It should do the multi-step 'updating database' thing. Assuming it finishes all 8 (or was it 9) steps, then load a FEW (ie maybe 10-20 files; not your whole collection) music files into a folder (I recommend creating a folder called Music** on the root of the card, then load your music in there)
 
Like this:
 
<root>\
         .rockbox\
         Music\
                   Artist 1\
                                Album 1\
                                Album 2\
                   Artist 2\
                                Album 1\
                   Artist 3\
                                Album 1\
 
** It's not totally necessary to put everything inside a "Music" folder, but I've found it does make certain things easier & more reliable (managing Playlisyts, etc).
 
Then try playing some of the music files you copied. Assuming it works without crashing, copy the rest of your music files.
 
Mar 23, 2017 at 6:00 PM Post #1,505 of 2,617
Can you disable directory cache in the config file ?

So you could do this on a PC by editing in note pad ?

 
Most likely. The config.cfg file has everything else in it, and the setting has to be stored somewhere.
 
I'll check my config file and let you know.
 
** UPDATE ** - Yes, the setting is in the config.cfg file:
 
dircache: off
 
Something else interesting to note for those of us with 2 sd cards. The config.cfg settings are read from/written to the config.cfg file on the SECOND card (ie Micro SD2 slot). Yes, there's a config.cfg file located in .rockbox of both cards, but the system seems to use the one on the card #2. However, the EQ presets are read from/created on the FIRST card (ie Micro SD1 slot). Very odd.
 
Mar 25, 2017 at 5:02 AM Post #1,509 of 2,617
For a while there I was beginning to wonder if my X3 actually did have a hardware problem. But I managed to track down an older (and, it seems, slightly modified) build of Rockbox dated 07/02/17 on a Russian board. Loaded this up and my X3 now works perfectly, though I had to reboot a couple of times at first (possibly to flush out old code in a cache?) - I got the panic again on first boot and my heart sank, but it's booted without problem since then.
 
I'll try the latest build this weekend and see if that works. I'd certainly like to have auto frequency shifting, which is a nice feature.
 
Obviously this isn't a general problem otherwise there'd be loads of people reporting issues. So I wonder if xDuoo made some changes to the X3 during its production run. I bought mine in Nov 2015, so it's a pretty early version (though it has the house icon and 'back' text on the top right button, so it's not the earliest).
 
Mar 26, 2017 at 5:09 AM Post #1,510 of 2,617
  hiya.
I've fixed some PANIC's in 900fd64-170324. Plz check and report.

 
Unfortunately this still fails on my device, though the error code produced is slightly different to before (see pic). These boot-time panics have always been non-deterministic, in that if you just keep trying to boot it will eventually manage to come up successfully, but this version seemed more resistant than the previous ones as I had to keep rebooting for several minutes before it finally loaded the system. As before, the first couple of boots went fine, but after 4-5 boots the boot panics began and just got more refractory; switching back to the February build that works yielded a lot of panics the first time I tried to boot, but once it had loaded successfully all subsequent boots were error-free. 
 

 
The testing was done with a completely fresh version of the .rockbox folder: I archived and deleted the old one and copied over the full version of the updated files.
 
Mar 27, 2017 at 12:07 AM Post #1,512 of 2,617
I changed out the screen cover on my X3 this weekend with positive results. I now have no issues reading the screen outdoors. I can't take credit for this mod however, as I've seen someone else do this on HF 1st. That individual didn't use the same materials as I did though, but the net result was the same.

I used a replacement top screen cover (NOT screen protector FILM) designed for a Nintendo DS Lite (I had a used one laying around from a previous DS Lite repair). It was about the right thickness, is made from shatter-proof and scratch-resistant plastic (probably polycarbonate), and cut easily with scissors.

Here's a example of the product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZedLabz-rep...for-Nintendo-DS-Lite-NDSL-Black-/291678096912

You can find them on ebay (and probably aliexpress) of you search for 'plastic screen cover Nintendo DS Lite' or 'plastic lens Nintendo DS Lite'. Although they are getting harder to find as the DS is quite old now, many other things would work equally as well - 1/32" polycarbonate sheet, an outer screen cover from some Blackberry phone models (like the Curve for example), etc.

I would NOT use brittle plastic, like from a CD jewel case, as that plastic scratches easily and cracks/shatters even easier. I would also not use plastic that is too thin, like the plastic used for retail 'clamshell' or 'blister' packages that many toys and items comes inside, because it won't protect the screen from pressure/cracking. Examples of what NOT to use:


Anyways, once you have obtained a suitable screen cover, you just insert the edge of a disposable razor blade into the LONG edge of the X3 screen cover, and PRY it using the X3's aluminum for leverage. The prying action is like what you would do when using a crowbar or removing a nail with the claw end of a hammer. You can also pre-warm the cover by gently heating the area with a hair dryer set on low (you won't damage the X3, but it will soften the adhesive & make it much easier to remove).



My screen cover came out with no damage to the cover or the X3.

There will be some adhesive residue left from the stock screen cover's double-sided tape. Clean off the residue using some Q-tips (cotton swabs) dampened with a drop of Goo Gone, Goof Off, Acetone, or nail polish remover (being extra careful not to drip any onto the OLED screen or down into anything electronic).

Cutting the new cover is easy. I laid the stock cover on top of the Nintendo cover, and cut along the edges of the Nintendo cover with sharp scissors using the stock cover as a guide. Make sure to round the corners like the stock screen, and test fit.

Once I was happy with the fitment, I glued the clear screen cover in place with a few drops of UV-activated epoxy (you can also use traditional epoxy). Do NOT use super glue, because it will release vapors as it cures that will leave a white film on the inside of the cover and actual screen.

I could have left it like this, but I went one step further and replicated the black surround of the stock screen by trimming a scrap of flat black vinyl sign-graphic material using an xacto knife. Just peel and stick the trimmed piece of vinyl onto the outside of the clear screen cover and you're done. You can certainly omit this step and it won't affect anything. You'll just be able to see your drops of glue, as well as some of the circuit board through the new clear lens. The vinyl trim just gives it a little more professional 'factory-finished' look. Whether or not you do it is up to you.

Here's the final result with vinyl trim piece:


Don't worry if you mess up somehow (the cutting or gluing), because the Nintendo screen cover is large enough to make (2) X3 screen covers with some room left over.

Now, what kind of difference does it make with the stock smoked vs new clear cover? You be the judge:



The comparison photos were taken indoors with manual F-Stop and aperture settings (so there was consistent exposure from photo to photo, and no interference with the camera's automatic settings). There was no retouching of the photos at all.

I've already tested this outdoors. On the brightest setting, the screen is very readable in everything but the most intense direct sunlight (like at the beach at noon on a sunny day with no clouds). As we all know, with the stock screen cover on the brightest setting, the screen is not readable at all (except in the shade, when it is BARELY readable).

The new clear cover is still a little hard to read outdoors when wearing really dark sunglasses, but that's true of any phone/laptop/MP3 screen (with the stock cover the screen could not be read at all while wearing sunglasses).

Seeing how in the comparison photo, the stock screen cover at the MAXIMUM brightness (16) is THE SAME BRIGHTNESS as the clear screen cover at the MINIMUM brightness (1), you'll start to get an idea of just how effective this mod is. If I had to estimate, I would say that the clear screen cover increases the effective brightness by at least 50%.

Another advantage of the mod is that because the screen cover is clear, you can turn down the screen brightness (especially indoors). This increases the battery life!

Total time from start to finish was 20 minutes (15 if you don't do the vinyl trim). Total cost is $3 for the Nintendo cover, plus free ($0) for a small 2" scrap piece of vinyl at any sign/graphics shop (or you could buy a larger piece on ebay for ~$1).

Enjoy,
- Slater
 
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