[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cetoole /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just wondering, since I hear so many complaints about the YH-100 cups, has anyone tried simply dropping the drivers in a HP-1 frame?

I had thought about this too but iirc the driver was too nig to drop in - this may have been the YH1K frame as memory is blurry but a good idea to try non the less..dB

 

[Faust2D]

YH-1 and YH-100 drivers are the same size, 55 mm. YH-1000 drivers are smaller 50 mm. I also really don't understand the complains about YH-100 frame, but thats just me.

 

[dBel84]

Well that answer my puzzle - I only ever tried the YH1K cup then.

I like the frame , it is the depth of the cup that has been a restriction for me in the past but after the micropore discovery - this is mostly a non issue as you can damp them very well in the original frame.

..dB

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

I'm thinking about giving my plastics electronics expert friend a jpeg of an ortho pattern to etch in silver - but even if I did, what magnet would be preferrable?
(And what pattern should I give him?)

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm thinking about giving my plastics electronics expert friend a jpeg of an ortho pattern to etch in silver - but even if I did, what magnet would be preferrable? (And what pattern should I give him?)

I am open to this type of experimentation - after opening up a few of these drivers, they really are not that complex. The format I would follow would be the fostex / wharfedale with strong bar magnets and a simple plate assembly - tight diaphragm , pattern?? the T10 / SS100 etc - perhaps one of the others can comment but I feel that it would be "fairly uncomplicated" , which could be interpreted as "mostly harmless"

..dB

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm thinking about giving my plastics electronics expert friend a jpeg of an ortho pattern to etch in silver - but even if I did, what magnet would be preferrable? (And what pattern should I give him?)

Best magnets would be the strongest: Neodymium
As for pattern....well since you cant recreate a corrugated Yamaha driver. Go for the T50v1.
OR the T50rp, but on a larger scale! If you copy the exact magnet location on a larger scale it should work, because Fostex have used 3-D finite element analysis to reduce the problem of a leaky magnetic field, and the control the diaphragm experiences when it moves (which is a weak point in every other ortho design).

So yeah...my vote is just replicate a T50rp on a larger scale....

.

Luckily for you there are detailed pictures of the RP diaphragm online...as well as the magnets etc... I would guess just by vectorizing the image you can very accurately scale it up.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Mr. Postman brought BMF a package today.

Yeah, yeah, pics will be posted shortly, but these KH-83 are even more awesome in person!

Now a question on soldering station temps... What temp in degC should I set my iron for when soldering Kester 63/37 Eutectic solder on the Yamaha and Fostex drivers? TIA guys.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

I'll show him a picture of the T50 coil then to begin with. It alll depends a bit on whether he can find the plastic film also. He might have misplaced it.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Now a question on soldering station temps... What temp in degC should I set my iron for when soldering Kester 63/37 Eutectic solder on the Yamaha and Fostex drivers? TIA guys.

I use 350 deg C but with very little contact time ..dB

 

[JadeEast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cetoole /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just wondering, since I hear so many complaints about the YH-100 cups, has anyone tried simply dropping the drivers in a HP-1 frame?

I think Yamaha may have done it with the Anisotropic HP-1.

 

[wualta]

Nah. The A-HP-1 (my try at a slick nickname for the HP-1 Anisotropic) sounds, from all descriptions, like an HP-1.

 

[komi]

Wish i got them both Anisotropic and Sintered Ferrite to compare sound ... Is there also some diference in color or something to we can actualy recognize what kind of driverer is in HP-1 ?

I know my is Anisotropic cuz i got wspecs on the box ...

 

[iQEM]

Is it possible to make an Ortho driver base from the scratch ? atleast built a simple bipole ribbon tweeter like SFI...i had lot of magnet and other stuff from fosterfones (maybe 4-5 pairs, not all of em' work though) & 1pc dead SFI 120ohm driver, form the experience dismantle the SFI driver it's look the mechanism are not as complicated like dynamic driver...or i'm wrong, just curious is it possible or not...

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by komi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wish i got them both Anisotropic and Sintered Ferrite to compare sound ... Is there also some diference in color or something to we can actualy recognize what kind of driverer is in HP-1 ?

Under the plates, the magnets are the same ol' isotropic sintered ferrite. The only quickie way to tell for sure is to watch for the smoothness and slight olive-green color of the metal plates as compared to the rougher dead-grey surface (with telltale milling marks) of the naked ferrite.

But yes, it would be ideal if we had someone who owned both. We have to get you and/or JadeEast to borrow a normal HP-1.

 

[Kabeer]

I dont know if this was noticed before. But the Fostex Japan site uses T50rp_n as the url, similar to the t20/40 convention. But on the main page it doesnt say 'n'.
FOSTEX COMPANY