I'm thinking of getting a DF Black to pair with a 600 Ohm 88dB/mW headphone. How bad is the idea?
Volume doesn't need to be more than adequate for modern maximized recordings.
I may consider a Fulla 2 instead, but it's bulkier and more expensive.
I'm thinking of getting a DF Black to pair with a 600 Ohm 88dB/mW headphone. How bad is the idea?
Volume doesn't need to be more than adequate for modern maximized recordings.
I may consider a Fulla 2 instead, but it's bulkier and more expensive.
Either the Black or the Red can drive the ie80 well. The question is, are you the sort of person who is happy knowing you didn't get the best/totl in a range? Answer that question and then you have your answer.
It's more about voltage than power.
1,2 Vrms is just a tad more than iPhone output (1 Vrms, according to some sources). I did try K240 with iPhone, the volume was enough for quiet listening, but of course more volume could be of use.
How much voltage would you considered enough?
I see no reason why would I want to power headphones that loud. The safe level for prolonged listening is around 85dB SPL, the typical average track volume is -10dB. 95dB peak SPL seems OK until I'm going to become deaf or listen to extremely dynamic music. It seems like 1,8 Vrms would suffice for safe listening to most of modern music and adding extra 10dB for the rest would require 5,5 Vrms, that is probably out of reach of existing USB dongles.
I see no reason why would I want to power headphones that loud. The safe level for prolonged listening is around 85dB SPL, the typical average track volume is -10dB. 95dB peak SPL seems OK until I'm going to become deaf or listen to extremely dynamic music. It seems like 1,8 Vrms would suffice for safe listening to most of modern music and adding extra 10dB for the rest would require 5,5 Vrms, that is probably out of reach of existing USB dongles.
I see no reason why would I want to power headphones that loud. The safe level for prolonged listening is around 85dB SPL, the typical average track volume is -10dB. 95dB peak SPL seems OK until I'm going to become deaf or listen to extremely dynamic music. It seems like 1,8 Vrms would suffice for safe listening to most of modern music and adding extra 10dB for the rest would require 5,5 Vrms, that is probably out of reach of existing USB dongles.
Yes, of course it is wise to strive for an AVERAGE maximum listening level of 85 dB or lower (I listen at around 65-70 dB) but this is not what we are talking about here. Dynamic classical and live music recordings have peak sound pressures of well over 30 dB so you need to take that into account when determining required amp power for your headphones... so 30 plus 85 is 115 dB for classical/live music and 110 dB for other typical genres. Working backwards from the threshold of pain and hearing loss (at around 120 dB) you get 105 – 115 dB which is considered a standard to strive for to avoid clipping and other distortions due to inadequate power especially with dynamic recordings. So to be clear it doesn't necessarily mean that you will be listening at those levels. Hope that helps, cheers and respects.
I see no reason why would I want to power headphones that loud. The safe level for prolonged listening is around 85dB SPL, the typical average track volume is -10dB. 95dB peak SPL seems OK until I'm going to become deaf or listen to extremely dynamic music. It seems like 1,8 Vrms would suffice for safe listening to most of modern music and adding extra 10dB for the rest would require 5,5 Vrms, that is probably out of reach of existing USB dongles.
It's not just about LOUD. It takes more to adequately drive cans in the lower registers. IF your AMP doesn't have enough, the lower registers will not sound right
i wish audioquest will launch a new dragonfly this year.
the red and black has been a success.
they needed to be upgraded and improved specially in the battery usage of the iphone and details in the music.
Does anyone here use Dragonfly Red with USB Audio Player Pro and Tidal hifi? I've discovered an odd little quirk. When I'm playing Tidal through USB Audio Player Pro, the light on the DFR is green. Then, when I play Tidal using the regular Android app, the light on the DFR is blue. It bugs me because the tracks are 16/41 meaning the light should be green for both. It seems Android is resampling the tidal tracks to 16/48 when I use the regular tidal app, making the light blue. Does anyone know why this would be happen and/or how I could fix it? Resampling is bad for sound quality so I want to avoid it when possible.
Does anyone here use Dragonfly Red with USB Audio Player Pro and Tidal hifi? I've discovered an odd little quirk. When I'm playing Tidal through USB Audio Player Pro, the light on the DFR is green. Then, when I play Tidal using the regular Android app, the light on the DFR is blue. It bugs me because the tracks are 16/41 meaning the light should be green for both. It seems Android is resampling the tidal tracks to 16/48 when I use the regular tidal app, making the light blue. Does anyone know why this would be happen and/or how I could fix it? Resampling is bad for sound quality so I want to avoid it when possible.
All Android devices resample audio over USB. It is an Android audio issue. Only apps like UAPP or older devices like the Sony Z3 on Android 4.4 are able to bypass this. Doesn't iPhone resample as well?
Low freq take more wattage to run properly. When an amp is rated at say 80mW at 16ohms that is for a 1khz signal. The 100hz or 60hz freq take considerably more power to run properly.The power delivered to a load is dependent on the voltage and impedence, so a greater voltage is going to give you a greater amount of power to drive the headphones in the various frequency ranges, regardless of the volume level you choose
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