DeathDomokun
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2011
- Posts
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Has anyone tried using polymer clay instead of plasticine?
3D Printed custom baffles for FA-003 pads.
Straight FA-003 Pad Baffles:
1. BMF
2. BMF
3. BMF
4. Geetarman49
5. DeathDomokun
6. LFF
7. Cortlendt
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Angled FA-003 Pad Baffles:
1. BMF
2. BMF
3. BMF
4. CYoung234
5. Geetarman49
6. Cortlendt
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** I will release a final cost later too so this list doesn't bind you to anything yet ***
Increase bass performance (due to the better seal) and some improvement in comfort, too.
The direct changes going from stock pads to 840 pads is going to be V-shaped: improved bass, lower mids and treble; loss of mids.
As discussed previously, this 'loss of mids' is mostly because the stock pads accentuate mids very much and the 840 pads do not.
As I understand it, this is what is necessary to achieve a flatter frequency response curve. You must enhance bass extension and at the same time tame the mids a little. You see that when you compare the frequency response of stock T50RPs with let's say LFF's Paradox setup.
After lurking in this thread for quite a while, I finally gave in this afternoon and ordered myself a pair. What do you guys think - should I live with them stock for a week or so (to appreciate the humble origins), or order up some plasticine, silverstone, 840 pads, etc. right out of the gate?
Hi i'm completely new to this thread and unfortunately can't do any modding myself except replacing stock pads with the Shure 840 ones so just want to know if anybody who has expierence and willing to do this for me (preferably in New York city)? I don't need wooden cups since i was told that they aren't required to achieve the best sound
After lurking in this thread for quite a while, I finally gave in this afternoon and ordered myself a pair. What do you guys think - should I live with them stock for a week or so (to appreciate the humble origins), or order up some plasticine, silverstone, 840 pads, etc. right out of the gate?
What kind of mods do you intend to do? Most of the mods, at least the reversible ones, are very very very simple to do. Things like buying plasticine (or any non-drying modeling clay) and putting some on the baffles, or just stuffing the cups with cotton.
If you plan on going all-the-way the you're probably also looking at dynamat and whatnot, then I guess it'll be a little tougher. You can try the reversible ones first; they're reversible anyway! Just don't pull the cables too hard and you should be fine. Oh, and don't touch the 3 center screws on the baffle cause you don't need to.
Live with them stock for a bit. It will give you an idea of the strengths and weaknesses of these cans; from there you shape the sound as you see fit with different mods and materials. Wouldn't hurt to get the materials first, although make sure you'll need them. Silverstone is probably one of the more expensive material listed (until dynamat?), and well, if you have leftovers you can always sell/share with other people or shove them in a desktop PC.
I think the right driver on my T50 just died, the one I was recently soldering on. I Actually thought it went out yesterday, and that one of the wires I soldered had probably come loose. After opening and inspecting it the wires were in tact, but the driver started working again. Things were fine yesterday and earlier, but when I went to use them tonight the right channel was out again. After reopening the right cup everything looks fine but no magical cure this time. So I closed it back up and checked the connection in the relay in the other cup thinking maybe the problem was with that connection. Everything looks fine there too, so I'm confused
What effect does poking holes in plasticine have?
Pic is stolen from a BMF post and I don't claim it's mine and yada yada