[Dawls]

   
That's not grease, that's your music leaking out! Lucky you taped it up!

I

I used audiophile tape to seal the leak. It's made from special heat and vibration absorbing material, with a glue made by nasa that reflects radiation. It only costs 160$ + shipping, they also sell it in different colours so it will match your 2000$ gold cable.

 

[olegausany]

Quick question. I heard that new cheaper T1 sound differently from original version so my question is how can I identify which is which, when they started selling new revision? The reason I am asking is that I can get one from the trade but want to make sure I have right one
Thanks

 

[Loquah]

Quick question. I heard that new cheaper T1 sound differently from original version so my question is how can I identify which is which, when they started selling new revision? The reason I am asking is that I can get one from the trade but want to make sure I have right one
Thanks

 
There may have been some slight variation in the earliest models, but since then there's no substantiated report of significant changes that I've found. One factor which seems to be a good indicator is the headband, but I can't find any clear pics of what the difference was - I just know that Beyer changed it somewhere in the early stages (hope I'm recalling this correctly).
 
Best bet might be to ask for the serial number of the ones you're trading for and share it here to see where in the T1 line it sits. For reference, mine are about 2 years old and are SN: 4222. Anything around there (or later) will be fine. Something much, much lower might need confirmation to ease your concerns

 

[MrEleventy]

I can confirm the different headbands. I'm on my second set of T1s, first set were in the 3xxxs is leather and the band going across the middle is ribbon like. My current set is in the 16xxxs and is the velour like material with a leather like band. I didn't notice a difference in terms of sound but that was just going off of memory. I remember the older set clamping my nogging more. Those were the only differences that I can recall.

 

[pdrm360]

 
I'm going to get new cable and headband from Beyerdynamic soon. It's not very expensive either

 
Please let me know when you get the info from Beyer.

 

[groovyd]

 
I'm going to get new cable and headband from Beyerdynamic soon. It's not very expensive either

I have an unused original T1 cable for sale if interested pm me.  I recabled and so have the original.

 

[olegausany]

Just found out that I can get headphones with leather headband purchased in June 2013 with serial number 130XX. Are they OK?

 

[Loquah]

Just found out that I can get headphones with leather headband purchased in June 2013 with serial number 130XX. Are they OK?

 
Yes, 130XX is way after any changes

 

[Dawls]

   
Please let me know when you get the info from Beyer.

The cable costs 58.95 EUR, Headband 54.15 EUR and they take 30 EUR for the work. That's 143.1 EUR + tax

 

[Dawls]

 
I have an unused original T1 cable for sale if interested pm me.  I recabled and so have the original.

How much are you selling it for?

 

[wisemanja]

  I'm sure this has been discussed in this thread, but I couldn't quickly find the answer with a search. 
 
I'd like to reterminate my stock T1 cable with a 4 pin balanced XLR that's directly compatible with the screw-on 1/4" connector on the stock cable.  Does anyone have a link?
 
While I'm at it, I'd like to either buy or make a 4pin XLR to 1/4" SE adapter to use my re-terminated with SE amps.  Any links?
 
 
Thanks

Just a couple of thoughts on this:
 
1) When you remove the 1/4"SE from the existing cable, don't cut it at the plug. Cut it so it has about 12 inches of cable left attached to it. Then attach a 4pin female XLR to the other end to form an adapter. Then attach a 4pin male XLR to the main cable from the phones for direct connect in balanced mode. The main cable on the T1s is long enough that losing 12 inches is no big deal, you don't have to reterminate the SE connector, you don't have to buy any other cable, and the main cable and the adapter cable match.
 
2) I'm pretty sure that the stock cable used on the T1s is Litz cable. soldering it requires special tools and knowledge (e.g., a solder pot or extremely hot iron, correct flux, etc.). If you have not worked with Litz wire type cables before, it may be worth paying someone with the knowledge to do it for you. 
 
3) Connecting the ground (shield) through the XLR case is not necessary and in some cases may degrade the sound slightly.
 
4) Using a 4 pin XLR for headphones (i.e., on the output) is not a typical application of the 4 pin XLR so "standards" vary.  My suspicion is that finding a mass-produced 4 pin XLR to SE adapter will be rare. Wire the 4 pin male XLR to the headphone cabls appropriately for the amp you are using, and then adjust the adapter wiring to suit.
 
-Jeff

 

[BlakeT]

^ that's exactly what I just did with my TH900's.....  

 

[Chodi]

  Just a couple of thoughts on this:
 
 
 
2) I'm pretty sure that the stock cable used on the T1s is Litz cable. soldering it requires special tools and knowledge (e.g., a solder pot or extremely hot iron, correct flux, etc.). If you have not worked with Litz wire type cables before, it may be worth paying someone with the knowledge to do it for you. 
 
 

I re-terminated my T1's months ago using a standard 4 pin XLR. I used a standard soldering iron and normal solder. It worked just fine and has been working ever since, The solder flowed just as you would expect. I do not think there is anything special about the requirements to solder this mod. The entire thing took five minutes. In my experience the T1's benefit a lot from this mod if you have a fully balanced system.

 

[BobJS]

  Just a couple of thoughts on this:
 
1) When you remove the 1/4"SE from the existing cable, don't cut it at the plug. Cut it so it has about 12 inches of cable left attached to it. Then attach a 4pin female XLR to the other end to form an adapter. Then attach a 4pin male XLR to the main cable from the phones for direct connect in balanced mode. The main cable on the T1s is long enough that losing 12 inches is no big deal, you don't have to reterminate the SE connector, you don't have to buy any other cable, and the main cable and the adapter cable match.
 
2) I'm pretty sure that the stock cable used on the T1s is Litz cable. soldering it requires special tools and knowledge (e.g., a solder pot or extremely hot iron, correct flux, etc.). If you have not worked with Litz wire type cables before, it may be worth paying someone with the knowledge to do it for you. 
 
3) Connecting the ground (shield) through the XLR case is not necessary and in some cases may degrade the sound slightly.
 
4) Using a 4 pin XLR for headphones (i.e., on the output) is not a typical application of the 4 pin XLR so "standards" vary.  My suspicion is that finding a mass-produced 4 pin XLR to SE adapter will be rare. Wire the 4 pin male XLR to the headphone cabls appropriately for the amp you are using, and then adjust the adapter wiring to suit.
 
-Jeff

 
Thanks,
 
Yeah, I've already done this, though I used an aftermarket cable on my HE-500s  to make the balanced-to-SE adapter.  All my high end phones are now 4 pin XLR terminated, with a SE-adapter to use with all.

 

[plakat]

  The T1 sounds great with the HiFi-M8, I'm very impressed. 

 
I can second that, very nice combination I happily used on vacation.
 

  This is how my T1 looks after years of daily hard use
 

 
Any physical stress on the cable (pets, running over with a chair etc.)? Sommer cable is of good quality I'd say, so I'm wondering how that came...
 

   
That's not grease, that's your music leaking out! Lucky you taped it up!

 
It might even be toxic... Death Metal anyone?