[catspaw]

Did you just Butcher a 1.5k HP to experiment with its drivers?
Now I know Im poor... .

 

[c61746961]

Earlier in the thread he made clear he ordered the drivers separately.

 

[selwin]

Just subscribed 

 

[catspaw]

Earlier in the thread he made clear he ordered the drivers separately.

Hm... Guess thats what happens when you dont read everything carefully .

 

[afganu008]

Did you go forward with this, have you made any other modifications in this project?
Thanks.

 

[InsanityOne]

  Did you go forward with this, have you made any other modifications in this project?
Thanks.

Yes, I am super curious about this as well! Such a neat project!
 
- InsanityOne 

 

[frank2908]

im designing new cup design, supposed to be in carbon fiber with 3d printed mould/tool. I dont have time yet to upload pics of the design. the recent prototype did not fit well together.

 

[Kaszanas]

I am honestly looking forward to see more of your work, as in some point of time I would love to try and do the same stuff.

 

[frank2908]

after a long time being away from this thread, but I have never stopped improving the design. The newest design takes me almost 5 months to fix some detail. The baffle would be made from 3d printed PLA Carbon fiber mix. THe cup & cup cover will be made from carbon fiber. I would 3d print the mould, then vacuum bagging them to produce the cup & cover. The cup ( with the ripple design) will be gloss, while the cover will be matt. I cannot render the cup in glossy CF, because you guys would not see the ripple effect.

Carbon fiber 3d printed hd800 prototype- with cover removed

Carbon fiber 3d printed hd800 prototype- drivers are more angled and moved further forward
 

Carbon fiber 3d printed hd800 prototype- baffle & driver view

Carbon fiber 3d printed hd800 prototype front side view

Carbon fiber 3d printed hd800 prototype - rear side view
I will use a Rean Tiny XLR connector

 

[frank2908]

Anyone here has any experience with moulding carbon fiber? I plan to use 3 layers for the cup (in blue) and cup cover (in carbon fiber render), expected thickness is 1-1.5mm, using 3k carbon fiber. Hopefully that would provide enough rigidity. The baffle supposed to be light and strong. I will add lightweight damping material such as Micropore, leather or alcantara. Will try to avoid Dynamat since it would anihilate my effort saving weight. My previous prototype weight around 500 gram. This potentially would weight as following:

1. 18gr for baffle
2. 16gr for carbon fiber cup
3. 7gr for cup cover
4. 2x Rean Tiny XLR connector.
5. 40gr for HD800 driver
6. ~100gr for headband assembly. However Im shaving the weight down using fostex t50rp headband and carbon fiber yoke

Total should be less than 300gr. 

 

[rikk009]

Wow...nice work!

 

[frank2908]

So far, I 3D printed the negative mould for the Carbon fiber cup
On the first try, I applied the epoxy by hand using 3 layers of CF, but I used quick to dry epoxy ( dry time 10 mins), then vacuum bagging them. The resulting cup were too uneven and ugly to post
Second try, I tried vaccum resin infusion. I mixed wrong ratio for epoxy and hardener, its been 1 wk and still not cured yet.Another issue is lots of air bubble. Reason is again quick drying time of epoxy, I cannot wait for 10 mins for all the air come to the surface and disappear from the mixing cup
After total failure, I decided to 3d Printed the parts, then only cover them with 1 layer of carbon:

3D printed headphones cup for HD800, note the flange for attaching the mini xlr connector

3D printed headphones cup for HD800, for the cup in the bottom, due to the angle of printing, it looks really nice. For the cover, the top part is almost horizontal, you can see the line for the outer skin clearly

3D printed headphones cup for HD800-side view

3D printed headphones cup for HD800
Unfortunately I was too unhappy with the carbon fiber parts to take any pic, Hopefully when I come back home after 2 months I can try again.
 

My resin infusion kit
 

Really messy table !!!

 

[InsanityOne]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

  So far, I 3D printed the negative mould for the Carbon fiber cup
On the first try, I applied the epoxy by hand using 3 layers of CF, but I used quick to dry epoxy ( dry time 10 mins), then vacuum bagging them. The resulting cup were too uneven and ugly to post
Second try, I tried vaccum resin infusion. I mixed wrong ratio for epoxy and hardener, its been 1 wk and still not cured yet.Another issue is lots of air bubble. Reason is again quick drying time of epoxy, I cannot wait for 10 mins for all the air come to the surface and disappear from the mixing cup
After total failure, I decided to 3d Printed the parts, then only cover them with 1 layer of carbon:




Unfortunately I was too unhappy with the carbon fiber parts to take any pic, Hopefully when I come back home after 2 months I can try again.
 

My resin infusion kit
 

Really messy table !!!

 

Personally I think that 3D-printed cup looks great! I never would have though to just 3D-print the cup and then cover it in carbon to achieve the desired look. I think the slight rough and very matte finish on the cup looks pretty sweet as well! Keep up the great work!
 
- InsanityOne 

 

[frank2908]

Just finished the design for the yoke. Pretty happy since it look a bit different from the popular hifiman or beyerdynamic or fostex yoke.

3D printed assembly with new yoke design, front side view

3D printed assembly with new yoke design, rear side view

 

[frank2908]

I got a PM asking for the guidance installing /fixing driver, but I thought posting here would be helpful to you all

The driver is attached to the headphones from this side using 4 screws. SInce I don't own an origigal HD800, I wouldn't know which screw type, but I guess your best try is to buy a muiltiple screw set and try your luck. Another thing to consider is many people here (including me) have tried the SBAF french mod recommended by Tyll from Innerfidelity. The method requires cutting a central hole and easy to damage your driver. Another method ( with a correct screw driver needed) is to remove those 4 screw, and completely remove the lowerpart ( which contain the protector screen) since no wire is connected to them. This way it's non damaging and totally reversible.

Last but not least, the wiring tap. Try to solder as quick as you can,sice the tap connected to a post surrounded by plastic. I had a bad experience soldering for too long and it melts the plastic and the voice coil wire disconnected from the post. After 2 days of crying (obviously TT ) I got enough bravery and open the bottom screen, solder the voice coil wire from the inside, and thank god it worked. 

 
Good luck if you have to get into this situation
Im sorry for not posting pictures of real driver , since I don't have them here with me
Frank