Hey guys, I wanted to share my fix for the seams. Sadly my warranty has been up for a while, so I was left to fix the issue myself. For anyone that doesn't know of the problem, the clear acrylic model is unusually prone to chipping/breaking at the seams for no reason at all except for, what I'm...

I'm not sure about the technicalities; I have used a Viablue T6, and it significantly degraded the sound. If you search my history, you'll even see a post made about it with some replies. As of now, I feel as long as I don't use a T6, I'll get maximum conductivity. You could, but it's...

I figured I'd chime in for anyone interested. I made mine by using a drill as a pseudo lathe, with some sandpapers, and drastically reducing the diameters. I've tried high end termination like the Viablue T6, but it makes a very thin crap sound. The thing about termination is the distance is so...

You're right, and I was wrong! I didn't know that got changed in win7; XP's cap included the vram, but not 7. Thanks for keeping me in check.

  Awesome, I like it better.  A little bit cleaner imo.

    What do you mean "Hiccups"?  Are you saying it stutters?  You probably just need to increase your buffer size in foobar if it's stuttering, because it's defaulted to like 1000ms if I remember right, and that shouldn't be a universal number as every system is different.  System specs have...

I just tried the various configurations again.  DH-2 and DH-1 are EXTREMELY close, while DH-3 is extremely different.  I re-enabled Electri-Q, and I won't take that off again.  I'm not sure what the parameters are for Electri-Q, but some songs aren't affected by it, while others are DRAMATICALLY...

  1. I'm personally using DH1.  I don't like screwing with the original recording, and refuse to use EQ or anything of that nature.  DH3 adds too much air, and recesses everything under the mids, which I don't like at all.  DH1 gives you a reference profile while still maintaining the integrity...

Just an update. Since the first cable I decided to tweak it a lot, and went with a solid copper. This was the result. Highly recommend this.... I spent an hour going back and fourth between the OEM cable and this one, and this sounds better in every single area. Best of all they just sound more...

Hey guys, I had a really hard time finding this stuff, and finally stumbled across it.  So I wanted to host it for anyone that wants it.  The credit goes to RPGWiZaRD here on Head-Fi, but the hosted files were removed for some reason.  Anyway, this is a great config, and as someone that avoids...

Well I always make a test-run with cat-5 wire to verify proper geometry.  I just used inexpensive termination (infact, the 2.5mm is from ratshack).  My final cable will probably be silver with high-end connectors, but if you're just wanting to try it to see how it sounds, then it should only...

Wait, do you mean between the thinner silver and the thicker copper?  If that's the case I'll get the silver to have a thinner and more flexible cable.

I've made hundreds of cables, hosted double-blind tests with non-audiophiles, and simply have done a lot of cables (I know some of you have done a lot more).  For one of those parties I made various cables from the same spool of wire.....but in many different geometries (from litz to french to...

Okay, so I've had a little project going, and I know this isn't DIY, but bare with me because this isn't actually DIY related question.   I've recabled my B&W P7s.  The first cable used four 24g copper wires (6 strand) in a litz braid.  I was so blown away about the increase in fidelity that I...

I ended up recabling my P7s.  I had a hard time looking for a connector to fit, so I modified one (this took about 2 minutes).  Anyway, for anyone that's thinking about making one, I am experiencing SIGNIFICANT transparency and soundstage improvement (twice the Soundstage).  Also, the bass seems...

Thanks! I should've updated this, but this is actually the plug I went with and it worked great!

The most "durable" IEM I've own would have to be my old CK10s.....they were extremely tough, and I sweat a lot with them (past tense).  BA will die at the first sign of sweat, but your ear canal doesn't sweat, and that's what the screens are there for (prevent stuff from going into other...

I agree wholeheartedly. In fact, my current favorite everyday use headphone is the P7. It is heavy on the bass, but it doesn't scale across the spectrum, nor is it even remotely muffled or congested. In the end it's what makes you want to put a pair on and have fun, and if that means listening...

The more reference quality they are, the more they "lack" in bass.  Headphones that give you that great hard hitting bass are always colored, inaccurate, and unnatural.  That isn't to say that reference (or an attempt at reference signatures) is good, or bass heavy headphones are bad, but that's...

I know that the topic is on cleaning your triple fis, and I've found that using hydrogen peroxide is the best way (using a very thin pipe cleaner), but if this seems to be a big issue with you, I would probably look into some sort of ear cleaning routine.  When I used my IEMs 10+ hours a day...

Either one of my two options will outlast you in the gym.  UEs only because they're heavily modifiable, but the ck10s are the smallest yet toughest IEM I've ever owned (especially the cable).  Any universal IEM will have perfect isolation with comply tips of your preference (either the sport or...

I know your budget is ~$150, but I pretty much listen to only electronic. I bought many iems and portables in the >$200 range, and if I could do it all over I'd get some used triple fis or some ck10s.... Those are the best I've ever found for the genre, and going significantly more in price I...

Yeah.  I'm a believer in some cables sound tiers better than others... I've even hosted some double-blind tests with people that know nothing about audio stuff.  I've chalked it up to cable geometry over cable specifics (litz braid vs french vs twist sound different even with the same wire). ...