SR60-Mod
Jul 1, 2011 at 3:42 AM Post #4,996 of 5,004

I have a very cheap soldering iron, I think 40W, tin melt normal cost me a little, but with my carding is easy. If I had to buy one would soldaor adjustable temperature, sell it on ebay for 30 €, I think. Excessive temperature may irreversibly damage the drivers, I do not ever happened but I know some. It's simple, but you must be fast and accurate.
Moreover dismounted the 325 yesterday from a friend to change their plastic piece and I found a big surprise. I do not know because there are no pictures of that or I did not see them. The interior of this is covered with plastic to !!!!!!!!
Today I am going to see a carpenter to make a piece of wood that covers the entire interior. Pieces of wood I saw did not cover all this, no?.
Inside is a plastic ring that supports the rack like the 225, I'll take today.
The good news is that the sound will improve much more and that when they return to Madrid, my friend can compare with a HF-2, and we counted.
I will put process photos.
 

 




 
Jul 1, 2011 at 4:21 AM Post #4,997 of 5,004
Btw, I know Cabillas used to liberate drivers from the back and Bila liberates from the front...which one is better?

Kojaku
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 4:56 AM Post #4,998 of 5,004


Quote:
Trim down some bowls to "donuts" and sock mod. Does practically the same thing to your sound. Also, it's damn comfy.


Kojaku


I've thought about trying the sock mod. Unless I'm misremembering there's some debate as to how to effectively do it without distorting the sound (I recall reading that it 'darkened' the overall tone quite a bit). Will definitely try it if I can get these kinda results though-- these things just sing.
 
I've seen a lot of pics and read the articles on Headwize. Any other tips/references come to mind?
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 5:15 AM Post #4,999 of 5,004


Quote:
 

Check your PayPal.  I'm back but I understand where you're coming from.
 

PayPal checked. Refund confirmed. Thanks for the swift resolve with my issue Bill.
 
I'm keeping tabs on the missing cups thread, so if you guys were on the limbo list and there is anything (as in, you sorted yourselves out with Bill) to be updated, please post there.
 
 
 
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 5:18 AM Post #5,000 of 5,004
I've thought about trying the sock mod. Unless I'm misremembering there's some debate as to how to effectively do it without distorting the sound (I recall reading that it 'darkened' the overall tone quite a bit). Will definitely try it if I can get these kinda results though-- these things just sing.
 
I've seen a lot of pics and read the articles on Headwize. Any other tips/references come to mind?


e3c52ec0.jpg


I trimmed my pads to the minimum, thus reducing transducer distance by as much as possible. The closeness brought some better kick to the bass, but it got muddy. So I reigned in the sound with some cotton socks. They're actually dress socks, so they don't distort as much as regular cotton socks. They wrap just enough to tighten the bass and add additional comfort, without creating distortion up high. But then again, my cans are sr225's, so the extension up high may be why, as when compared to the sr60, 80, 125, I can tolerate darkening my sound a bit.

Kojaku

P.S. They look pretty cool too.

aafa5872.jpg
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 5:27 AM Post #5,001 of 5,004
Part of me really wants to see you go through with the woodying phase so I think not only should you get your cans back, but I think we should put some cash in to get you some of Marty's cans! I'm a starving who does recables for fun (I'll ask for donations from people from this thread) and not for profit, but if this thread is up by the time my financial aids for college comes in, I'd love to throw you a few bucks to get it done! Head-Fi members are known for reaching out and your situation really hits hard and I feel that you should get some restitution for it! I harbor no harsh feelings towards Bila, since his contributions far outweigh his liabilities. For christ's sake I spent 300 bucks on ALO cabled SR-225's back in the day because of him! Let just all be grateful that things are going to come back to normal in due time and just celebrate Grados and Grado modding!
 
I hope you listen to your SR-225's for hours when you get them and hopefully this hasn't set you back from modding Grados! 
 
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Thanks guys! I really appreciate the thought of you even thinking about that!
But Bill PM'd today and said that he would ship the headphones out tomorrow morning through overnight delivery because I will be going back to Japan on Sunday.
And hopefully everything will turn out good and Bill will pull through.
But thanks again for even thinking about doing that.
 



 
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 7:39 AM Post #5,002 of 5,004


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Why did you get solder without the rosin core? That just makes it harder to get it to melt the first time doesn't it? The core also serves as flux. I'm all for adding more flux, but why not use the solder's flux, along with extra flux?


Because the solder was of a different ratio - something, I just wanted to try.  It just so happened that the ratios of the one I wanted to try didn't have the rosin core.  Actually, the solder I picked up melts quite quickly with my 15W iron.  I was impressed.  My work was done in just a few minutes.
 
 
 
Jul 1, 2011 at 8:20 AM Post #5,003 of 5,004
I'm sorry, but due to numerous breaches of the Head-Fi Terms of Service by various Members of the Trade (ie: basically using it for free advertising, possibly including people who SHOULD be marked as MOTs as they are modding for profit), I'm going to be closing this thread, and possibly later removing it from view.  I strongly suggest people interested in keeping any useful posts turn them into wiki/article entries quickly.  
 
Someone is welcome to start a new thread, of course.
 
May 25, 2017 at 1:22 PM Post #5,004 of 5,004
Hello there, fellow Grado modders.

It´s been absolutely pleasure to read this thread. Well at least first half of it.
I have own few grado models in past 20 years and lately i have been seeking new "perfect" headphones, for my mastering studio purposes. And to be honest, i was thinking
that time has been driven past on Grados. But then when i popped by local hifi dealers, and listened all those modern headphones, i realised that i have to put loads of money to the table, to
get ramarkably better sound.
Then i tought that why i wont check out if i can mod my grados, to get that bass bit bigger, and smooth out that upper middle a bit. And boy, this thread answered all my questions and then some!

So first of all, i popped my SR125 open, punched 4 holes, listened, puncehd one more, so totally 5 per phone was allmost perfect, when compared that to my studiospeaker system, that is pure and flat from 20Hz to 20KHz.
Then i taped the sides of my L-cushions, and woop, here it was! Perfect tonal balance and somehow that tapemod tamed that 2000Hz range just slighty enough.
And now i must get clear, that these cans are the old model, not i or e, or where they are nowdays. And there is a difference. I found that these newer models use slightly different drivers, that have a bit higher resonance peak around 2100Hz. Like +2.5dB, or so and its quite narrow. Not big deal for everyone, but its a big deal for me, who seeks absolutely flat responce, as i listen for my profession. (Is that a proper sentence? Im from Finland, so forgive me my clumsy english)

So there was i, enjoying my perfect Grados, and could not get them out of my head. But that made me wonder, is there even more perfection beyond this?
So i found pair of used ES325is very, very cheaply and went for it.
Popped them open with my heatgun, removed plastic from inside, removed plastic button (by the way, you get rid of that glue from the grill by heating it till i boils and just blow haaard, and off it flys.)
Punched 4 holes, dynamatted magnet and back of the driver (did that to 125:s too), and then some and did tapemod for cushions. And boy are they good!!!

Tonally they both are very close toghether, but 325is are a bit brighter from, lets say about 1200Hz up. And because of that newer model driver, it has that slight peak in that 2000Hz area. And yes it´s the driver. I have tried everything to get rid of that, but no bananas. And 325:s are slightly... umm sharper. Bass is just a hair tighter and image is a bit more open than in 125.s has.

Now... When i had something to compare my modded SR125, i started to hear that plastic. Its subtle, but its there. So i got rid of that plastic mesh and start seeking for perfect metal grill material, and quess what, pasta strainer was the thing!!!
And as on it, i did put small bit of air conditioners airfilter material in back ot the driver, so it smoothed things out even more. (Strangely, when i did that same to 325:s, it made that uppermiddle frequencys even worst!)

Now i have two supergalifragilistix headphones. SR125:s are a bit more fun to listen and lighter to wear, but SR325.s are more analytical tools. If only i could tame that 2000Hz peak, they would be just perfect!

Lately i have listened and compared head to head quite large amount of headphones, and all of the stock Grados the RS2e:s were best to my ears, but my modded ones are even better! But i must admit that there is something going on with that wood! Did not like GS1000e:s a bit. PS500 Pros, were a good match, but upper mids were killing me. ( I really think they are really reading this thread close in Gradolabs!)
Then when i compared them all the other brands, like Hifiman, Oppo, Dynaudio, Audioquest, Sennheiser, NAD, Sony... there were no match. Well Hifimans were nice, but too smooth and well... nice.
There was only two headphones better than my Modded ones Focal Utopia and Audeze LCD-4 (Wich were totally amazing!!! Need those!!!). But they are aroind 4-5000€, so not bad at all dear Gradomodders collective, not bad at all!
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