The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Sep 24, 2013 at 5:57 PM Post #2,761 of 3,220
OK ..... trying to do a mod on the 4G ipod .... all i get from the guide you guys sent .....(that works ) is this 
 
does everyone agree .... don't remove the caps and inductors?
 
how about wiring .... is it all the same .... if I want to keep the headphone out up ...... and make the line out work .... what caps should I use .... are they needed?   do i have to build a dock connector ..... can I fit caps in me case ....
 
 
there's a lot of information on the forum and it's not very step by step clear..
 
T
 
 
 
 
C.A iPod 4G photo - done by vvs_75, KerryKing, no_eye_dear, funch
Notice - Do not remove caps and inductors. Simply solder wires to and from the correct pads. Removing C's and L's will increase the risk of lifting the pads and disabling any type of audio output from your logic board.

Figure C.A
Take the signals from the north pad. Please note that the board is upside down here, and north refers to the end of the board at which the headphone jack lies. Thanks for hounding me, funch. 
smily_headphones1.gif

Image courtesy of ipodlinux.org.
 
Sep 24, 2013 at 5:57 PM Post #2,762 of 3,220
@DR650SE:
Don't worry about it as the RWA's iMod's have been around for a long time. If there is anything wrong just send it back and I am sure they will take care of your iMod.
 
I used both 28awg and 30awg wires (solid core) for my mods, and so far none of them had any issues with the wires. As long as the wires are secured from being shifted around it should be fine. The weak spot is the wire point immediately adjacent to the soldered joint.
 
Stranded wires may do better against bending. I am thinking about modding one with these stranded wires in the future.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Silver-9999-Stranded-Wire-29AWG-Teflon-Audio-Cable-/110536892795?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item19bc83217b
 
 
@coacharnold:
Sorry I have never modded any 4G's so no comments on that. For the 5g/5.5g, I only remove the pair of Z caps by the dac - that's the only thing I remove. Then I lift the two dock pins (for both L and R audio channels) off the board and wire the pins directly to the dac. So it's a little different from RWA's imod. By going to the pins directly the board circuit is completely bypassed after dac - at least that's my understanding.
 
Sep 24, 2013 at 6:04 PM Post #2,763 of 3,220
   
Stranded wires may do better against bending. I am thinking about modding one with these stranded wires in the future.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Silver-9999-Stranded-Wire-29AWG-Teflon-Audio-Cable-/110536892795?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item19bc83217b

Thats the one i used in my diymod. I cant say if its worth it, i dont have any other experience with different wires.
 
That seller even ships it with chemical analysis on paper, and it looks authentic :D
 
Sep 24, 2013 at 6:44 PM Post #2,764 of 3,220
  Thats the one i used in my diymod. I cant say if its worth it, i dont have any other experience with different wires.
 
That seller even ships it with chemical analysis on paper, and it looks authentic :D

 
For my last mod I used the pure silver wires (30awg) from Homegrown Audio. I can't compare it with my other mods neither since I also used different caps. But all these mods now sound fantastic to my ears and I really don't care or intentionally look for the difference. All I want is to enjoy my music while having some fun from diying. I think this hobby can last for while till I find a new one. :)
 
Sep 27, 2013 at 4:06 PM Post #2,766 of 3,220
 
 

Which amp?
Got refurbished Headstage Arrow 3G yesterday. Don't like it. As they don't give money back guarantee, only 2 years warranty. I'll have to sell it.
I have listened imods through HiFi or portable recorders.
Both sound better than Arrow 3G.
What do you recommend.
 
Sep 27, 2013 at 4:22 PM Post #2,767 of 3,220
   
 
 
Which amp?
Got refurbished Headstage Arrow 3G yesterday. Don't like it. As they don't give money back guarantee, only 2 years warranty. I'll have to sell it.
I have listened imods through HiFi or portable recorders.
Both sound better than Arrow 3G.
What do you recommend.

 
I have both the Alo Rx MK2 and the UHA-6S MK2. The UHA-6S MK2 is a brilliant amp to my ears. I have nothing but great things to say about this amp and Nick at Leckerton. Nick is really a gentleman who has been so patient with me whenever I have a question.
 

 
Sep 27, 2013 at 5:13 PM Post #2,769 of 3,220
   
Which Op-amp do you have in UHA-6S MK2.
 
On the website they have 4 options.
I know nothing about Op-amps.
Thanks DMinor

 
I have the AD8610. I have never tried other op-amp's because this one just sounds right to my ears.
 
You may be aware Leckerton will be releasing a new version of this amp soon.
 
The UHA-6S Mk2 sounds airy and transparent and neutral, while my Alo Rx Mk2 sounds a little laidback and bassy and less transparent. If I just want to own one amp, no doubt the UHA is the one to stay. But from time to time, I switch to the Alo for a change of flavor or when the UHA needs recharging. Plus I have an army of diyimods (for hobby) so having just one amp seems out of proportion.  LOL.
 
Sep 29, 2013 at 9:34 PM Post #2,770 of 3,220
HELP !!!!!!
 
Ok ... so every time I look in this post I think i have down exactly what I need to do ..... then I read more and there is a set of posts that contradict my previous posts ..... can someone help!!!   I have a 4th gen ipod Click wheel .......
 
what caps do I take off ??
 
C84 and C86?
 
what inductors come off? or do they have to be removed??
 
L2 and L3?
 
OR should I leave them on .......  
 
AM I running wires from C84 & C86 around to L2 & L3?  
 
Then where do the Caps go .... right before L2 and L3 ??
 
AND thats it????
 
 
Please ...this seems like it's so easy .... but i can't sort out exactly what to do 
 
THANKS
 
Tim 
 
Sep 30, 2013 at 10:24 AM Post #2,772 of 3,220
The 4g guide just has pictures of the specific points and doesn't show exactly what gets connected to what..... and as I said this 185 page multi year forum post is a little contradicting in places at exactly what to do ....
 
I just need a clear 3 or four sentence explanation ..... do the caps and inductors get removed? .... then where do the new caps go in the wiring ..... from the caps off the DAC in between the inductor caps?......  what get wired to what .... and yes I've read the guide and the forum so please don't direct to them
 
Sep 30, 2013 at 12:04 PM Post #2,773 of 3,220
  The 4g guide just has pictures of the specific points and doesn't show exactly what gets connected to what..... and as I said this 185 page multi year forum post is a little contradicting in places at exactly what to do ....
 
I just need a clear 3 or four sentence explanation ..... do the caps and inductors get removed? .... then where do the new caps go in the wiring ..... from the caps off the DAC in between the inductor caps?......  what get wired to what .... and yes I've read the guide and the forum so please don't direct to them

 
The reason these is contradicting information is because there are different ways of completing the mod. You need to read and understand the methods then decide which you want to try, take into account what you are comfortable with. 
 
Basically, you want to remove the "Z" caps. Solder wires on the pads there to pick up the signal from the DAC. The caps then go on this wire, then out to your amp.... The way you get that signal out to your amp differs. You can solder to the board, as the guide says, with the option of leaving or removing those other caps and inductors. Personally, I would remove them if you choose this method. The other method is to bypass the board entirely and solder to the line out pins. Be sure to choose the proper value caps, matching the input impedance of the amp you plan to use. In no scenario will you need more than 8uf. 
 
Sep 30, 2013 at 1:18 PM Post #2,775 of 3,220
   
This is the exact reason I'm asking for some help......  all of the guides so far seem to be suggesting 47uf caps ...... which is it?

 
I told you already...
 
Here is a handy calculator to figure what value you need. I don't know why people would choose a 47uf cap. I can't answer that. Maybe the fabled "black gate" caps that are filled with fairy farts and dragon sweat are widely available in 47uf. Who knows. Your guess is as good as mine. 
 
http://www.v-cap.com/coupling-capacitor-calculator.php
 
What amplifier will you be using primarily? Do you know the input impedance?
 
Use your input impedance number, plug it into that calculator and get your value. If you are unsure, just choose 4.7uf. It should get the job done in mostly all situations. If possible, use film caps from Wima or other manufacturers. In my opinion, they sound better than electrolytic caps and are better suited in the signal path, less leakage, etc. Don't get roped into any other pixie dust nonsense like "super" caps. Science is your friend...the proper caps are not a matter of guesswork. 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top