[LosNir]

No those are just the usual import taxes. I pay when the total cost (items + s&h) is higher than $50. 
 
That gives me a $15-$20 for shipping which is ok.

 

[MikoLayer]

 
[size=medium]

finally managed to fix mine, did all the mods suggested (electrolytic + vishay caps, bypassing the output filtering section). 
 
not sure if the sound would change once electrolytic caps are burnt in. coming from a USB monica, things sound clearer and airier, but a tad brightish and maybe a bit less sweet. will have to go back and forth to be sure though, maybe I need to get back in the tuberolling loop again...
 
still need to figure out what to do with the lid on the enclosure, it definitely has to be cut open in the middle to allow the mundorfs to fit now that they sit a bit higher with the little caps underneath them.
​

[/size]

 

[newbee123]

Can some one direct me what parts I need to mods on Ver3.1?

 

[marcelnl]

probably better if you can tell anyone what the differences are wr to V 2.5 and 3.0....anything else (not sorted w 3.1) is likely to be found here in this thread.
Happy reading
 

 

[newbee123]

Based on Kevin information, the only different is the PS
other than that is the same

 

[MikoLayer]

I was a bit skeptical at first, but olimex usb-iso really tamed the edginess in the upper-mids! Now I can listen to it for extended periods without much fatigue. Really need to put the lid back on though, after a few hours of continuous operation there is some serious distortion in both channels most likely due to the TDA1543s overheating. Let the cool cool down for a few minutes, and the distortion is gone. I wouldn't wanna risk damaging the chips though, won't be using it until the lid is back on.

 

[marcelnl]

are you using it without the bottom part too? In that case you are indeed overheating the poor thingy....
 
I leave mine on 24/7 without any thermal issues, yet with the bottom in situ and the lid unscrewed.
 

 

[marcelnl]

Quote:

Based on Kevin information, the only different is the PS
other than that is the same

then I'd read this thread starting at the end, as there are some mods that take a lot of time yet do little and there are some that make a large difference, and there is the practical issue of doability....
Some are dead easy, some slightly more difficult...depending on your soldering skills tinkering around too much may be putting the device at risk...all depending on your experience and skill level.
 
Dir 9001 mod
replace output cap, input cap
replace PSU caps around TDA 5143
 
would be some good points to start, but do read the thread....
 
Not sure what the difference in PSU is, yet improvements there usually also do a lot.
 
 

 

[MikoLayer]

the bottom plate is in place, secured with all the proper screws and all.. Not sure if I put enough TIM between it and the 1543s though, I had to muster out whatever I had left from previous computer builds (had to have what was already on it wiped clean to reseat the chips).
Distortion doesn't develop in the first few hours, only when I leave it on overnite (thought it would be a good idea to burn it in, oh well)

 

[marcelnl]

hmm sounds indeed as if it is overheating, maybe just a tad too much Transient Inter Modulation ...huh, naaaah you don't wanyt more of that
you do not need that much of the stuff but this sounds like a heat issue, is your Power Supply at spec Voltage ?
 
Thermal grease is sold in probably every computer shop, elevating the DAC case on a couple of isolation feet (the real stuff, can also be made DIY) further helps cooling down. Mine sits on a tube amp but does not suffer from heat buildup (though the 'beast' uses approx 400 Watt for its whopping 2* 0.8 Watt output (guess I do not qualify as a tree hugger)
 
Burn in ..yeesssss very important, ths bugger takes a good 200 hours and somehow a DAC chip seems to improve ever so slightly ever after.
 
 

 

[Yasioo]

Hi guys i have a litle problem with my TeraDak (sry for my eng).
 
I do the DIR9001 mod  only for my teradak, and when im turning it on I hear bruuum in my speakres also the power led lights slowly. But when the bruum stops and the led is fully lighted is ok (for the USB).
When i connect a optical cable and turn my CD player the dac not respond (optical input is not working). But when I cancel this mod everything is ok.
 
Please help
 
P.s (this mod is good for me becouse there is more dynamics and bass) what should change in my teradak to make this ok with this mod, meaby change some caps? or something? becouse I do only this mod in my teradak.
 
Thanks.

 

[marcelnl]

without knowing what is exactly wrong I can only advise you to check the tiny feet of the DIR chip with a good magnifying glass or such in order to see if there is a speck of solder somewhere whe it should not be or that you did not realle connect the two leads or did not lift them from the circuit board....you do not need to change anything else in the DAC, the DIR mod does need anything else than lifting the feet connecting them together and to the +5V.
 
 

 

[Yasioo]

I do like you Said ... there is a 3.3v not 5v, I  connect those 2 pins (13,14) from DIR9001 .... and again i hear a bruum in my speakrs and optical is not working but when bruum stop the dac is plaing very good from USB (not optical)   (. Meaby there is some problem with power or something, the brum sounds like some Cap is charging,)

 

[marcelnl]

yeah you're right  3.3 V....did you check pin 13 and 14 are in no way connected to ground anymore ? the tiniest sliver of connection there could explain the slow charging...
Almost sounds as if there is a broken wire or indeed a cap slowly charging but you say it is gone when you undo the DIR mod....
What seems weird is that your optical is not working at all....think you better contact Teradak...though you could try replacing C7 and C8 (both 180uF) as these are the supply cap for DIR9001, with a scope you could check the supply for ripple etc...
 
How exactly did you do the DIR mod, did you lift the pins 13 and 14 and use a piece of wire to connect them to 3.3V?
 

 

[Yasioo]

Yes I connect to the 3.3v.
 
the optical is working when I cancel the mod
 
So I have a question, the 13 ,14 pin from DIR9001 I must pull them up? and connect by the wire to the 3.3v or just don't pull them up and connect???? the pin 13,14 must be connected to the PCB?
 
ps. I don't pull them up there are connected to the pcb and by the wire to the 3.3v, and then is that problem with te brum in speakers.