[_Spanky_]

djnagle, that's pretty cool. I see you have the same sidecutters as me. I absolutely love those lol.

For opamps, I got mine as test samples

Try google.com/products It should help you find what you need.

 

[igotyofire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by djnagle /img/forum/go_quote.gif It is late and I really want to order the OpAmps and tubes, so instead of looking through 90 pages, can someone tell me where to source the OpAmps and the Raythion tube? I looked at eBay but don't really trust it so much. Thanks.

lol im just about to order mine, i think index numbers 2 and 3 in the picture below are the popular options, im throwing in 1 to see how that sounds as well, heh digi-key has served me well with 3 previous orders in the past and good shipping times.

I think 2 is used primarily in the headphone amp chip socket and 3 in the dac socket, could be reversed but i know that is the popular combo if you want to search it out later

 

[_Spanky_]

I was gonna say Digikey but I wasn't sure

+1 for a fellow Chrome user

 

[jjsoviet]

I used my money to get a tube amp instead...

But I really really want to get the Maverick, but that offer was too good to pass (LD MKIII.) Fret not, I will buy this in a year or two when i get the money.

 

[djnagle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjsoviet /img/forum/go_quote.gif I used my money to get a tube amp instead... But I really really want to get the Maverick, but that offer was too good to pass (LD MKIII.) Fret not, I will buy this in a year or two when i get the money.

Can't blame you. I good tube amp for a great price is hard to pass up. I have seen, in just the short time that I've had my D1, how fast Ryan implements changes so waiting a year or even a couple months might be a good thing.

You will not be disappointed.

 

[jjsoviet]

Yeah, maybe it's actually a good thing for me to wait out a year or two while the Maverick improves in each version.

 

[ajuztam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjsoviet /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, maybe it's actually a good thing for me to wait out a year or two while the Maverick improves in each version.

you could wait five or ten years or else never get it. if im in need of something or i want it i just go and buy it.
soon i will post a pics of my modified d1. its still burning in but it sounds so much better compering to stock already that every time i put my k702 on my head a smile appears on my face. invested over 100$ so far in tube, opamps, capacitors ond diodes and loads of time.

 

[jjsoviet]

Lol, of course I would get the best current version if I already have the money. If I would have to wait for the best incarnation, then it would take years.

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajuztam /img/forum/go_quote.gif you could wait five or ten years or else never get it. if im in need of something or i want it i just go and buy it. soon i will post a pics of my modified d1. its still burning in but it sounds so much better compering to stock already that every time i put my k702 on my head a smile appears on my face. invested over 100$ so far in tube, opamps, capacitors ond diodes and loads of time.

When you post pics could you also post what you did? i.e. what cap in what spot? I don't know schematics or what a output cap would be but I understand, for example, replace C55 w/ 220uF 25v xxxxxx brand/model. Simple instructions

I'll also put it in my condensed thread. Thanks.

 

[RainDelay]

Can anyone comment on how the version with the NOS GE 5670W tube sounds in comparison to the stock tube? Is it worth the extra $20?

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by _Spanky_ /img/forum/go_quote.gif [size=medium]Tube Rolling:[/size] (Make/Model - Result) NOS GE 5670W --------------------- Softer and relaxed, good for Grado headphones. Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter ------ By far better female vocals, silky smooth, and great bass detail. Western 396A ---------------------- Great mids, greater frequency extension, darker background, less shrill. 6922/6DJ8 tube doesn't work with D1

If you use the tube pre-amp RCA outputs, it's worth it.

 

[Dr Def]

Hi all,

I'm a total beginner with the more involved side of hi-fi, so please be gentle...

Firstly a big thanks to Spanky and everyone else for the detailed discussion on the Maverick...I've recently decided to splash out on a dedicated DAC - basically, I bought the new Peter Gabriel album on CD, listened to it and wasn't overwhelmed...but it came with a code for the 24-bit recording and it really opened up (even did a blind test, though my housemates probably think I'm mad now)...so I kind of figured that it can make that much difference on a system with basic functionality, I might see another leap forward if I invest.

I was tossing up between the V-DAC, the AUNE, and the Maverick...obviously comparing apples and pears as they're all pretty different in terms of functionality etc, but I'd love to have a bit of tube equipment (love the analogue sound), and I'm essentially going to use this for PC media, and then possibly a CD player or SACD if I upgrade later. So I'm pretty set on the Maverick (although I live in the UK, hopefully won't get stung too badly on customs, I will email Ryan and ask of his experience with UK customers)

My main learning curve has been on the bit-perfect/matching concept. I have onboard sound with a Realtek 885; seems this might actually be quite useful, as you can select the samplerate, although it's fixed once you set it, so to get bit-perfect you have to change it if you're listening to a 44.1 then a 48 in the same sitting. I've also installed foobar and ASIO4ALL , and have kernal streaming via a program called ReClock. If/when I get the Maverick, I'd be connecting the PC via a Coaxial S/PDIF.

a) is selecting kernal streaming via ReClock redundant if using ASIO4ALL? Is one method better than other?

b) Can I confirm I have my thinking right: In my case, where the Realtek manager sets the Sample rate, ASIO4All won't bypass that and just output at the file's native sampling rate; it will just bypass the windows mixer and resampling. so the signal would go Foobar-> Realtek control -> out the SPDIF

c) I had a bit of an idea - could you connect both the USB and the SPDIF of the PC to the Mav, and select the SPDIF on the unit when playing 24/96 files, and the USB when 16/44.1? As the USB is recognised as a device seperately from the soundcard, so seperate from the S/PDIF...but then I suppose in Foobar, for the 24/96 files, you're forcing 24-bit depth, so you'd be sending 24/44.1 out to the DAC. But that might be preferable to resampling 44.1->96 before the DAC at least? Or you could have a seperate media player for your 16/44.1 I suppose. I guess what I'm getting at, is that I expect it's prefferable to have the minimum amount of adulteration to the signal before it gets to the Maverick - so the least amount of resampling - but also without the slight hastle of having to click a load of different settings to get bit-perfect for a range of different files (I am probably just wanting far too much for the price...but I am going to buy it anyway, just trying to consider how to get the most out of it!)

d) Just to check aswel, a bit of hardware or algorithm set at say 24/96 won't put a signal already at 24/96 through a process anyway? Probably a really silly question, just wondering in terms of my Realtek control forcing a sample rate, making sure that it will just let a signal already at that sample rate pass through (a basic analogy would be say take a number , +4 then -4...except if the process isn't actually perfect, it might be like +4.000001 then - 4.000002...if you catch what I mean...).

Cheers for any help, I appreciate it's a horrendously long post, just wondering on thoughts if anyone has the time!

 

[_Spanky_]

Dr Def, my first though is "huh?". I don't think I can answer much of your stuff but rather give you some random bits of info.

You said "but I'd love to have a bit of tube equipment". Keep in mind, the tube is only used for the pre-amp outputs, not the headphone output.

Bit-perfect? I'm not gonna touch that. I'd love to help you but with soooo many different audio chips and setups, it's hard to figure out. I will say though, the D1 will give a click whenever the sample rates change. If, in Foobar, you switch from a 44.1kHz song to one with a 96kHz sample rate and you hear a click from the D1, congrats you have bit-perfect audio, or at least an un-altered sample rate.

You can use all the inputs you want to but you can only listen to 1 at a time

Foobar only outputs to 1 (that I know of) and the D1 only selects 1. If you want to switch from S/PDIF from your onboard sound to using the USB you will need to switch the Source knob on the D1 as well as switching the output in Foobar.

Hope this helps even if it's just a little bit.

 

[Mavwong]

alright guys and girls. After rolling in opamp LT1364 and LM4562, I found that my right channel gone. So I do a little check up and found a broken wire. I can't find any of these info here, thus I'm on my own with a set of cheapo multimeter trying to figure out what's all the wiring in the D1. First let's see the internal.

Few things interest me here. But first I would like to stress that some of these info are not verified and any mod you try using the above info will be at your own risk, I will not be held of any responsibility if you damage ur D1

Also bear in mind that soldering work will void your D1 warranty.

1) As you can see from the internal shot, a very thin (looks cheap) set of wire was use for DAC output to the vol pot/input sel before going anywhere else. One of my wire break of from the connector after rolling opamps, it sure does easily break off. What I did for temp measure, is use "analog in (to tube)" yellow color wire to replace it. And I immediately notice improvement in the SQ, more separation, dynamic and airiness in the highs. (try with LF353 in the DAC, LM4562 in the hp amp). If you don't use the SS or tube out, you can try this.
On the other hand, if you use only the tube out (as Tube DAC output to external preamp), just unplug the yellow hp out wire jack(lower left) and plug directly to DAC out and you get similar by pass effect but better signal path (I haven't verify this)

2) Having found that the DAC out wire is not as good as the yellow one, may be Ryan should try to replace that with yellow color wire. I personally plan to get some mundrof wire to replace this. Also you can replace the stock wiring from the hp amp out to hp jack with better cable.

3) I was still wondering why D1 design do not feed tube out to the internal hp amp for better SQ? I try Windmill-Getter Raytheon output to pico amp, it sound so open and mid is lush even before proper break in of the tube. I was wondering could I solder some wire and feed the signal from the tube out jack and plug into the hp amp in jack (jack is the same as PC fan jack, should be easy to find)?

4) Back to Opamp rolling. These are just my observation. The 2 stock LF353 doesn't sound similar to my ear for sure. Initially I only roll the HP amp 353 to LM4562. AB the 2 LF353 in the DAC, one sound more dynamic and the other sound veil. I like the more dynamic one, which compliment well with layback/dark sound of LM4562. Later I roll out the DAC 353 with LT1364, and found out LT has better separation, more mid bass, more define bass. But it not as airy as 353. Likely due to LT haven't break in. The LT1364 sure is hot, I can't place my finger in it for more than a second.

5) last, wish to seek advice from some expert here, I plan to mod the caps to mundrof as well. Care to share some suggestion of what to replace other than the hp output caps at C61/C62?

 

[Dr Def]

Hey Spanky,

Thanks for the quick reply - and the tip for listening out for the click is really helpful actually, if just to satisfy my curiosity even if I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference in a blind test!

Thanks to your very helpful guide I was aware the tube only pre-amps to the specified RCA outputs on the back - I must admit to probably being a bit of an intruder here, in that I'm less focused on using the unit for headphones, more for a direct output to the amp; though will possibly invest in a decent set of headphones too, maybe paycheck after the one I buy the Mav with! I just tend to be happier with a tube/hybrid sound - I have a tube guitar amp, and my favourite is actually a hybrid, so I think a slightly tube-coloured sound is preferable to my ears.

Yeah I get that you'd need to physically switch to change from USB to S/PDIF - I was just throwing out the ideas for if you happen to have a mix of different file types - but really, chances are you'll only listen to one type in one particular sitting. Just I have a mix of FLAC in 16 or 24 / 44.1 or 96 recordings. But you'd still have to keep an eye on what's playing and flip it over, aswel as have two seperate media players if you're forcing 24bit in Foobar ; you'd have to line up the 16bit recordings in a different MP that's not forcing 24bit. So pretty much a useless idea really, was more an 'in theory' kind of thing. Edit And I re-read and see the other problem, in that you'd have to change foobar's output between SPDIF and USB, so would be properly useless to bother plugging in both even if intending to click over inputs...might aswel just stick to listening to one type at a time and taking the time to alter a couple of settings between file types, or being OK with resampling of some files...

I suppose really what I'm getting at, is that if you follow the same method described to get bit-perfect 24/96 output, can you not use the same method to have bit perfect 16/44.1? So you would force 16bit in Foobar and set the resampling at 44.1? It would mean swapping setttings each time for different file types, but it is achievable? I just got a bit confused when the tutorial said you can get 24/96 bit perfect but not 16/44.1 - I guess that just means, with that particular setup where you force 24/96 , it will then resample anything else so won't quite be bit-perfect...