The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Jan 2, 2008 at 10:09 AM Post #556 of 3,220
It's an interesting one, I've honestly never come across it before in coupling caps. As you point out though it is common practice in decoupling caps as in your picture.

The non linearities I was referring to.. Well, say for your load 4.7uF gives you your desired frequency response, if an ideal capacitor is assumed then that is all you need.

However, in your decoupling example, smaller caps are paralleled up with the bigger caps as they tend to have lower ESR and ESL and will perform better at higher frequencies. In other words, you're compensating for parasitics. What you're trying to do is compensate for the non linearities of one cap by adding another one. The range of frequencies you want to cope with in decoupling is in theory infinite, and how linearly you do this isn't all that crucial. Unless loading an LDO or something else that can go unstable, pretty much every cap you can add is a bonus.

To apply this to AC coupling, I would say that in order to make that work you would want a very accurate model of the caps that you are using that you could simulate and see what happens. My point is that if you weren't careful about it, you could easily introduce more non-linearity than you already had by adding two different capacitances, ESLs and ESRs, and that this is a problem this time since it is in the signal path.

By all means though, experiment and see what you can hear, and if anyone can experiment with this on an audio analyser I'd be interested in seeing the results. I just know for a fact that this is not common practice and I figure there must be a reason for it.

As you point out, the audio bandwidth is not very big so I really doubt whether any difference would be audible so long as your main cap was of decent quality.
 
Jan 2, 2008 at 3:08 PM Post #557 of 3,220
Hey thanks for the diagram jonee, I kinda figured out something like that after reading up more, but still needed to confirm!
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Jan 2, 2008 at 9:16 PM Post #559 of 3,220
Something I also meant to mention is that some small caps (eg ceramics with certain dielectrics) have a capacitance that varies with voltage, you really don't want to put them near the signal path.
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 4:14 AM Post #561 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by iQEM /img/forum/go_quote.gif
point 1 are nice to figure out, but removing headphone jack ?! it's a no-no for me...
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after i change the bypass cable to something smaller (in size) now my new lcd are work properly now but i had a new problem, my clickwheel hadn't working at all...lol silly me...
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my dock+caps to RCA are ready though, well i use RCA interconnect for a test...before a made my own CMOYamp, then i'll move the dock+caps to normal connector to amping...
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here are my latest picts to my progress now...



sorry to interrupt all...
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please, my clickwheel only work when i assemble the PCB from logicboard/case...
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everytime i put it back to the case the clickwheel stop working, and i'm 100% sure the ribbon/flex cable was fine, not slip off or something like it cos i had lock the key that hold the flex cable...i had try to use some piece of paper too, that ussually used for fix HDD problem but wont work either...it seems the doubletape that hold clickwheel cover didn't sticky well anymore, is it cause the clickwheel problem ?
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Jan 3, 2008 at 4:32 AM Post #562 of 3,220
Johannes Freed:

None that I've seen so far. I assume someone must have since we've already hit 23k views, so of the hundred or so that actually own a nano 2G, at least one person must have tried it. Plus they're holding out on us by not sharing the results. Care to give it a shot and report it to us? Doubtless, you've read my discourse on how one might approach the diyMod nano 2G on the original post, and it's a fairly low risk you're taking by attempting it. wgr73 has a nano 2G IIRC, but he hasn't reported anything.

iQEM:

Since your click wheel works when your nano is open, the problem occurs when you close it up. I had the exact same problem with my nano, and all I had to do was make sure that the ribbon was secure before I closed it. Try jamming a small folded up piece of paper on the opposite side of the ribbon's contacts. If memory serves, the contacts face the front of the iPod, so jam the paper on the backside of the ribbon, if that makes sense. Make sure it's secure, and carefully close up your nano and see if it works.
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 5:00 AM Post #563 of 3,220
Yo Jon, im out of town right now. Plus im still debating, not quite sure if im going to try to mod the 2G yet. If I do i'll def post back, thats for sure!
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 7:22 AM Post #564 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
iQEM:

Since your click wheel works when your nano is open, the problem occurs when you close it up. I had the exact same problem with my nano, and all I had to do was make sure that the ribbon was secure before I closed it. Try jamming a small folded up piece of paper on the opposite side of the ribbon's contacts. If memory serves, the contacts face the front of the iPod, so jam the paper on the backside of the ribbon, if that makes sense. Make sure it's secure, and carefully close up your nano and see if it works.



oh, i c...then i'll try it at home right away, thx anyway for the help Jon...
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Jan 3, 2008 at 8:58 AM Post #565 of 3,220
one more thing, i plan to buy a bigger capacity for my nano as well...
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this one an non genuine one 3.7V 1600mAh...

if one of you insterest you can check on:
Code:

Code:
[left]http://www.ipmart.com/main/product/Replacement,battery,for,iPod,1st,Generation,13914.php?in=0&find=ipod%201st%20G%20battery&prod=13914[/left]

one question, is it safe tio use non genuine battery ?
tongue.gif
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 3:26 PM Post #566 of 3,220
Maybe this is a dumb question but I just got my hands on a 40GB 3G victim that needs a batt & I'm planning to iMod it (thanks in large part to this thread
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Could one get *most* of the sonic benefits of this mod by just "replacing" the wimpy SMD coupling caps (3G's C13/C16) with nice caps like the BGs? IOW did anyone try just that?

I'm was planning on including the resistors per the Wolfson spec for high impedance (e.g. using a SOHA) & wanted to avoid hijacking the headphone jack, pigtailing, etc. Not sure relative merits of SMD cap replacement & SMD resistors & PCB traces to lineout.

TIA for any ideas about this...
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 6:29 PM Post #567 of 3,220
great work! awesome!

maybe a dumb question:
is there any possibilty to get a nice quality line-in?

i checked the ipodlinux website and 3rd offers line in, but quality isnt that good..

are there any possibilities?

infinite
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 6:29 PM Post #568 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif
...I'm planning to iMod it...


For the record, we ought not to say that we are iModding these iPods. iMod is specific in its implementation in that it covers only the 4G and 5G/5.5G iPods. In the 4G, it converts the headphone jack into a line out and the dock's signal is disabled. In the 5G, the signal is sent to the dock and an ALO dock is required to operate it. I don't think I've mentioned this before, though if you read carefully through all my posts I make a concerted effort to not refer to our modding as "iModding." We are diyModding. I don't mean to rip you up personally, cfcubed, it just had to be said in general.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Could one get *most* of the sonic benefits of this mod by just "replacing" the wimpy SMD coupling caps (3G's C13/C16) with nice caps like the BGs? IOW did anyone try just that?


I don't see how this is different from what everyone's been doing this entire time.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm was planning on including the resistors per the Wolfson spec for high impedance (e.g. using a SOHA) & wanted to avoid hijacking the headphone jack, pigtailing, etc. Not sure relative merits of SMD cap replacement & SMD resistors & PCB traces to lineout.


Are you saying you're planning on using the dock for the signal? If you are, you could take some nice, hi-res, macro shots of the inductors before the dock so future 3G diyModders can have some idea of where to go.
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 6:41 PM Post #569 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by infinite /img/forum/go_quote.gif
great work! awesome!

maybe a dumb question:
is there any possibilty to get a nice quality line-in?

i checked the ipodlinux website and 3rd offers line in, but quality isnt that good..

are there any possibilities?

infinite



What I'm guessing you can do is bypass the internal preamp and send the wires straight from the line in pins to the dock. Using your own high quality preamp, you can make some sort of line in dock (LID) to hook up to your iPod. If you have a LOD you can take apart or build, you can relocate the LO pins to the LI pins which are right next in line in terms of pin order. What would you be using your line-in for?
 
Jan 3, 2008 at 6:46 PM Post #570 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by iQEM /img/forum/go_quote.gif
one more thing, i plan to buy a bigger capacity for my nano as well...
biggrin.gif
this one an non genuine one 3.7V 1600mAh...check this out !

pic_wp.jpg


if one of you insterest you can check on:
http://www.ipmart.com/main/product/R...ery&prod=13914

one question, is it safe tio use non genuine battery ?
tongue.gif



I'm sure as long as the battery meets the required specifications, genuine or not is irrelevant. I'm just wondering how you think you'll fit that battery into the nano. Are you going to tape it to the back?
 

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