[Orpheus]

Quote:

I need a balanced output amp first. I know what I want, but I have to find someone to build it for me. It must go into a standard rack mount case. This will be another thread, I think.

oh hell yeah.... rackmounted amps would be much more convenient for me. let me know if someone ever builds one for ya'. hmm.... rackmounted gilmore.... that would be nice.

 

[wallijonn]

you just know that I'm proud of you, don't you?

why didn't you do the same thing to the DT880s? (you kept the crossover cable intact).

and of course i have to ask why you didn't make a 4 pin XLR connector at the end. then you could use it for the SAC, dual monoblocks, etc.) I unsoldered the K1000 extension cable female connector and fsoldered in 6" of 16 guage copper speaker wire to a Neutrik 1/4" stereo plug.

I knwo that you put a 1/4" plug at the end of your K1000 extension cable. unfortunately you kept the original wires, which I feel are pure, unadulterated crap. Some nice pure copper speaker wires could serve a much better function.

I used the Mogami Quad cable for the DT880. The crossover wires are a pain to work with, they take too much room within the right earcup. I had Jan send me another wire cup for the right side, and will be changing the cable to a "Y", hopefully today. and you know that I did the DT931 with separate wires to a 4 pin XLR.

so when can i see and hear those babies?

(along with the A1000).

speaking of which, I'm beginning to worry about you. CD3000, A1000, W100.... don't have enough headphones?

did you update your profile?

 

[gerG]

Hi wal. Thanks!

Oops, quite right, my profile needs dusting off.

A year or so ago I was thinking about going to xlr connectors on all of my cans. Now I have gone the other way, and I will probably change the K1000 plug over to a 1/4" so that I can use it with different amps. I haven't used that extension cable for over a year, other than quick experiments (like plugging mat into the Corda with the K1000s). Fortunately I keep the amp within reach, so I don't need an extension. Some day I may get really brave (or drunk) and change out the K1000 cable. Not without some spare parts available, though. Remember that my SAC has both 1/4" and xlr-4 sockets. It also makes enough power to melt low impedance cans. I have to be careful where I point that thing.

I am still hell bent for xlr on my signal cables. I just made a pair of 15 ft fully balanced cables to go from the dbx to the SAC (which has balanced inputs). It was such a pleasure to hook up something that doesn't have rca connectors at either end.

I didn't do a Y on the DT880 because I hadn't figured out a split technique that met my needs. I was also cramped for time, and I wanted that damned coiled cord off there stat. It was only a 1 hour mod, and I knew that I would be back in there anyway. I think that going full Y on the DT880 is the right approach. Dragging the crossover over the top is just not worth the trouble for me. My 880s still have the original crossover in them. That will change when I get a chance. I already have the new cable

Orpheus, a balanced Gilmore is the current leading candidate. I want balanced inputs, balanced outputs, and I want power meters, by god! It would also be a nice change to have all of the switches on the front of the unit. I really love the sound of my Max, but the shape just doesn't fit in with the rest of my gear. I can (and do) live without crossfeed.


gerG

 

[wallijonn]

A100Ti AND the Phillips 963SA, too? person.

 

[Orpheus]

heh he......... right now i am thinking of buying one those pro headphone amps with 4 separate heapdhone outs cause i want to setup my living room as a recording room. hmm.... and if i could fit 4 gilmores in 1 rackmount case............... that would only cost me $1500-2000 huh? heh he.................. guess not. even 4 meta42's will still cost me $500-1000. guess i will have to settle for one of those furman types.

oh, and wallijonn, ....Mogami's great, but VERY overpriced. i assume the cable you used ran about $0.70/ft? the equivalent Canare is about $0.2-0.3/ft. and not only that, i think Mogami uses spiral shielding, which is not as good as the braided or foil shields used in other cables. i used to buy Mogami... but i think it's a rip off. check out Belden or Canare... their cables perform better for less money. both Canare and Mogami are Japanese... so you're getting about the same quality. the Mogami is very slightly more flexible, but this is a compromise of performance.... and doesn't really matter for hi-fi anyway.

 

[D-EJ915]

What guage wire does that cable use??

 

[wallijonn]

Dean,

believe me when i say that the twisted shield is a GOOD thing. you ever have to take an exacto blade to a braid, so that you can untangle it?

I wanted to use some of the Belden. but it has to be bought in 100 foot rolls (for a good price). Merkertek doesn't carry good Belden.

Your prices are correct - but since i bought a few different ones, it all came out about 50 cents a foot. you're right about the Mogami clear coverings on the wires, though, they are kinda stiff. but I compared electrical performance against the Canare (and a few others) and preferred the Mogami. I don't know if I like foil shielding, though. I know that one of my Mogami cables have under 23 pf per foot. (it might be 17 pf / ft). The Canare doesn't really say what the total capacitance is. I assume that the total capacitance is when it is used in parallel, as i can't see 46pf/ft/strand. they must have meant 23pf/ft/strand.

"doesn't really matter for hi-fi anyway" huh? ever see the microphonics ratings?

 

[Orpheus]

if you mean "microphonics" as in electrical energy created due to handling, no... i cannot see this mattering for interconnects.... but yes, it would be beneficial for headphone cables. but i think all the mogami/beleden/canare all have good fillers.... they're all pretty good in that respect, except for the Canare foil shields, which Canare says specifically is only made for fixed installations.

what i meant about not mattering for hi-fi was the issue of cable flexibility. Canare/Belden/Mogami produce mostly for the professional community, and they like flexible cables. that's why. so i'm saying in order to make super flexible cables, mogami compromises on other details.
Quote:

believe me when i say that the twisted shield is a GOOD thing. you ever have to take an exacto blade to a braid, so that you can untangle it?

well, i didn't say the braided shield is convenient. yes, it's very hard to untangle that crap (don't use the exacto blade though.... try to get a small pen-shaped pick. that's what i use.) but spiral shield is the worst performer as a shield. i wouldn't use anything with a spiral shield unless if it's double sprial shielded like Cardas. the best of course are the foil or braided shields... foil is most convenient since the foil strips with the outer jacket and you have a bare drain wire to solder. but it's not appropriate for cables that move around like microphone cable or headphone cables. as interconnects though, they are pretty nice.... good coverage and very easy to assemble.

i never compare the electrical properties of these cables though... i did once talk to the Belden rep at CES, and he mentioned that Mogami or Canare mis-represents their numbers on the spec sheets... but of course this is Belden talking. so you can't trust them either. the point is, don't pay too much attention to these numbers.... what IS important is the wiring configuration (star quad), the tightness of the windings (all of them are pretty close), and the type of shield (braid and foil have best coverage), the fillers used, and physical stuff like flexibility and thickness if it matters to you.

 

[gerG]

A tip on the braided shield, get a dental tool that looks like the one in the picture. I can't remember if it is a poker, jabber, or explorer, but it is the dogs danglies for unbraiding shielding. You can find the tools at electrical supply shops, or even hardware stores. They aren't real dental tools, so no diy fillings, ok?


gerG