[headphonatic]

Quote:

 
I'm using Dynamat on the baffles (with square areas cut out for the drivers) and then heavier felt bonded to the Dynamat.  The Shure 840 pads are then adhered in place via slipping them on as you normally would.  Several hundred posts back, it was mentioned that since the ortho driver is bi-polar (I believe that was the term used), it can benefit by having dampening material on both sides of the baffle.
 
I haven't tried Compass Audio before.  However, just a few weeks ago B&H Photo had them for the same price, with free UPS Ground shipping.
 
 

So I'm guessing, I should use felt attached to dynamat, instead of acoustic foam? I have both, what ever is better.
 

 

[rhythmdevils]

Every headphone driver emits sound out of the front.  There's nothing unique about that in a planar magnetic driver.  The unique thing is on the other side in the fact that the same signal comes out the back as the front (you could install the drivers backwards) and needs special treatment compared to conventional dynamics because of this.  This is why you don't see vented baffles with orthos like you do with conventional/electro dynamics.  So damping the baffle around the front of an ortho is not really any different from doing the same with a conventional dynamic.  In both cases you are just trying to stop resonances on the baffle (often times not a problem with conventional dynamics because of the vents they almost always have)

 

[KneelJung]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrspeakers /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Quote:

Can somebody refresh my memory...what happens with the stock driver paper / felt  removed?

Everything changes and you have to start over.  
 
I have done some experiments, which I haven't published.  At least in my mods, sometimes I could get flatter response with the felt in but transients were not as clean as with it gone.  Also, removing the white felt let's many designs develop much more powerful bass, but it can be a bad fit to some pads.  If yours sound bass light removing the felt is one solution.  LFF has the 003 pads and he left the felt on.  His bass is quite nice, and gets a few more Hz on the bottom than the RP2.  But I haven't played with them so YMWV.

So start over I did. I cant believe the threads for the 4 screws holding the baffles on dont give out on these things. Unfortunately when you open and close them as many times as I have to tinker with this or that, your bound to inadvertently disconnect some wire from the solder tab on the driver. Tempted fate one too many times. My solder skills are not the best either, and the last time it happened was a royal PITA. Anyway ended up disconnecting both wires trying to fix the one. A blessing in disguise ultimately I think because it made it easier to tin the wire. Basically tinned the wire and held it to the old solder and attached.
 
My current configuration is:
 

1. driver paper removed and replaced with a piece of silky fabric
2. felt in wells and walls covered by silverstone acoustic foam on all plastic areas
3. center square on driver covered with craft felt from Walmart
4. stiff craft felt covering top of post in baffle
5. fiberfill from a bed throw pillow
6. bass vent open, with 2 vents covered from outside by electrical tape. Filtered from inside as well by fiber fill from pillow
7. Shure 840

 
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the current signature, but I think I'm going to quit messing with them for a while.
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the current signature, but I think I'm going to quit messing with them for a while.
 

 
That's the idea.  One needs to settle a bit with the changes to really realize the benefit.  Putting some time on them and more music through them allows you to listen to some of your favorite music passages and see how the sound details might have changed - for better, or worse.
 
I really haven't lost my faith in the Fostex headphones.  Clearly, for the price and being able to do so many optional modifications to them is certainly a joy ... but, I wonder at how many times of removing the baffle screws does carpel tunnel syndrome start to set in?  In regards to the Fostex, there's been one small area that I've really tried to focus on but can't resolve as good as I'd like.  On some of my tracks of southern jazz, they play the drums with the brushes.  On such tracks, my HifiMAN headphones can pick it up and play it with delicious detail.  However, the Fostex 'phones seem to attempt to push the sound on the tracks, but the brushes on the drums seem distant and a bit weak.  I think where I am is in the zone of what sets the Fostex apart from a pair of $500 headphones.  I don't know if I've reach the outer limits of what their driver is capable of, or if it's not the driver, but more fine tuning of the cups, baffles, etc.  I'm just not sure if I'm up to the next 8 iterations of changes to resolve this teeny, minor item.
 

 
 

 

[jjmai]

Quote:

yes I ordered mine from full compass, they were helpful and courteous, the price was indeed $74, until mine were back ordered and then sent via ups and I had to pay their freaking brokerage fee of $35.00. 

Wow, that sucks.  This makes B&H's $74 price even more enticing...

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

Wow, that sucks.  This makes B&H's $74 price even more enticing...

I was thinking the same thing.  
 
Has anyone here removed the drivers from the stock baffles?  Is it challenging?  If it isn't, I might take a crack and designing a prototype baffle that angles the drivers by some amount of degrees.  Is anyone aware what angle Beyerdyamics puts on their T1's? 
 

Nevermind, a quick search turned up 4.15 degrees angle driver.  That should be easy to do.
 
Don't wait up for it and pass on the current baffles I've got in the making though, because these won't be coming for a long, long time, if ever.  Not to mention, they would have to be printed on ABS plastic, which could easily be over $100 for a single baffle.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Has anyone here removed the drivers from the stock baffles?  Is it challenging?  If it isn't, I might take a crack and designing a prototype baffle that angles the drivers by some amount of degrees.  Is anyone aware what angle Beyerdyamics puts on their T1's? 
 
 

 
I've removed drivers from the baffles.  You have to remove the 3 screws on the ear side of the baffle.  Then, the driver is also clamped on 2 sides to the baffle by some tabs.  Using a small screwdriver, you can slightly up the tab to get the driver out.  You'll notice that they utilize a small, square grey foam gasket between the driver and the baffle.  It may come out stuck to the driver or left on the baffle - but if you look, you'll clearly see it.

 

[headphonatic]

Sorry, this question might have been answered a long time ago on this thread, but when loading the baffles, is dynamat better than Plasticine?

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

Sorry, this question might have been answered a long time ago on this thread, but when loading the baffles, is dynamat better than Plasticine?

A combination of both works best.  Plasticine will fit the shape of the volume that you stick it in with enough force, so you can put it in the cavities inside the inner portion of the baffle.  Dynamat works best on the ear side of the baffle where the surface is flat (once you remove the felt).
 
 

Quote:

 
I've removed drivers from the baffles.  You have to remove the 3 screws on the ear side of the baffle.  Then, the driver is also clamped on 2 sides to the baffle by some tabs.  Using a small screwdriver, you can slightly up the tab to get the driver out.  You'll notice that they utilize a small, square grey foam gasket between the driver and the baffle.  It may come out stuck to the driver or left on the baffle - but if you look, you'll clearly see it.

 
Thanks.

 

 

[headphonatic]

Oh no, I was removing the bass vents when I accidentally hit one of the wires smoldered on to the cable box on the left cup. There are 2 wires connected to the cable box that leads to the right cup, one is red and the other is white, the white one got accidental detached, Please help, how do I put it back on? I have silver conductive epoxy, would that work? Or will I have to smelt it back on?

 

[dgcrane]

I guess I am easy to please, but I think I am now done with modding these. I love how they are sounding......
 

1. Shure 840
2. Plactisine on baffles with some dynamat on top of the plactisine
3. Paxmate inside cups
4. reflex dot
5. remove earside felt

 
well... I think I am gonna replace the cables but thats it !
 
Darren

 

[headphonatic]

Anyone please help, I put the white wire in place at where it's supposed to be, but they won't stay on. Please Help!

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

I guess I am easy to please, but I think I am now done with modding these. I love how they are sounding......
 

1. Shure 840
2. Plactisine on baffles with some dynamat on top of the plactisine
3. Paxmate inside cups
4. reflex dot
5. remove earside felt

 
well... I think I am gonna replace the cables but thats it !
 
Darren

You can achieve more, judging from what you've done.  Also, I don't think dynamat on top of plasticine is helping you much there at all.  Try the dynamat on the ear side of the baffle instead, and really roll it down hard to make sure you get a good contact.
 

 

[headphonatic]

Will silver epoxy do the trick, it's conductive?

 

[dgcrane]

Do you have access to a soldering iron ? If so, should be an easy fix and would be the best solution IMO.

Darren