[Wildcatsare1]

I'll second the good Doctor's Post, while possessing ten thumbs, I enjoy reading about upgrades. I have yet to find anything that's perfect (okay my Wife's very close), so tweaks and medications that squeeze the next 10% of musical performance out of a component are highly desirable.

Ben, would you reconsider starting a separate thread with a bit more of the "how to" on your tweaks for the tecnnically inept, but adventurous among us?

 

[zachawry]

I'll second the good Doctor's Post, while possessing ten thumbs, I enjoy reading about upgrades. I have yet to find anything that's perfect (okay my Wife's very close), so tweaks and medications that squeeze the next 10% of musical performance out of a component are highly desirable.

Ben, would you reconsider starting a separate thread with a bit more of the "how to" on your tweaks for the tecnnically inept, but adventurous among us?

I agree. I am an opponent of Thread Proliferation as well, but one extra thread for the MZ2 shouldn't be too much. 
 
That way I can unabashedly ask a bunch of stupid questions.
 
I'm not willing to do too much on my own, but I could do some basic things. Personally speaking, if some kind soul would make a Youtube video of some of the easier changes (like how to swap out the pot?), that would help immensely. 

 

[zachawry]

Is there a compelling reason to unplug heaphones when using the pre-amp outs? I tried using the pre-amp outs with my headphones still in, and didn't really hear a difference.
 
(Can I just mention how happy I am with the pre-amp outs? This means I don't have to buy a duplicate source and DAC to feed my stereo system. And it sounds better than it ever did before!) 

 

[jamato8]

After listening to some good NOS Tungsol black glass round plate and a few other 6SN7 types and comparing to the 6F8G types, I don't find the 6F8G to be euphonic or distort the music in some unnatural way. I do find that a good 6F8G to be very musical in a natural way allowing for a very good soundstage, when recorded this way, and a quality treatment of the frequencies in the audible range. I am using some Tungsol black glass flat plate right now. Very good with the 7062 Amperex. 

 

[MojoAudio]

Ben, would you reconsider starting a separate thread with a bit more of the "how to" on your tweaks for the tecnnically inept, but adventurous among us?

Sorry Wildcatsare1, but you can't expect me to give away all my trade secrets

 
And I would imagine there would be some issues with the admin of Head-Fi. The ONLY reason I was allowed to post all that mZ2 upgrade stuff was that LTA petitioned Head-Fi to allow it. You guys should thank LTA for being so open minded and generous.
 
On the other hand, if any of you that are not in the trade wanted to do something like that, you may get me and other people in the trade to poke our noses in once in a while and drop a tip or two here and there.
 
For example, I've already upgraded my personal Stax T1 amp, so if someone that was not from the trade started a Stax T1 upgrade thread, I would certainly be reading it, and I may have something to contribute on a personal level, since I have no professional association with Stax.
 
Doe that make any sense?
 

 
I'm not willing to do too much on my own, but I could do some basic things. Personally speaking, if some kind soul would make a Youtube video of some of the easier changes (like how to swap out the pot?), that would help immensely. 

 
There is SO much info on electronics and DIY upgrading already on the web. You probably won't find a video on replacing the attenuator in an mZ2, but a person that is generally handy could likely read my posts and then watched a few You Tube videos on replacing attenuators, connectors, and switches, and connect the dots so to speak.
 
IMPORTANT: If you're not one of those "handy" men, I wouldn't recommend DIY electronics (cables are cool). Hitting your thumb with a hammer may be painful, but it isn't FATAL like getting hundreds of volts shocking your heart

 
Another option would be your local Head-Fi community. We have quite a strong Head-Fi group here in ABQ. Among the thirty or so that came to our first meeting, there were three professional engineers that were high level DIYers and about a half a dozen other guys that do stuff like make cables, swap out parts, and build kits. We even had quite an audience when one of the kit builders with a Bottlehead amp consult with the three engineers on upgrades.
 
Point being, I recommend building your local Head-Fi community. I have no doubt that there are people in your area that have the DIY skills to read DIY posts like mine and do those upgrades. Consider that I found one engineer at my level a couple years ago in a Santa Fe Audio Society meeting and now the two of us found a third musketeer at a Head-Fi meetup.
 
I have no doubt that any of you could create a wonderful Head-Fi DIYers group near any major city.
 
For those of you that are all thumbs and don't live close enough to other DIYers, I have no doubt there is an old school TV or electronics repair guy near your area that could follow any upgrade "recipe" you find on one of these forums.
 
And you can always send me your mZ2 and I'll have one of my techs upgrade it for you.
 
I didn't really want to get back in the upgrade business, but it is totally different when I've already done something for myself. The first one always takes 3X as long as doing the same thing again. So since I'm familiar with the mZ2 and Stax T1 from upgrading my own personal amps, it wouldn't be too much trouble if any of you wanted my company to upgrade one of those two specific amps.
 
That is totally different than my company getting back into the upgrade business.
 
I'm just afraid of opening up a can of worms so to speak and instead of eliminating several phone calls a month requesting mZ2 upgrades, I'll start getting even more phone calls from people all over the Head-Fi community about upgrading all sorts of stuff.
 
LOL!
You have no idea what a PIA it is to be in the custom upgrade business...been there...done that...no thank you on seconds

 

[bazelio]

  After listening to some good NOS Tungsol black glass round plate and a few other 6SN7 types and comparing to the 6F8G types, I don't find the 6F8G to be euphonic or distort the music in some unnatural way. I do find that a good 6F8G to be very musical in a natural way allowing for a very good soundstage, when recorded this way, and a quality treatment of the frequencies in the audible range. I am using some Tungsol black glass flat plate right now. Very good with the 7062 Amperex. 

 
 
@jamato8 Take a look at the 6201s next.  There are some really good ones.  Bigger soundstage (to my surprise) and less treble sparkle than the 7062.  I'm finding them more to my liking whereas previously I thought the 7062 was top dog in the MZ2 circuit for me.  It's no longer the case.

 

[jamato8]

   
 
@jamato8 Take a look at the 6201s next.  There are some really good ones.  Bigger soundstage (to my surprise) and less treble sparkle than the 7062.  I'm finding them more to my liking whereas previously I thought the 7062 was top dog in the MZ2 circuit for me.  It's no longer the case.

I have a number of them and have used them. There are some differences in the 7062, so it depends upon which one you are using. Also, larger soundstage doesn't always mean more accurate but it is all enjoying the music so whatever works. :^)

 

[bazelio]

 

   
 
@jamato8 Take a look at the 6201s next.  There are some really good ones.  Bigger soundstage (to my surprise) and less treble sparkle than the 7062.  I'm finding them more to my liking whereas previously I thought the 7062 was top dog in the MZ2 circuit for me.  It's no longer the case.

I have a number of them and have used them. There are some differences in the 7062, so it depends upon which one you are using. Also, larger soundstage doesn't always mean more accurate but it is all enjoying the music so whatever works. :^)

 
It often means the opposite of more accurate.  And the 7062 is probably more precise with the 6201s being more airy...  although with the Valvo triple mica 6201...  it might just be better to my ears in every way.

 

[drbluenewmexico]

Well, I very much appreciate the posts, will be sorry to see them go. One day I may even get over my fear of soldering my fingers to the word, and make the DIY cable you described. Thanks for the interesting posts.
(I'm writing a review of the Joule v5 for Headphone Guru, and I don't want to spoil it before it appears, but, long story short, it is a worthwhile upgrade to the stock switching power supply, and to the LTA LPS (which is a good, lower cost option).

BEN Z from Mojo Audio just took my ZOTL2 and is adding new upgrades to it, including vibration cabinet dampening, seriously improved volume step, hardwired input power plug directly connected upgraded power supply, and improved caps. we haven't even rolled the tubes yet.  i plugged in my old original MicroZOTL amp and it sounded crusty compared to the "less is more " edition
that Ben had loaned me of the upgraded ZOTL2, which was 30% more fluid, with way better PRAT, soundstage and impact than the stock ZOTL 2.  can't wait until i get mine
back at the end of the week....im happy to be the listening tester for these audio experiments with the ZOTL2.  the improvements on the less is more upgraded ZOTL that was Ben's
made my FostexX00 phones just sing in a way they only hinted at before.  the bass was much controlled, the treble more detailed without being harsh, and the midrange more
forward and lush...they sounded like a way more expensive phone...The original blue micro-ZOTL I'm listening to now while the ZOTL2 is being upgraded is no slouch, but I'm missing
the upgraded unit already....

 

[yukihasi]

Just got my Meridian 808v5 yesterday and listening to it with microzotl now. One thing I love about mzotl2 is that it always scale well with what you feed it, highly transparent. Whether it's cable or source change, you always hear the difference right away.

 

[Audio Addict]

Just got my Meridian 808v5 yesterday and listening to it with microzotl now. One thing I love about mzotl2 is that it always scale well with what you feed it, highly transparent. Whether it's cable or source change, you always hear the difference right away.

 
I can't believe still looks so much like the 808.2i after all these years.  Even the display looks the same.  I just had the cd drive on my 808.2i replace along with the power caps.
 
The microzolt2 does look micro against your 808v5.

 

[dpump]

Thanks to Ben from Mojo Audio I was inspired to finally make some changes to my MZ2. I had planned to replace the Alps potentiometer with an attenuator and from past experience I knew I wanted the Khozmo since it has 48-steps instead of 24-steps like the Goldpoint or DACT. Nothing wrong with the DACT -I have one in my Grace 901- or the Goldpoint-had one in a previous preamp-but I sometimes find 24-steps to be a little to soft or loud. The Khozmo gives you 2dB steps on the first 11 clicks and 1dB for the remaining range and that works better for me. The Khozmo is very reasonably priced compared to the DACT and Goldpoint-$179 at Parts Connexion-and was on sale for 20% off. The Khozmo is very large and I thought I had plenty of room for it to fit. Turns out it just barely fit but it worked out perfectly. Also replaced the input switch with an Alco switch with silver contacts and replaced the power connector on the MZ2 and LPS with male/female microphone connectors with a heavier gauge cable.
 
Also got up the nerve to drill the front panel on the MZ2 and install a balanced Neutrik headphone connector to go with the 1/4" Neutrik connector. Nerve racking drilling a 15/16" hole thru the front panel with a 1/2" drill. Had to get my wife to help hold the MZ2 due to the torque of the drill. Not for the faint of
heart! As Ben said, the MZ2 isn't a balanced amp, but having a balanced headphone connector wired for single ended lets me use my phones with a balance cable without having to use an adaptor or change cables. Separated some of the cables per Ben's recommendation also.
 
Overall I'm very pleased. I think the Khozmo made most of the improvement, but the switch and separating the wiring also helped. I changed the power connectors because I was getting noise if I touched the original stock connectors. Think I'm done for now.
 

 

 

 

 

[bazelio]

Goldpoint also has a 47-point stepped attenuator.

 

[willsw]

 

 
Looks good, dpump! We are using different connectors now - the same type, just shorter, so they fit in place more securely, or at least feel that way. I haven't tested if it gets rid of the noise when you move the power cable. Your heavier gauge cable is definitely a good and relatively simple change. I see we forgot to write your SN on the back, though I guess at that point there was no "we" and it was pretty much just Mark. According to our mostly reliable system, you've got unit #9, if you're curious. 

 

[rigo]

Picture of the Khozmo?