[bitsnbytes]

Unless, of course, you bought the 5V Jays.  In this case, it is conceivable that some special Y cable that combines power from Jays and data from the computer would work.  I've never seen such a cable though.

Think the LH 2G cable splits the power from data

WARNING: your LPS must be 5v!!! Confirm this before blowing things up!!

 

[bitsnbytes]

That would give you the power if it was a type A female connector, but what about the data?

I think you need to tape one of the usb pins (#4?) for power going to the GO.

There's a DIY thread on the Geek Force Forum on this. Substitute the iPhone charger with your 5v LPS.

I did this with a portable device power pack...almost as clean as a LPS

 

[jbr1971]

I think you need to tape one of the usb pins (#4?) for power going to the GO.

There's a DIY thread on the Geek Forum on this...sorry no link...I'm in transit

 
The cable he posted about is not split. It is only power, no way to pass on a data signal to the Geek Out.

 

[walfredo]

 

Unless, of course, you bought the 5V Jays.  In this case, it is conceivable that some special Y cable that combines power from Jays and data from the computer would work.  I've never seen such a cable though.

Think the LH 2G cable splits the power from data

WARNING: your LPS must be 5v!!! Confirm this before blowing things up!!

The the 2G is USB B and the GO needs USB A female.
 
So, the cable is really strange.  USB A female in the GO side, and USB A male (to the computer) and 5.5mm/2.1mm (to the Jays) in the other side.
 
Using @zerodeefex cable, you can reduce the problem to a USB A female in one side + USB A male and USB A female in the other side.  Still, I haven't seen one.
 
And, yes, ensure your LPS is 5V!!!!

 

[doctorjazz]

OK, think the answer is either to sell the Jays or buy a Pulse!

 

[doctorjazz]

And, it is 12v...

 

[zerodeefex]

Oh, if you had a 5V my solution would have worked.

i said Apricorn USB Y cable in my first post. Tape the power leg up on the data side.

Then use this instead of the first cable I posted:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EY7YFF6/ref=pd_aw_sims_8?pi=SS115&simLd=1

If it's 12V, just sell it.

 

[walfredo]

Oh, if you had a 5V my solution would have worked.

i said Apricorn USB Y cable in my first post. Tape the power leg up on the data side.

Then use this instead of the first cable I posted:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EY7YFF6/ref=pd_aw_sims_8?pi=SS115&simLd=1

If it's 12V, just sell it.

Oh!  I thought the link was to the Apricorn USB Y cable.  Yes, the two cables together should work.

 

[walfredo]

 

IMHO, discussing LPS options for the pulse makes total sense in this thread.  

I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Digital-display-Hifi-linear-power-DC-1-USB-amp-DAC-external-power-supply-/291344316952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d5797a18.  I can post impressions when I receive it.

Please do, I wasn't able to afford the lps but could do one of those. Did you order 12v 1.2a version? Also is the polarity on the stock cable correct for the pulse?

So, while we are in the LPS topic...
 
I received the cheap LPS from ebay.  Alas, the Pulse does not work with it.  It turns on, but it is not recognized by the computer.  
 
I checked and it indeed produces 12V DC.  So, I can only assume it does not have enough current.  Either it does not put our 1.25A as advertised, or the Pulse actually need more than 1.2A. 

 

[jbr1971]

 
So, while we are in the LPS topic...
 
I received the cheap LPS from ebay.  Alas, the Pulse does not work with it.  It turns on, but it is not recognized by the computer.  
 
I checked and it indeed produces 12V DC.  So, I can only assume it does not have enough current.  Either it does not put our 1.25A as advertised, or the Pulse actually need more than 1.2A. 

 
The Pulse doesn't need more than 1.2A, because the LPS maxes out at 1.2A if I remember correctly.

 

[walfredo]

 

 
So, while we are in the LPS topic...
 
I received the cheap LPS from ebay.  Alas, the Pulse does not work with it.  It turns on, but it is not recognized by the computer.  
 
I checked and it indeed produces 12V DC.  So, I can only assume it does not have enough current.  Either it does not put our 1.25A as advertised, or the Pulse actually need more than 1.2A. 

 
The Pulse doesn't need more than 1.2A, because the LPS maxes out at 1.2A if I remember correctly.

That is what I thought.
 
BTW, how can I measure the current I am getting from the LPS?  I have a multimeter but IIUC I need to be in series with the circuit to measure current.  How can I do that?

 

[jbr1971]

 
That is what I thought.
 
BTW, how can I measure the current I am getting from the LPS?  I have a multimeter but IIUC I need to be in series with the circuit to measure current.  How can I do that?

 
Sorry, I was referring to the Geek LPS. Unfortunately I don't know enough about electronics to know how to measure the current.

 

[miceblue]

WOW! Weeeeeell then.... I was talking to someone on YouTube and I was pointed to this:
https://www.facebook.com/lachlanlikesathing/photos/a.162220127294334.1073741828.161940560655624/379307232252288/?type=1&theater

Well, my Light Harmonic Geek Pulse arrived today after a very long wait. While the unit looks the part, unfortunately it seems my unit is faulty. The front display LEDs flicker and the unit sends nasty pops and crackles to whatever headphone is plugged in, regardless of volume settings. The crackling is very loud and I am lucky I did not destroy a piece of sensitive gear with it. These problems all occur even if there is no input connected to the unit, and I tested a different power supply to no avail. I can't seem to find anyone else reporting the same issue, so it might be an isolated fault. I've opened up a ticket with LH and hopefully there will be a good resolution. EDIT: Oh yay, it appears that the crackling has blown the left driver of the Takstar Pro 80. Joy.

Is this Schiit Audio Asgard vs K 702 version 2?

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCZ-AJQOiDg[/video]




Not exactly good news for LH since Lachlanlikesathing is a pretty popular headphone person on YouTube, Facebook (I don't usually check Facebook), and actively posts on Reddit.



And it looks like that kind of damage is NOT LH's fault.
http://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000547879-geek-pulse-setup-and-user-guide

*** IMPORTANT NOTE ***

When the Geek Pulse is turned on and off there will be a popping noise sent through the headphone output, as well as all line outputs. These are the power caps in the signal chain charging and discharging. This is a conscious design decision to not add a buffer as it would affect the sound quality.

It is recommended that the Geek Pulse be left on at all times as it will keep the components warm, providing the optimal sound quality. However, if a power off/cycle is required, be sure to unplug headphones and/or power down the preamp/amp/active speakers to avoid any potential damage.

LH Labs will not be held responsible for any damage to equipment due to this design implementation.

***/IMPORTANT NOTE ***

 

[bitsnbytes]

And, it is 12v...

 
Doc, if you're handy with a solder iron, ask Alvin111 which components you need to replace inside.
 
I don't know if there are any electronics repair shops in your neighborhood, but I think it's just a simple conversion to 5v (provided it's in the hands of a capable person). You do need to have a barrel to USB female cable afterwards though.

 

[bitsnbytes]

And it looks like that kind of damage is NOT LH's fault.
http://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000547879-geek-pulse-setup-and-user-guide

 
Was there a warning that came with the item inside the box?