[Logistics]

There's stuff like this:

http://www.10audio.com/diy_power_conditioner.htm
http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/conditioner.pdf

 

[infinitesymphony]

I'm surprised someone hasn't started selling DIY Hydras (marketed under a different name, of course). It's basically just a power strip with minimal surge protection.

 

[Bootleg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by infinitesymphony /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm surprised someone hasn't started selling DIY Hydras (marketed under a different name, of course). It's basically just a power strip with minimal surge protection.

lol!

 

[tourmaline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreAdidas /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ok total novice shot at this here, but I believe tourmaline is correct. From the reading I have been doing, it appears that most power line conditioners are wired in series. This limits the current because the power conditioner is separating you and your power source. If you plug your equipment directly into the wall, you in theory have the power on demand at the nearest substation at your disposal.

there are 2 kinds basically of powerlinefilters, active and passive.

passive use a high pass filter that only filters distortion in the hig regions starting at 1khz. The filters themselves are usually limited to a max. wattage, wich is always less then what you get directly out of your wall sockets.

Active filters, like regenerators are bassicaly nothing more than a class a amp, large powersuply that regenerates the power to clean power and some even do some extra filtering. Thse are not that efficient, lots of loss due to heat dissapation and if the statiuon isn't fast enough to deliver huge amounts of current for large poweramps, it will squeeze the life out the amps!

Some poweramps can draw 3000 watts alone per module! Thus for a stero setup 2 powermodules would eat 6000 watts. In most cases for really large amps, filtering ISN'T recommended!

For small headhpone amps it might help, depending on design(ss vs tubes).

 

[Bootleg]

 

[HumanMedia]

Listen to tourmaline, he has good advice.

I killed the performance of expensive equipment for years with the use of active filters, supressors etc on the audio gear. Removing them all one day and using high gauge power cables was a revelation.

Generally avoid power conditioners or filtering on pre and power amplifiers. On digital front ends, passive filtering is a good thing, but it must be passive

- RC networks or chokes. Personally I havent found anything which sounds as good as a 193M choke in parallel for AC high frequency filtering.

From much trial and error here is what I do.

Clamp on ferrites all cables EXCEPT the audio equipment (ie video, fridges, diswasher, etc etc), active power filter strips and ferrites on all computer equipment. This will keep the majority of rubbish, that you are generating, away from the audio system.

Power and preamps - plugged staight into the wall.
CD Player - plugged into one socket of a hefty isolating transformer.
Multi channel front end plugged into a switchless power strip on the other socket with a Hammond choke as the first item plugged into the strip.

Placing a chokes or RC networks on other sockets of the same power line also seems beneficial.

And remember to keep computer equipment as isolated as possible from analog gear, putting filters on it, not the audio equipment.

 

[HumanMedia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by infinitesymphony /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm surprised someone hasn't started selling DIY Hydras (marketed under a different name, of course). It's basically just a power strip with minimal surge protection.

Hydras are pretty lousy filters. From memory they contain just single value caps. This means they just isolate a specific range of RF from other sockets and let it bounce around, reflect and resonate within the electical node created between it and the next capacitor. This may actually reenter the equipment that is emitting it (eg CD player)

Much better are RC networks which have a range of caps two orders of magnitude apart in value, with resistors the same resistance as the line impedance on the outgoing leg to attenuate the rfi and not let it resonate.

IMO the best out there are the Alan Mahers "Power Enhancers" which plug into spare sockets of your existing power outlets to have a wider range of effect than the hydra with minimal audible impact. (and cost about $70)

Then there are chokes if you are feeling a bit DIY which are fantastic.

But all this has been discusssed in much detail over at Audio Asylum where a few EEs hang out, so go there for more info.

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/bbs.html

 

[Prozakk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bootleg /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you read the manual for several Bryston amp models, it specifically says NOT to use a power conditioner...that you should plug it straight into the wall. Spend your money on better cans/speakers! You will get way better bang for your buck there!

I blew up every piece of a/v equipment in my home until I started using power strips. Some were just el cheapo Wally World models. Yet I have continually measured the power at the outlets only to have a 5% variance in voltage during the worst time (re:heatwave). It was mandatory in my home, but I couldn't seem to measure why...until I finally found the problem. I had to reground the electrical system. The impedance on the ground was unacceptably high. I installed a new larger ground wire and rod. I still use Tripplite powerstrip surge protection but now it's just for protection against possible voltage spikes during storms. Better safe than sorry.