[thatBeatsguy]

Hey guys,
Last night I was able to have a listen to the real Beats Pro in a more proper environment (and by proper I mean quiet). I have to say, these new ones (post-Monster) hit really, really hard, and dig deep -- something I didn't find in my old fake pair. Looks like I was really missing out in something sound-wise.

After a bunch of fiddling with the EQ (and an accidental blasting at full volume), I managed to get the fake Pros to a similar level to the real ones (sub-bass only; I'm not much of a mid bass fan). But the question is: how can I mod these fakes to do that without EQ? Listening to the real pair left me wanting more bass, and I didn't find that in my pair. I tried opening them up, but I don't think I'm able to do anything with it. Any advice?

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

Hey guys,
Last night I was able to have a listen to the real Beats Pro in a more proper environment (and by proper I mean quiet). I have to say, these new ones (post-Monster) hit really, really hard, and dig deep -- something I didn't find in my old fake pair. Looks like I was really missing out in something sound-wise.

After a bunch of fiddling with the EQ (and an accidental blasting at full volume), I managed to get the fake Pros to a similar level to the real ones (sub-bass only; I'm not much of a mid bass fan). But the question is: how can I mod these fakes to do that without EQ? Listening to the real pair left me wanting more bass, and I didn't find that in my pair. I tried opening them up, but I don't think I'm able to do anything with it. Any advice?

 
 

 

 
 

 
 
Just removing pads ,baffle and exposing the rear of the driver is all you have to pay attention to. 
 
 
Do that. Take a pic and compare to the one in the screen grab and post here. 
 
I can help....if impact is what you want. 
The main diff in graphs between fakes and real pro's is sub 40Hz (that;s a big deal though as the fakes measured almost no sub-bass)

 

[thatBeatsguy]

Alright then. Sorry if the pic is of low quality, I haven't been able to get access to my computer since we packed the monitor away, so the iPad will have to do. So far, I don't see any glaring differences, except that there isn't any paper on the back.



The other cup is the same thing, so I didn't really bother to take a picture of that. I've opened these up a few times before, so yeah.

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

Alright then. Sorry if the pic is of low quality, I haven't been able to get access to my computer since we packed the monitor away, so the iPad will have to do. So far, I don't see any glaring differences, except that there isn't any paper on the back.



The other cup is the same thing, so I didn't really bother to take a picture of that. I've opened these up a few times before, so yeah.

If you have a pen light/ flashlight try and put it under that magnet/backplate hole and look at the face of the diaphragm...any light coming through? Or is it clearly see through from base to diaphragm bubble?
 
Remember everything can be undone as easily as it is done. 
 
1Hz is an extension ,retraction and return to start (simply put)
A 45Hz note is this happening 45 times in a second.
 
That is slow. That's why is is visually perceptible and it also holds/forces the driver/diaphragm out to positions beyond higher notes hyper vibrating 2000 times a second.
Ventilation is important. Balanced.
 
I have 5 hours of classes coming in 15 minutes so I'll be offline but back in 5/6 hours.
Leave everything safe and out of the way. We can make these hit noticeably harder

 

[thatBeatsguy]

If you have a pen light/ flashlight try and put it under that magnet/backplate hole and look at the face of the diaphragm...any light coming through? Or is it clearly see through from base to diaphragm bubble?

Remember everything can be undone as easily as it is done. 

1Hz is an extension ,retraction and return to start (simply put)
A 45Hz note is this happening 45 times in a second.

That is slow. That's why is is visually perceptible and it also holds/forces the driver/diaphragm out to positions beyond higher notes hyper vibrating 2000 times a second.
Ventilation is important. Balanced.

I have 5 hours of classes coming in 15 minutes so I'll be offline but back in 5/6 hours.
Leave everything safe and out of the way. We can make these hit noticeably harder

Yeah, light went through the diaphragm when I put some light through it. But what do you mean by it being "see through from base to the diaphragm bubble? I got to see the lens of my phone's camera when I put the phone under it. Is that a bad thing?

Also, thanks for the help so far. I really appreciate it.

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

O.K. so clearly the diaphragm is being vented from that pole piece.  You can see through the driver from one end to the other.
 
 
 
The problem is the one single vent is acting like a vacuum on high power and affecting the rear surface of the diaphragm.
 
If you hold a light on one side of the driver assembly you should see the holes around the driver which are now covered.
If the circuit is at 6pm you wanna identify the holes at 9pm and 3pm...directly across from each other
 
 
 

 
Your driver is not identical but has a larger venting.
I'd cover the hole on the magnet/backingplate and poke 3 holes in it with a pin/thumbtack. Your allowing it to breath but forcing the issue to the two holes opened at 3pm and 9pm
I'm gonna assume you have steady hands and are not drunk.
Gently open the 2 holes. open them fully. Do not let anything fall into the holes.
 
Your creating a better vented diaphragm and taking the vacuum away which limits amp headroom in every case I have done which is 4 different cans now. The 4 have better bass and all eat more amp.

 

[NewWaveAudio]

Hawaiibadboy What do you think of the Razer Krakens? Hardest hitting cans I've had. I would do the bass test with them, but I lost my amp.

 

[thatBeatsguy]

O.K. so clearly the diaphragm is being vented from that pole piece.  You can see through the driver from one end to the other.

The problem is the one single vent is acting like a vacuum on high power and affecting the rear surface of the diaphragm.

If you hold a light on one side of the driver assembly you should see the holes around the driver which are now covered.
If the circuit is at 6pm you wanna identify the holes at 9pm and 3pm...directly across from each other






Your driver is not identical but has a larger venting.
I'd cover the hole on the magnet/backingplate and poke 3 holes in it with a pin/thumbtack. Your allowing it to breath but forcing the issue to the two holes opened at 3pm and 9pm
I'm gonna assume you have steady hands and are not drunk.
Gently open the 2 holes. open them fully. Do not let anything fall into the holes.

Your creating a better vented diaphragm and taking the vacuum away which limits amp headroom in every case I have done which is 4 different cans now. The 4 have better bass and all eat more amp.

Sorry for the rather late reply, but I did exactly as you said. I'm not sure how large the holes on the magnet are supposed to be, though, so I made them a little larger (probably about .7mm each). Also, thanks for the detailed instructions. They were really easy to follow. Now to test them...

But what do you think about this? Hope I didn't screw anything up. XD

 

[NewWaveAudio]

Took the pads off to see if my can's driver is similar. And turns out it doesn't have screws

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

Sorry for the rather late reply, but I did exactly as you said. I'm not sure how large the holes on the magnet are supposed to be, though, so I made them a little larger (probably about .7mm each). Also, thanks for the detailed instructions. They were really easy to follow. Now to test them...

But what do you think about this? Hope I didn't screw anything up. XD

 
That looks good/safe.
 
We are trying to avoid "muddy" The combined ventilation area is slightly less but spread out and the 2 new holes are closer to the diaphragm. 

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

Took the pads off to see if my can's driver is similar. And turns out it doesn't have screws

 
Man...no idea.
Better not try something that might result in broken cans.

 

[thatBeatsguy]

Took the pads off to see if my can's driver is similar. And turns out it doesn't have screws

Actually, it does. Look behind that round plate. It's really hard to access, though. I doubt most regular screwdrivers are able to reach that. You'd need an L-shaped one.

That looks good/safe.

We are trying to avoid "muddy" The combined ventilation area is slightly less but spread out and the 2 new holes are closer to the diaphragm. 

Thanks! This is pretty much my first step into DIY, so not screwing up the first time is a big YAY for me.

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

Actually, it does. Look behind that round plate. It's really hard to access, though. I doubt most regular screwdrivers are able to reach that. You'd need an L-shaped one.
Thanks! This is pretty much my first step into DIY, so not screwing up the first time is a big YAY for me.

Cool.
Move slow.
Don't stress.
Move slow
Remember everything is reversible.
Stay slow.

 

[NewWaveAudio]

Actually, it does. Look behind that round plate. It's really hard to access, though. I doubt most regular screwdrivers are able to reach that. You'd need an L-shaped one.
Thanks! This is pretty much my first step into DIY, so not screwing up the first time is a big YAY for me.

It's actually underneath the black tape. Don't want to tamper with it. Might void my warranty.

 

[DisCHORDDubstep]

Cool.
Move slow.
Don't stress.
Move slow
Remember everything is reversible.
Stay slow.

unless you break the wires or snap the headband...