[andrewwardell]

I will try and find a way to measure the temperature, might invest in a USB C pass through dongle so I can monitor the current / voltage being drawn.

I’d be interested in the results of that if you do

 

[marekm]

It makes sense as iphone has a current output limit whereas many android phones they do not.

Perhaps.

I think that the headphone "load" is what matters most. Hard-to-drive headphones make the little dongle "sweat", i.e. get hot.

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

I will try and find a way to measure the temperature, might invest in a USB C pass through dongle so I can monitor the current / voltage being drawn.

I will also try to test, I can measure the case temperature. Do you guys think an hour of running would be sufficient to see a difference?

Let me know, I will test in the next couple of days.

Cheers!!

 

[andrewwardell]

I will also try to test, I can measure the case temperature. Do you guys think an hour of running would be sufficient to see a difference?

Let me know, I will test in the next couple of days.

Cheers!!

Yeah, I reckon an hour would do it. I noticed the temperature after 30 minutes.

 

[andrewwardell]

Perhaps.

I think that the headphone "load" is what matters most. Hard-to-drive headphones make the little dongle "sweat", i.e. get hot.

Possibly. I’m exclusively driving CA Mammoths and an IEMatch with my Go Link, haven’t tried any of my other gear. Without The IEMatch I get maybe 5 usable steps of volume on my phone, and 8 on my iPad (and 2 on my laptop!) so I’m not super keen to try without it.
@Mr BubbaHyde Were there any plans on the roadmap for a version of FW1.8 but with less gain?

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

Possibly. I’m exclusively driving CA Mammoths and an IEMatch with my Go Link, haven’t tried any of my other gear. Without The IEMatch I get maybe 5 usable steps of volume on my phone, and 8 on my iPad (and 2 on my laptop!) so I’m not super keen to try without it.
@Mr BubbaHyde Were there any plans on the roadmap for a version of FW1.8 but with less gain?

Top of mind I do not know, but I can certainly ask for you!

Cheers!!

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

OK so here are the results of some very basic temperature testing, GO Link ran for 1 hour on the same playlist each time, was allowed to cool to room temp between tests, also room temp was 70-72 degrees at any time. IEMs were CCA PLA13...

Using the USB C to USB A adapter and connecting directly to my Mac Mini,

As you can see top temp was 90 degrees...

Using the included adapter for USB C to Lightning...

Finally my Android device Blu Vivo G91 MAX...

So according to this highly scientific test obviously Android users are seeing a slightly higher temp, but nothing outrageous.

I also agree with the above comments as I would suspect that harder-to-drive headphones or IEMs may certainly make a difference.

Measurements were taken over the entire front and sides of the case for the Go link while it was sitting in the position you see in the pics, and Qobuz was the source of the music, also each time the volume was the max on the particular device being used.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!!

 

[rafaelo]

If you complain about the go link for tempature you need to see the heat on my KA3 from the balanced output to drive my 58X. You can easily fry eggs on it...

 

[andrewwardell]

I had a mild moment of panic before seeing those temperatures were in Fahrenheit

 

[marekm]

I also agree with the above comments as I would suspect that harder-to-drive headphones or IEMs may certainly make a difference.

So perhaps, you could do the measurements with the headphones / IEMs being the variable component and all else constant.

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

So perhaps, you could do the measurements with the headphones / IEMs being the variable component and all else constant.

I may be able to try that This coming weekend..., Possibly, lol

I am a bit backed up at the moment!

Cheers!!

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

Check out this guide for Father's Day gift ideas!

https://ifi-audio.com/fathers-day-gift-guide-everyday-carry-edc/

Cheers!!

 

[GlenAppleton]

I may be able to try that This coming weekend..., Possibly, lol

I am a bit backed up at the moment!

Cheers!!

Adding fiber to your diet might help that.

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

Adding fiber to your diet might help that.

You got me there! LOL

Cheers!!

 

[jonpca]

Hello

Firstly, I should say that I have updated my go-link to the latest firmware, 1.8. And I am using the go-link with Tidal on a Galaxy S22.

I get this prompt when plugging the go-link into my S22; "Allow TIDAL to access iFi USB Audio SE? Using TIDAL with this device might prevent hearing calls, notifications and alarms. Cancel/OK".

I don't get that prompt when plugging in my Sony NW-A55 in USB DAC mode.

If I select "OK", when I subsequently play tracks on Tidal the go-link detects MQA/magenta LED. But I get frequent, and extremely annoying, tiny gaps in the music throughout any track. Even if I limit the Tidal app to Hi-fi quality, of course no magenta LED, but I still get the gaps. I don't get these little gaps when listening to Tidal by any other means (bluetooth, a cheap USB-C to 3.5mm adaptor, or going via a Sony NW-A55 in USB DAC mode, nor when using the go-link with Tidal on a Windows laptop).

Also, unless I set the Tidal App to "unrestricted battery use" the music periodically stops completely and I need to wake the phone back up so the music restarts. I don't have to change this battery setting for the Tidal app when listening to Tidal by any other means.

However, if I select the "Cancel" option, at the above prompt, then the annoying gaps don't happen and the Tidal app is fine left on the "optimised" battery usage setting. But in this scenario the go-link doesn't detect MQA/no magenta LED, which kind of defeats a key benefit of using the go-link with Tidal!

Any ideas what is going on here?

Thank you.