The cheapskate - a perfect desktop beginner's amp ?
Mar 20, 2011 at 11:11 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 49

00940

Headphoneus Supremus
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Over the years, I've played with quite a few little amps (so many it often diverted me from my big projects, but that's another question 
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). This version is the fusion of a few designs, keeping their stronger points and simplifying everything else when possible.
 

 
Let's start with the PS. The amp is to be powered by a laptop power supply. They're 19V, regulated enough, rated for tons of current, often without ground pin (no ground loop to fear) and even the worst scavenger should be able to find one for free. Obviously, they also have two problems: they're quite dirty as they're switchers and they're single rail supplies. The first problem is taken care by a filter at the DC input, using an 1mh inductor and a 1uf ceramic or mkt cap. The second problem is taken care of by a virtual ground. Using 1K resistors and 2200uf caps, it's solid enough for our use without the complication of an active virtual ground.
 
The amp itself now. It's based on a ne5534. I know, I know, not the sexiest chip around. However, it's a solid performer and, when the output is taken from compensation pin5, a good sounding one. This pin is able to source quite a bit of current at a lowish impedance so we can drive a simple class A buffer from it. Here, a bd139/16 biased at around 100ma. Everything, opamp, output stage, is working deeply in class A. R4 might not be necessary, just jumper it for the lowest possible output impedance.
 
There's a catch with the ne5534: it's a bjt input opamp. As no input caps are used, you will have a dc offset in between 0 and 10mv (rough figures), depending on the position of the pot. Nothing to worry about. To balance input currents while preserving a high enough input impedance, I also had to pick highish values for the feedback resistors, raising the noise floor up to around -88db (calculated figure). It's still a good figure. The input resistors values, when combined with a linear 100K potentiometer (and not a log one), give an usable attenuation curve. Using a linear pot often offers better matching than with log pots, especially with cheap ones.
 
Below is a pcb showing how compact it could be made. It's 10cm/8cm, single sided.
 

 
 
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I tested some laptop power supplies and earth/ground could be problematic with some:
 
- If they have two-prong AC cords, there shouldn't be any problems.
 
- If they have two three-prong AC cords, I found out three possibilities:
 
1/ the "DC ground" is not connected to earth. No problem.
2/ the "DC ground" is connected to earth. Such a supply is not suitable. If you connect the amp to a source in which earth and ground are linked, you'll pull the virtual ground down.
3/ the "DC ground" is not connected to earth but there is a third wire connected to earth. This wire should not be connected.
 
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Mar 20, 2011 at 2:36 PM Post #2 of 49
I would suggest to add some space on the PCB for an input capacitor (it can be short circuited if not needed) and another in the feedback loop, for people who like security (same here, can be short-circuited).
 
Mar 20, 2011 at 3:36 PM Post #3 of 49
Well, I see the point but...
 
- wrt input caps: the input impedance is quite low, in the 10K range. That means you'd need a big input caps (2uf at least). Big input caps are either expensive or of poor quality. Either way, we are compromising the cheap, good sounding amp we were trying to reach.
 
- wrt caps in the feedback loop. Do you mean a compensation cap ? Or do you mean a cap in serie with the resistor to ground ? I don't think it's necessary. The gain is low enough to make the last unnecessary and high enough to make the first unncessary.
 
Mar 20, 2011 at 4:22 PM Post #4 of 49


Quote:
- wrt caps in the feedback loop. Do you mean a compensation cap ? Or do you mean a cap in serie with the resistor to ground ? I don't think it's necessary. The gain is low enough to make the last unnecessary and high enough to make the first unncessary.

I meant the second, to prevent DC, not oscillations. If you think it is not necessary then I believe you.
 
As for the input cap, it can be added externally if one as a source wich has high offset.
 
Mar 20, 2011 at 5:25 PM Post #5 of 49
Couple questions, this build would be perfect for my friend.
 
1. Is there a parts list? 
2. Is there an estimated cost? My guess is around $50
 
I hate asking these questions, especially since almost every DIY build is bombarded with "DURR can I get x amp for under y amount? REALLY *insert username here* said it WAS possible! YOU FILTHY LIAR!!!" etc.
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 1:43 PM Post #6 of 49
 
Quote:
I hate asking these questions, especially since almost every DIY build is bombarded with "DURR can I get x amp for under y amount? REALLY *insert username here* said it WAS possible! YOU FILTHY LIAR!!!" etc.


I'd say those are pretty legitimate questions for an amp with such design goals.
 
I updated the first post, with up to date layout and schematic (with matching names).

I didn't have time yet to create a BOM with prices. Guessing the price is difficult until I (or someone else) do it. To the price of the parts for the amp itself, you'd have to add:
- the PS, hopefully free;
- the case, hopefully recycled too;
- the pcb. Here in France, I could get a single sided pcb without silkscreen nor plated through hole pads done by a small shop for about 8€+shipping. No idea if such service is available in the US/Canada ??? The alternative is of course perfboard.

Here is the gain curve, for an input signal of 1V, in % of the pot rotation, total gain being close to 3:

10% = 200mv
20% = 310mv
30% = 410mv
40% = 510mv
50% = 620mv
60% = 800mv
70% = 1000mv
80% = 1250mv
90% = 1800mv
100% = 2900mv
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 5:16 PM Post #8 of 49
I quickly checked the prices on Mouser US. Everything but the isolation pads included, it ends up at about 20$.
 
Here is the part list. The 1/2w resistors can be 1/4w except for R17/R18 and R19 where 1/2w would be safer.
 
resistors      
       
10k (1/2w)   6 R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6
47K 1/2w)   2 R7, R8
1K (1/2w)   4 R9, R10, R17, R18
3,3R (1/2w)   5 R11, R12, R15, R16, R19
100R (3w)   2 R13, R14
3K3 (1/2w)   1 R20
33K (1/2w)   2 R21, R22
       
pot linear 100K   1 POT
       
capacitors      
       
100nf (mkt)   4 C3, C4, C5, C6
1uf (mkt)   1 C7
2200uf/16V    2 C1, C2
       
inductors      
       
1mh/1A (axial)   1 L1
       
IC-transistors      
       
ne5534 (dip8)   2 IC1, IC2
bd139-16 (to-126)   2 Q1, Q2
       
misc      
       
heatsink   2  
3,5mm jacks   2 CONN1, CONN2
isolation pads   2  
cable entry point   1  
switch   1  
led   1 LED1
 
 
So:
Parts: 20$ + 7$ shipping
PS: should be free
Case: depends on the builder
PCB: ???
 
The big question mark is the pcb.
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 5:42 PM Post #9 of 49


Quote:
I quickly checked the prices on Mouser US. Everything but the isolation pads included, it ends up at about 20$.
 
Here is the part list. The 1/2w resistors can be 1/4w except for R17/R18 and R19 where 1/2w would be safer.
 
So:
Parts: 20$ + 7$ shipping
PS: should be free
Case: depends on the builder
PCB: ???
 
The big question mark is the pcb.


Wow, only around $30? I might just add this to the build list. I'd like to try my hand at making a PCB, following Avro_Arrow's guide.
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 6:23 PM Post #11 of 49
Looks interesting. And now that you've posted a single-sided PCB layout it should be easy enough to etch the PCB oneself.
You could also pair it with a small transformer and cobaltmute's new R1 power supply for a pretty small, still pretty cheap one box build. I'm imagining a nice wooden cube type thing... :)
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 6:28 PM Post #13 of 49

You should be able to cut the board on your CNC...
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Quote:
Looks interesting. And now that you've posted a single-sided PCB layout it should be easy enough to etch the PCB oneself.
You could also pair it with a small transformer and cobaltmute's new R1 power supply for a pretty small, still pretty cheap one box build. I'm imagining a nice wooden cube type thing...
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Mar 21, 2011 at 6:30 PM Post #14 of 49
@avro-arrow: If you want the eagle files I've drawn, as a starting point, just send me your email by pm.
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edit: I realize I left out the knob in the parts list...
 

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