[gerG]

Whoa, I figured this one would sink and die quick. Thanks for the encouragement, guys.

Uncledan, I used Canare Star Quad cable (L-4E6S). Same stuff I used in the Barney cables. Very pliable, rugged, and great electrical properties. It is pro grade mic cable, intended for stage use. That means proof against everything from high heels to hiking boots!

elnero, yes, I have experimented with the stuffing. Keep in mind that the dimensions inside headphones are 1/10th that of speakers, or less. The absorptive materials affect frequencies 10 times that (and higher) of speakers. Bass response is even more complicated because we are dealing with 2 cavities instead of 1, and your ear is inside one of them. Nevertheless, I am learning what to change to make to impact bass response and soundstage. I will post findings when I get a handle on it.

The phatpad mod can be found here:
Phatpad

jpelg, very timely question. I am trying to get the interface kit so that I can run digital output from a transport straight into the 8024. Output will go into the Max. If it sounds good, it will become my "transportable" system. My immovable system has the dbx driverack eq at it's heart, and feeds the SAC via a fully balanced cable. I love pro gear.

radrd, any cable would work, but it may not meet my mechanical requirements. I think that the Outlaw cable is divine, but unacceptable for can-cord.

Ian, if you cut into K-1000 and change the cable I will be in awe (or shock, depending on how it turns out). That is not an easy mod (I have already peeked in there).

d-ej915, it is not photogenic, but it is a pleasure to use. Neutrik hardware is strictly pro grade, and it works brilliantly.

minya, my thanks again for providing the "volunteer" for my mad experiments. As I mentioned, I am not crazy about the sound. The AT voicing grates on my ears (especially the W2002). The surprising exception has been the A1000. This is not a problem, because they will sound nothing like stock by the time I get done with them. Either that or I will get bored with the experiments and just equalize them.

markl, I named the cable above. Markertek carries it, and the cost is about $0.35 per foot. Other cables will work, but I put a high priority on flexibility. The leader sections that attach to the cups are almost as flexible as stock HD600 cable. This is a problem area with most aftermarket cables. These are like putting on well broken in blue jeans. The only problem is that the big diameter to the cups gives a bit of a stethoscope look. As always, I just stay away from mirrors.

As a general comment, this turned out to be a more advanced modification than I had anticipated. I can share some tricks if anyone wants to try it, but you need to be good with tools (you might notice dental tools in a couple of the pictures).

As for sound, night and day difference. Stock cable = no sound. Steth cable = sound. Further improvements will be minor in comparison

gerG

 

[gerG]

I appologize for the size of that document, guys. I compressed it at a lower res, but it was even larger! I will hunt for a better solution. otoh, you ought to see it with the full res photos. That pig is about 10 meg.


gerG

 

[radrd]

Quote:

radrd, any cable would work, but it may not meet my mechanical requirements. I think that the Outlaw cable is divine, but unacceptable for can-cord.

Outlaw cable? I was talking about the Equinox cable that people use on the HD600. I assume there is a way you could fit it to the W100. Since it works on the HD600, I assume it would be flexible enough. I wasn't talking about Outlaw interconnects if that's what you were thinking. Or, is "Outlaw" a name for the Equinox cable that I'm not aware of?

 

[gerG]

Sorry, I was just using the Outlaw as an example of a cable that I think has better electrical properties, but unacceptable mechanical properties. I haven't cut into an equinox cable. I haven't even seen one for a year, so the mechanical properties have faded to distant memory.

A key attribute of the Canare cable are the internal reinforcement strings. I divided them in half and split them between the two sides. No worries about shock loads. That is what started this project, after all.


gerG

 

[Mr.PD]

Hey gerG, that is a well written and beautifully photographed article you wrote there. I thoroughly enjoyed it.
I am not clear on how you handled strain relief at the driver end of the cable. Would you mind explaining that again?

Did you remove the wire that ran from the left to right side? Or just leave it in there unused?

 

[purk]

gerG,

Will the Canare cable transmit the signal better than the 6N-OFC cable of the W100? I'm just wondering. What is the purity of Canare cable?


Thank,
Purk

Awesome DIY by the way.

 

[Tomcat]

gerG,

This looked like open heart surgery to me, gut-wrenching. I had to avert my eyes a couple of times...

I am glad it worked, though.

 

[Guyferd]

how much improvement is there in sound?

 

[gerG]

Hi Mr PD. I have a different element in there for each of the 3 degrees of freedom of motion. For bending at the interface, I just added a shrink tube sleeve. This was a very tight fit going into the frame, but persistence got it in place. When I pull the cable sideways I get a nice arc with no kinks, so it is about right. For twisting I used a bend in the cable and a zip tie on the cage. For tensile (pulling) I used a tight zip tie just inside the frame to collapse the insulation and pull the inner fibers/wires together. The second tie point reinforces this. I am sure that the cable could be yanked out by a very persistent person, but not likely in normal use. I picked them up by the cable and swung them around over my head just to illustrate the integrity of the joint. I would not do that with any stock cable.

The crossover wire had to come out completely. I can't explain it, but leaving a scrap piece burried in there buggs me. I took things down far enough to get every scrap of the old wires out. Obsessive compulsive? You bet!

I haven't compared the electrical properties of the various cables. I tend to believe that cable made for microphones is probably overkill for headphones. The heavier gage wires are important because headphone cables actually carry current, as opposed to signal cables. Beyond that I don't worry about it because cable effects are still in my subtle change category. This is relative to the controllable and positive changes that I can make with an equalizer as well as the dramatic (but not always positive) changes that I can make by adjusting some of the physical features inside the cans.

Some day I hope to build cable swapping switches for my Sens. Then I can sit down with several cables and educate my ears. Anybody got a busted sen cable to get rid of?

Again, the subject mod would be possible with just about any cable you care to choose. Comfort and ruggedness will be the tradeoff. Also there is not a lot of material left on the mag frame, so larger diameter in the leads would be unacceptable.

Tomcat, lol. Don't worry, this was entirely bloodless surgery. Not that there weren't opportunities! Why the hell do x-axto knives fall blade first when they roll off the workbench? I learned to put a zip tie on the handle to keep them from giving me a free vasectomy, but occasionally a knife still goes ball-listic. Fortunately I have developed good reflexes.


gerG

 

[Mr.PD]

Thanks gerG, very ingenious with the bend and zip tie to counteract twisting.

I would have removed the crossover cable also.

After reading your exploits, I may have to rewire my Beyer DT250s.

The only phones I have rewired are my KSC50s, the small space to work with was a pain, but all went well.

 

[Orpheus]

damn gerG.... that was insane. pretty trick!

Quote:

What is the purity of Canare cable?

--try calling the Canare reps on this one. i did for another argument. they implied that was the most absurd question they have ever heard. but anyway, i can tell you this.... Canare cable's used in many pro studios in the world.... along with Belden and Mogami. great value. it's the only cable i use personally....

 

[PeterR]

Quote:

. I picked them up by the cable and swung them around over my head just

Damn, why isn't there a photo of that? Hell, it's hilarious enough in my imagination...

 

[Orpheus]

you know, i was thinking.... since you rewired it, you could have left the cables separate and not y-cabled them. then you can run them off two monoblock amps like that headroom blockhead. dunno if it makes any difference though. or, perhaps... take two of those meta42's and make you own pair of monoblock headphone amps.

 

[carlo]

,

Very cool gerG, looking forward to phase 2 of your project.

 

[gerG]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the Canare cable is endorsed by Orpheus, and that is good enough for me!

PeterR, I was in a particularly silly mood when I tried the "helicopter test". There may have been tequila involved, but I reserve the right to deny it! Anyway, swinging those cans indoors while trying to take a picture in the mirror was just asking for a catastrophe (I know my limits, tequila or not).

Orpheus, there are fully balanced cans in my future, and I am not afraid to use dual cables. I need a balanced output amp first. I know what I want, but I have to find someone to build it for me. It must go into a standard rack mount case. This will be another thread, I think.

Thanks Carlo. I am very humbly flattered by all of the kind remarks in this thread. I only posted the pics to help out the other diy afflicted members. Phase 2 is in the works. I need to track down some materials and get a couple of parts fabricated to continue the experiments. I have almost worn out the pads from r&r (removal/reinstall) so many times.


gerG