Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread
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Feb 26, 2013 at 12:01 AM Post #5,521 of 8,735
Quote:
How do you install socket saver?  sorry for the noobie questions...
deadhorse.gif

Add:
 
Always, always, always unplug all cords, power and inputs.
Take the device to a work surface where you have room to work.
Follow this procedure each time you roll tubes.
Think surgery.
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 9:09 AM Post #5,523 of 8,735
Quote:
Matched is a very good idea....
I took it on faith as they have a large quantity of these valves and they are a regular valve seller.
They should know to match.
One of the other members posted that they were a reputable seller.
 
They goods look perfect.
 
The E188CC is a very good valve.  I have a set made in Heerlen Holland that I love so much, I wanted a backup pair.
I think these are a fair price for 1960 vintage.
 
The ad states a "R0D1"
R = Mitcham UK plant, "0" is 1960 "D" is April "1" is the first week
 
VR1 is the valve type.  E188CC
 
 
BTW.  You don't need "balanced" with a Lyr.

 
 
Jason said that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube, wouldn't balancing be a good idea?
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 11:16 AM Post #5,524 of 8,735
Quote:
 
 
Jason said that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube, wouldn't balancing be a good idea?

The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.
 
I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.
Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.
 
EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 2:23 PM Post #5,525 of 8,735
Quote:
The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.
 
I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.
Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.
 
EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.

 
Now that's twice I see that reference.... Anyone ever answer?
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 4:03 PM Post #5,527 of 8,735
Speaking of awakening, I just got an e-mail from the guys at TubeMonger that says they need to correct information given in a previous post.  Here you are:
 
"Post post #5515 of 5524 needs correction.
 
This must be an oversight by our friends at Langrex. We will inform them of the error. These specific RTC E188CC tubes are not from 1960 or even 1960s. There were no dimple disk getter Mullard E188CC tubes from early to late 1960s. 
0
It will be safer to call these 1970s-early 1980s production. Date/Revision codes suggest that these could either be from 1970-1972 or 1980-1982 Mitcham production. 
Revision/date on these is VRI Rxxx (not VR1). Revision on most early to late 1960s Mullard E188CC/CV4108 should be dYx Rxxx.

 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+E188CC+7308+-+1970s+Gold+Pin+RTC+French+Label+-+Mitcham+Plant+Gt_+Britain.jpg.html
 
Here is an example from early 1970s - http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1972+Dimple+Disc+Getter+Chelmer+Boxed+2+-+Mitcham+Gt_+Britain.jpg.html
 
1960s Examples:
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1960s+Halo+Getter+Front+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1960s+Halo+Getter+1+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4110+1967+Halo+Getter+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+Early+MULLARD+PROTOTYPE+MINT+NOS+1961+Wrinkle+Glass+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter+.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1964+Wrinkle+Glass+Old+Shield+Logo+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter_001.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1966+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter+-+Military+YB+KB-D.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1967+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter.jpg.html
 
Langrex  is a trusted seller and they stand behind their product. Buy with confidence. Unless they have started doing it now, Langrex does not match or screen tubes. They will however give you an exchange for any issues.
 
Regardless of the fact that these RTC/Mullard E188CC tubes are from 1970s-80s, NOS/NIB Mullard E188CC is a bargain at that price. NOS/NIB Dimple Disk Getter Mullard E188CC used to sell for $300+/pair. This temporary dip in prices is due to a large number of these coming in the market from a single Military auction. 
 
Tubemonger

www.tubemonger.com"
 
That's my good deed for the day.
biggrin.gif

 
Cheers!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends 
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 4:07 PM Post #5,528 of 8,735
Quote:
Speaking of awakening, I just got an e-mail from the guys at TubeMonger that says they need to correct information given in a previous post.  Here you are:
 
"Post post #5515 of 5524 needs correction.
 
This must be an oversight by our friends at Langrex. We will inform them of the error. These specific RTC E188CC tubes are not from 1960 or even 1960s. There were no dimple disk getter Mullard E188CC tubes from early to late 1960s. 
0
It will be safer to call these 1970s-early 1980s production. Date/Revision codes suggest that these could either be from 1970-1972 or 1980-1982 Mitcham production. 
Revision/date on these is VRI Rxxx (not VR1). Revision on most early to late 1960s Mullard E188CC/CV4108 should be dYx Rxxx.

 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+E188CC+7308+-+1970s+Gold+Pin+RTC+French+Label+-+Mitcham+Plant+Gt_+Britain.jpg.html
 
Here is an example from early 1970s - http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1972+Dimple+Disc+Getter+Chelmer+Boxed+2+-+Mitcham+Gt_+Britain.jpg.html
 
1960s Examples:
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1960s+Halo+Getter+Front+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4108+1960s+Halo+Getter+1+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4110+1967+Halo+Getter+-+Mitcham+GT_+Britain.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+Early+MULLARD+PROTOTYPE+MINT+NOS+1961+Wrinkle+Glass+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter+.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1964+Wrinkle+Glass+Old+Shield+Logo+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter_001.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1966+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter+-+Military+YB+KB-D.jpg.html
 
http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/7308/Mullard+CV4109+-+1967+Premium+Grade+Long+Life+E188CC+CV4108+7308+Halo+Getter.jpg.html
 
Langrex  is a trusted seller and they stand behind their product. Buy with confidence. Unless they have started doing it now, Langrex does not match or screen tubes. They will however give you an exchange for any issues.
 
Regardless of the fact that these RTC/Mullard E188CC tubes are from 1970s-80s, NOS/NIB Mullard E188CC is a bargain at that price. NOS/NIB Dimple Disk Getter Mullard E188CC used to sell for $300+/pair. This temporary dip in prices is due to a large number of these coming in the market from a single Military auction. 
 
Tubemonger

www.tubemonger.com"
 
That's my good deed for the day.
biggrin.gif

 
Cheers!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends 

They looked too clean.
 
Not happy  
mad.gif

 
 
EDIT.  I should have know... anytime there is a lack of photos.... you can't tell what you are buying.
EDIT2.....  Look at the ink dummy !!!  I will retreat to a very deep cave.
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 4:37 PM Post #5,531 of 8,735
Sorry, I don't usually equate clean tubes with age.  I've seen some immaculate old tubes from the 50s and 60s and seen some tubes from the 70s and 80s that look like they were stored in a cardboard box outside the shed...
I guess it's all how they are stored and treated.
 
Just my penny and a half.
 
Cheers!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends
 
PS - But my question and comment wasn't meant as any slight to Iamnothim.  He's right to not be happy.
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 6:07 PM Post #5,532 of 8,735
Quote:
The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.
 
I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.
Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.
 
EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.

 
Balancing didn't really come up a lot in this thread...
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 6:29 PM Post #5,533 of 8,735
Quote:
 
Balancing didn't really come up a lot in this thread...

That's probably because a lot of us older farts didn't think to ask if the Lyr was using both triodes in the tubes.  I, at least, thought it was only using one triode in each tube so I was only concerned with tubes matching.  That's why you'll hear tons of talk on the "Triode Flippers" from Tubemonger in the posts preceeding Jason's clarification that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube.  That's why balancing (as well as matching) has become the subject of conversation recently.
 
Cheers from an Old Fart!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 6:37 PM Post #5,534 of 8,735
Quote:
That's probably because a lot of us older farts didn't think to ask if the Lyr was using both triodes in the tubes.  I, at least, thought it was only using one triode in each tube so I was only concerned with tubes matching.  That's why you'll hear tons of talk on the "Triode Flippers" from Tubemonger in the posts preceeding Jason's clarification that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube.  That's why balancing (as well as matching) has become the subject of conversation recently.
 
Cheers from an Old Fart!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends


Maybe I'm mistaken (my usual M.O as it happens) but my understanding was that Jason stated that the Lyr was single ended triode and specifically mentioned that triode flipping was not necessary. Not sure he mentioned balancing specifically but that would be a moot point if it's single ended.
 
Feb 26, 2013 at 7:07 PM Post #5,535 of 8,735
Quote:
Maybe I'm mistaken (my usual M.O as it happens) but my understanding was that Jason stated that the Lyr was single ended triode and specifically mentioned that triode flipping was not necessary. Not sure he mentioned balancing specifically but that would be a moot point if it's single ended.

You probably aren't mistaken.  I'm not as up on amplifier topologies as I should be.
 
Cheers!
beerchug.gif

-HK sends
 
"I'm old, I can talk as long as I want!"
 
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