[micmacmo]

Check out this post from joelpearce re: velour pads on orthos.

 

[DaBomb77766]

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Check out this post from joelpearce re: velour pads on orthos.

 
Thanks - are there no actual impressions on them though?  Just theory isn't particularly helpful...but I guess it's better than nothing.

I did find that Headfonia article, and he said that on the 940, the pleather pads increased bass volume but he said he didn't like it with that particular headphone.
 
Of course, those impressions could also be meaningless, seeing as how he's comparing with a dynamic driver headphone as opposed to an ortho...at any rate, I think I'll just go with the pleather ones as those seem to be what everyone else is okay with.
 
How much of an impact do these actually have on sound and comfort though?  Just the pads alone would be worth almost half of the cost of the headphone to me...I'd rather not spend money on something that makes minimal difference.

 

[Anaxilus]

Quote:

 
Thanks - are there no actual impressions on them though?  Just theory isn't particularly helpful...but I guess it's better than nothing.
I did find that Headfonia article, and he said that on the 940, the pleather pads increased bass volume but he said he didn't like it with that particular headphone.
 
Of course, those impressions could also be meaningless, seeing as how he's comparing with a dynamic driver headphone as opposed to an ortho...at any rate, I think I'll just go with the pleather ones as those seem to be what everyone else is okay with.
 
How much of an impact do these actually have on sound and comfort though?  Just the pads alone would be worth almost half of the cost of the headphone to me...I'd rather not spend money on something that makes minimal difference.

Dynamic v ortho shouldn't matter.  The waves are already in the acoustic environment at that point so they don't care how they were made for the most part.  
 

 

[Armaegis]

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Actually, I don't agree with a few things you say.  First, these headphones are really sensitive to reflection.  As long as you are using a quality acoustic foam you won't be overdamping (unless you try something goofy like filling the whole enclosure with foam), though you will need to tune the vent or close it depending on the other mods.  I don't think less is more is valid in this instance.  
 
Second, the bass ports are very fortunate to have, because any mod has a major effect on bass, and through the port it's very easy to tune your sound for a given configuration.  If the port wasn't there, mod options would be reduced.
 
Ultimately, I have been working on the T50s for many months and can safely say this:  they're super sensitive to modifications, and almost any change affects multiple aspects of the sound.  Given the variables of pads, damping, foam, mass and vents it is really interesting and sometimes frustrating to tune a design because most of these variable interact, and chaining one may require changing another.
 
It's been both challenging and rewarding to work on so many sets and try so many design variations.  The sound I've arrived at is addictive, it's just that pleasing.  Send me a note if you try the full Rastapants 2.  I have a secret I'll share, and you will want to hear it...
 

The less is more comment was directed more at those who've been layering umpteen different configs and different felts, etc. A simple acoustic foam covering over the surface would be my choice as well, or lacking that just a wide layer of felt. 
 
I didn't say anything about mucking with the ports. Just that they're there and let them do their job, unless you've created some sort of crazy damping scheme that no longer needs it (which is entirely possible).
 
My soapbox rant was more a result of misinformation about how damping (mechanical and acoustic) works. While trial and error can be fun, a little education goes a long way.
 
This thread honestly moves way too fast for me to keep track of and I only poke my head in every once in a while. I'm not even fully aware of what all the "end game" mods are, though I think BMF has been keeping a list somewhere. 
 
 

 

[DaBomb77766]

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Dynamic v ortho shouldn't matter.  The waves are already in the acoustic environment at that point so they don't care how they were made for the most part.  
 

Ah, okay.  Well, either way, I'd like a bit of bass emphasis...I guess I'll be fine with the pleather ones.  They're a bit cheaper too, though $3 is hardly a big deal.

 

[hans030390]

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...Send me a note if you try the full Rastapants 2.  I have a secret I'll share, and you will want to hear it...

Does full RP2 mean we have to have the O2 pads? I'm doing the full RP2 (minus Dynamat for now), but I currently only have stock earpads. I do plan on getting 840 pads, but O2 pads...if I do, it will be long down the road. If it still counts, I'll let you know when I'm done!
 
Speaking of that, I was wondering what you might suggest as far as tuning the bass port goes with full RP2 and stock earpads (to be upgraded soon-ish to 840 pads). Should they still be completely closed, or more like how they were with RP1? Currently with the stock pads, I have a 2nd layer of Silverstone foam on the back half of the "donut" to angle the pads a bit. I also do not have any Dynamat (or similar material) to use in the cups, as mentioned. Not sure how much those would make a difference.
 
But, yeah, got one cup done so far. Takes a long while! I've been doing some basic left/right comparisons, and I'm liking the results so far. It'll be much easier to tell when both are done.

 

[mrspeakers]

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The less is more comment was directed more at those who've been layering umpteen different configs and different felts, etc. A simple acoustic foam covering over the surface would be my choice as well, or lacking that just a wide layer of felt. 
 
I didn't say anything about mucking with the ports. Just that they're there and let them do their job, unless you've created some sort of crazy damping scheme that no longer needs it (which is entirely possible).
 

I mentioned the port because it becomes very important once you use almost anything not very close to the white felt...  You only have to be slightly barking mad, vs. fully crazy with the mods for this to be a variable of interest...
 

 

[mrspeakers]

 
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Quote:
Does full RP2 mean we have to have the O2 pads? I'm doing the full RP2 (minus Dynamat for now), but I currently only have stock earpads. I do plan on getting 840 pads, but O2 pads...if I do, it will be long down the road. If it still counts, I'll let you know when I'm done!
 
Speaking of that, I was wondering what you might suggest as far as tuning the bass port goes with full RP2 and stock earpads (to be upgraded soon-ish to 840 pads). Should they still be completely closed, or more like how they were with RP1? Currently with the stock pads, I have a 2nd layer of Silverstone foam on the back half of the "donut" to angle the pads a bit. I also do not have any Dynamat (or similar material) to use in the cups, as mentioned. Not sure how much those would make a difference.
 
But, yeah, got one cup done so far. Takes a long while! I've been doing some basic left/right comparisons, and I'm liking the results so far. It'll be much easier to tell when both are done.

As I mentioned, the tuning of the RP2 assume the O2 pads and I'm not done with the 840 variation.  The stock pads will have an upside down U shaped response with the RP2 as specified.   However, it may be better (just guessing, haven't tried it) if you leave the stock felt on with the stock pads and do the RP2, but instead of putting foam on the vent, use electrical tape on the outside to adjust the vent width and tune the bass.  
 
The O2 pads created a L shaped response, so my mods enhanced the low frequencies to smooth out the sound.  Hennyo played around with the Rastapants 2 with the stock and 840 ear pads, IIRC.  You might drop him a note to see what variations he made...

 

[Armaegis]

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I mentioned the port because it becomes very important once you use almost anything not very close to the white felt...  You only have to be slightly barking mad a typical DIY modder, vs. fully crazy with the mods for this to be a variable of interest...
 

Fixed that for you... 

 

 

[DaBomb77766]

Man, this thread is so active you guys almost need your own forum.
 
In fact, I think a big wiki or something would be a really good idea.

 

[Hennyo]

Prepare to be floored! I'm glad mrspeakers designs are taking off! I'm currently using stock pads, and it sounds amazing.
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Quote:
Does full RP2 mean we have to have the O2 pads? I'm doing the full RP2 (minus Dynamat for now), but I currently only have stock earpads. I do plan on getting 840 pads, but O2 pads...if I do, it will be long down the road. If it still counts, I'll let you know when I'm done!
 
Speaking of that, I was wondering what you might suggest as far as tuning the bass port goes with full RP2 and stock earpads (to be upgraded soon-ish to 840 pads). Should they still be completely closed, or more like how they were with RP1? Currently with the stock pads, I have a 2nd layer of Silverstone foam on the back half of the "donut" to angle the pads a bit. I also do not have any Dynamat (or similar material) to use in the cups, as mentioned. Not sure how much those would make a difference.
 
But, yeah, got one cup done so far. Takes a long while! I've been doing some basic left/right comparisons, and I'm liking the results so far. It'll be much easier to tell when both are done.

Hate to pry, but try to copy mrspeakers implementation and my own as best you can in the cups. Leave the earside acoustic foam free for now (until you get O2 pads) and enjoy nirvana for 1/20 the price of some other.... offerings...
 
Leave the vents closed. Tape the vents up before place acoustic foam over the vent (or place masking tape) on the outside of the cup. With stock, and first glance, it may seem off. If it doesn't sound amazing soonafter you've demoed for a while, there's something slightly off. Make sure to remove the black felt on the ear-baffle side as this further opens things up!
 

 

[CYoung234]

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mrspeakers,
 
I will be doing the full mod to 2 sets of T50RPs, one at a time (I want to mod one pair and compare it to my current mod setup). I have to get the second pair and the dynamat from my twin brother first, though! That should happen in the next day or so though.
 

Initial listening tests with one pair fully modded, but without the O2 pads are fairly promising, except for a large midrange hump (using stock pads with no paxmate on the ear side. Also, the Dynamat I used was Dynamat Original, which does not have any foil. Here are a couple of pics.
 
First shows the Dynamat. You can also see the electrical tape covering the vent:
 

 
The second shows the baffle side. Note that I am using Loctite Fun-Tak right now for mass loading. I have some plasticine on the way from England.
 

 
Finally, this is the competed cup side:
 

 
I will be testing both the Fischer FA-003 pads and Shure 840 pads on this. When I compare this to the pair I modded earlier, the pair I modded earlier still sounds better, but I think once I get rid of the midrange honk the story may change. It may also be that I apply some of the things from the RP-2 (such as the Paxmate over the center post and covering the baffle side) to my other pair, which is basically the BMF mods.
 
Any comments / criticisms / suggestions are of course welcome.
 

 

[sharkz]

Just a quick question. This may seem stupid, but I see all these pictures of felt perfectly covering the driver. What method is everyone using to secure it there? I have a line of duct tape around the outside of my driver holding the tape on for now, but I would like a more elegant solution like what everyone else is doing.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I apply a bead of "Best-Test" rubber cement around the driver frame and little dabs at the four corners of the center grid square.  The brush in the container is way too big to be practical.  I apply the rubber cement by dipping a toothpick in the container, laying it flat along the driver frame, and twirling the toothpick as I pull the pull it towards me.  Works for me.  You can easily remove the felt and rubber cement with an Xacto knife.
 
As for the felt, I believe it was mrspeakers who first reported on the improved performance of stiffened felt compared to floppy felt.  I tried both over naked drivers and the stiffened felt is significantly better.  I am curious if natural wool felt performs differently.
 
Quote:

Just a quick question. This may seem stupid, but I see all these pictures of felt perfectly covering the driver. What method is everyone using to secure it there? I have a line of duct tape around the outside of my driver holding the tape on for now, but I would like a more elegant solution like what everyone else is doing.

 

 

[CYoung234]

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... No matter what the sound stage on my headphones sounds like, it isn't realistic because it sounds like I am sitting in the middle of the stage and the instruments are around me. As cool as this sounds, it isn't like really being there. ...

 


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What if you are a conductor or orchestra member?  

 
Unfortunately, NOTHING sounds quite like sitting in the middle of a good symphony orchestra as a musician. Unfortunately, when you are playing, you don't have the time to just sit back and enjoy the sound!