[hikaru12]

Welcome to the club! Most people keep it on at all times and it should be settled in already if you've kept it on for 3 days. Since it's second hand it's likely burned in.

I noticed that thick sound first thing as well when I first got it. I enjoyed it with the Jot 2 but with an actual tube amp it was overkill for my tastes. I have the 2/64 now and it's more neutral, still full but would never call it thick sounding. Give it some time for your brain to get used to the change in sound and worst case scenario you snag the upgrade card and try it out

Bifrost 2 OG is best paired with a more neutral amp to let it shine. I notice this the most with speakers. I prefer a thicker sound otherwise the 2/64 or LiM is the better fit for someone with more neutral, cleaner tastes. This DAC is probably more comparable to the Yggy OG in that it’s a more dynamic fun DAC.

 

[Hyde00]

I noticed that thick sound first thing as well when I first got it. I enjoyed it with the Jot 2 but with an actual tube amp it was overkill for my tastes. I have the 2/64 now and it's more neutral, still full but would never call it thick sounding. Give it some time for your brain to get used to the change in sound and worst case scenario you snag the upgrade card and try it out

Bifrost 2 OG is best paired with a more neutral amp to let it shine. I notice this the most with speakers. I prefer a thicker sound otherwise the 2/64 or LiM is the better fit for someone with more neutral, cleaner tastes. This DAC is probably more comparable to the Yggy OG in that it’s a more dynamic fun DAC.

Lol I generally like very colored sound so I thought I might be ok, but maybe it's still too much with Lyr 3 already being warm.

It's not too bad though, maybe like 5-10% too much. I'll give it another 1-2 weeks. Worst case then I'll just order the 2/64.

Though currently the Bifrost 2 OG bass rumble is pretty addictive.

 

[hikaru12]

Lol I generally like very colored sound so I thought I might be ok, but maybe it's still too much with Lyr 3 already being warm.

It's not too bad though, maybe like 5-10% too much. I'll give it another 1-2 weeks. Worst case then I'll just order the 2/64.

Though currently the Bifrost 2 OG bass rumble is pretty addictive.

Yea LiM or 2/64 bass is tighter but not as fun. I benefit from it since my speakers need help in the bass department.

 

[Rattle]

Original BF2 is a staple in my headphone rigs. It's funny because I prefer gungnir A2 on my speakers, and with all my headphone amps except 1 prefer BF2. I occasionally slide BF2 into the speaker rig but I always prefer gungnir. BF2 OG for $699 at launch still all you need. I might grab some 2/64 cards for craps and giggles sometime but yeah BF2 OG is a stunner on headphone rigs.

 

[mvneufeld]

I have both the OG and 2/64 Bifrost 2 cards, and I usually use the OG card. From time to time I start thinking it's a little too laid back and roll in the 2/64 card, but after a day or two I always go back to the OG card. I can listen to it for hours, whereas I find the 2/64 a bit fatiguing after a while. The 2/64 may have more air and detail, but for me the richness and timbre of the OG is more enjoyable.

 

[Hyde00]

I have both the OG and 2/64 Bifrost 2 cards, and I usually use the OG card. From time to time I start thinking it's a little too laid back and roll in the 2/64 card, but after a day or two I always go back to the OG card. I can listen to it for hours, whereas I find the 2/64 a bit fatiguing after a while. The 2/64 may have more air and detail, but for me the richness and timbre of the OG is more enjoyable.

This is super helpful, but why do I feel like this will totally happening to me.

Already waiting for tax refund and searching for second hand Bifrost 2/64 card........

 

[mvneufeld]

I think a lot depends on your signal chain, and the type of music you listen to can make a difference, too. I listen to a lot of jazz and acoustic music, and I like my transients to be more rounded and then linger a bit, but people who like EDM would probably prefer the sharper transients that the 2/64 provides.

But I think having both cards is a good idea!

 

[morpheus69]

I think a lot depends on your signal chain, and the type of music you listen to can make a difference, too. I listen to a lot of jazz and acoustic music, and I like my transients to be more rounded and then linger a bit, but people who like EDM would probably prefer the sharper transients that the 2/64 provides.

But I think having both cards is a good idea!

Wish both cards could be installed at once and switchable

 

[Xerosnake90]

Wish both cards could be installed at once and switchable

This is ultimately what made me choose not to buy the original card off another member. It'd be a pain to switch them back and forth, plus I think I've reached the level of warmth and detail I'm happy with.

 

[morpheus69]

This is ultimately what made me choose not to buy the original card off another member. It'd be a pain to switch them back and forth, plus I think I've reached the level of warmth and detail I'm happy with.

Happy to have both, and it's not something i would switch daily or anything. More nostalgia now lol.

 

[hikaru12]

I tried swapping the coax cable to something more cheap and surprisingly the detail is still pretty well retained. If you concentrate hard enough though you can tell the cinnamon is slightly more detailed. I probably wouldn’t suggest spending as much as the DAC on a cable but am open to any upgrade paths for a coax cable for this DAC. Thanks in advance!

For reference I do prefer the BNC connection (even though you have to terminate in RCA to fit the Bifrost) the barrel connector grips the terminal very well so you can’t accidentally pull the cable out.

After second listen with my DDC (Pi2AES) with BNC to RCA SPDIF you get a lot more spatial cues, mid range is a lot more intelligible, bass is a lot tighter, and overall detail is a lot more clearer. The detail is up for grabs and not forced at you. Maybe it’s the combination of the DDC (I think this is its best output) or maybe the cable but didn’t think the BF2 OG was this detailed. Speakers are much harder to dial in detail and soundstage and I’m very impressed with the detail, imaging, and soundstage I’m squeezing out of this thing.

 

[morpheus69]

I tried swapping the coax cable to something more cheap and surprisingly the detail is still pretty well retained. If you concentrate hard enough though you can tell the cinnamon is slightly more detailed. I probably wouldn’t suggest spending as much as the DAC on a cable but am open to any upgrade paths for a coax cable for this DAC. Thanks in advance!

For reference I do prefer the BNC connection (even though you have to terminate in RCA to fit the Bifrost) the barrel connector grips the terminal very well so you can’t accidentally pull the cable out.

After second listen with my DDC (Pi2AES) with BNC to RCA SPDIF you get a lot more spatial cues, mid range is a lot more intelligible, bass is a lot tighter, and overall detail is a lot more clearer. The detail is up for grabs and not forced at you. Maybe it’s the combination of the DDC (I think this is its best output) or maybe the cable but didn’t think the BF2 OG was this detailed. Speakers are much harder to dial in detail and soundstage and I’m very impressed with the detail, imaging, and soundstage I’m squeezing out of this thing.

It's digital so doesn't really matter as long as the cable isn't broken.

 

[Currawong]

I think the preferred method is USB. It doesn't have to be a 'audiophile' one either, just something decent quality from you local PC shop. Reason is your computer will then detect the Bifrost, and then programs like Tidal will be able to Passthrough MQA so you bifrost gets the raw signal and also 'Force volume' so your computer doesn't determine the volume, it'd done by your downstream amp (after the bifrost).

Coax from a good DDC is definitely better in my testing, with less of an edgy sound than USB straight from one of my computers. However, some good DDCs cost as much as a Bifrost. Optical might be worth a shot as you don't get the noise issues that USB or coax can have. Usually, whichever sounds warmer/darker has lower noise.

Read somewhere that the yellow cable off your old VCR connection or the red, green or blue off the old DVD connection make good coax cables

Oh, heck no. They are poorly shielded and probably have bad solder connections as well.

Late to the game, but I bought a second hand Bifrost 2 OG. Currently pairing to my Lyr 3.

From time to time it felt like it might've been a bit too thick sounding. I wonder if I should've gone for Biforst 2/64 instead. Though it's only have been powered on for 3 days so far, been leaving it on continuously. But it sounds like it's recommended to wait for 4 days at least before it settle in?

I feel exactly the same way, then sometimes I like that warmer sound in certain set-ups. Definitely leave it on and don't switch it off for best results.

It's digital so doesn't really matter as long as the cable isn't broken.

I used to believe this, since the logic is usually "digital is 1's and 0's", but it isn't. Specifications don't define "broken". Digital transmission over a wire is a high-frequency square wave (in analog terms) where above a set voltage defines a "1", and below that is defined as "0". This requires a perfectly matched impedance across all parts and connections to work. The S/PDIF specification requires a 75 Ohm impedance, and I'll tell you now, RCA plugs and sockets are NOT 75 Ohm! That means you'll get signal reflections, which is effectively unwanted electrical noise.

SPOILER: Arguments that spew ad nauseam about this stuff summarised, to hopefully discourage a divergence into them. Feel free to ignore and/or pretend we already had them.
Then, the argument goes, if equipment is designed properly it wont matter... ignoring that correcting for the different types of jitter means that the receiver generates noise, which can pollute the analog electronics of the DAC... and then "but if..." and the argument goes in circles.... it depends on how the individual component is designed and if people are hearing differences when changing around stuff don't insult them because without measurement equipment we can't be sure What is actually going on.

I don't think one has to get fancy with S/PDIF cables at this level anyway. I just use those $15 very thin 75-Ohm terminated Superbat or the like SDI video cables from Amazon.

 

[theeclone]

Coax from a good DDC is definitely better in my testing, with less of an edgy sound than USB straight from one of my computers. However, some good DDCs cost as much as a Bifrost. Optical might be worth a shot as you don't get the noise issues that USB or coax can have. Usually, whichever sounds warmer/darker has lower noise.

Oh, heck no. They are poorly shielded and probably have bad solder connections as well.


I feel exactly the same way, then sometimes I like that warmer sound in certain set-ups. Definitely leave it on and don't switch it off for best results.


I used to believe this, since the logic is usually "digital is 1's and 0's", but it isn't. Specifications don't define "broken". Digital transmission over a wire is a high-frequency square wave (in analog terms) where above a set voltage defines a "1", and below that is defined as "0". This requires a perfectly matched impedance across all parts and connections to work. The S/PDIF specification requires a 75 Ohm impedance, and I'll tell you now, RCA plugs and sockets are NOT 75 Ohm! That means you'll get signal reflections, which is effectively unwanted electrical noise.

SPOILER: Arguments that spew ad nauseam about this stuff summarised, to hopefully discourage a divergence into them. Feel free to ignore and/or pretend we already had them.
Then, the argument goes, if equipment is designed properly it wont matter... ignoring that correcting for the different types of jitter means that the receiver generates noise, which can pollute the analog electronics of the DAC... and then "but if..." and the argument goes in circles.... it depends on how the individual component is designed and if people are hearing differences when changing around stuff don't insult them because without measurement equipment we can't be sure What is actually going on.

I don't think one has to get fancy with S/PDIF cables at this level anyway. I just use those $15 very thin 75-Ohm terminated Superbat or the like SDI video cables from Amazon.

This matches my experience exactly in experimenting with different sources feeding DACs. There's this gospel on another thread here that the modern USB implementations in recent DACs are essentially perfect and ensure no jitter, because they're buffered and allow for retransmission to prevent lost frames.

But, like you say, what if that USB receiver generates noise of its own in the process? That can affect things downstream, including the clock signal used at the point of conversion to analog. I've taken to thinking of this as, "what happens in one clock domain can affect what happens in another clock domain".

And yes, with better sources, I do notice the low end filling out more, and the highs becoming less pronounced and harsh.

I do think Unison USB gives a good i2s implementation a run for its money though. I have to wonder if the fact that it was designed purely for audio means there's a kind of elegant simplicity to it that results in less noise generated.

 

[morpheus69]

There is NO NOISE generated on a digital signal. Stop the nonsense.