[ZGLISZCZ]

Heh yeah, he sent me those over PM after I asked if he could do some measurements when I first started. I ended up doing a rough model of the driver just as a measurement holder while I did the waveguide instead of checking the picture in my inbox 20 times a minute heh.

I should make a rough full driver (well frame type thing) model for other people to use on their designs. I'm sure there are people with good cad programs who can do better then I did. The domes on the top of mine were litterally the smallest arcs sketch up could handle.

I guess we'll see howthe current design is. I have that feeling everything is wrong about it

 
I had this picture but I always need to check everything by myself. Im sure BMF did lot more precise measures (with more precise tools also) but those mismatch are probably because moulding. when you compare sizes it seems like they suppose to be without any fractions in sizes but they do have them Im making bit different waveguides. Yours seems to look pretty nice, I have feeling that they might have bit sharp shape but maybe that will actually work. rear ends of wings have really sharp shape, well my knowledge is really weak;D but there is only way to learn

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

   
I had this picture but I always need to check everything by myself. Im sure BMF did lot more precise measures (with more precise tools also) but those mismatch are probably because moulding. when you compare sizes it seems like they suppose to be without any fractions in sizes but they do have them Im making bit different waveguides. Yours seems to look pretty nice, I have feeling that they might have bit sharp shape but maybe that will actually work. rear ends of wings have really sharp shape, well my knowledge is really weak;D but there is only way to learn

 
There's plenty of room at the experimetation table. A common goal...(many?) differnent approaches...share results, here. Everyone Wins!

 

[htr2d2]

I just take a small amount of the oil, a drop or two, rub it between my fingers, then start stretching the lip of the pad that stretches over the cup, gradually increasing the amount of force I use until the slack I've created seems about right. It really does make the material more pliable and easier to stretch. Then, wipe off the excess oil and start stretching the pad over the ear-side baffle. 1 set takes ~30 minutes for me to put on (usually I'm watching TV or listening to music), and removing them and putting them back on isn't nearly as difficult after you've conditioned them like this.

Use a very small amount of oil, a little goes a long ways with that stuff.

 
= Update =====================
Using the mineral oil was not really working for me. Probably because I had no clue how to stretch without destroying the pads.
 
HOWEVER, I considered the materials, plastic, and its properties. I was able to install the pads simply by wrapping them in a heating pad for fifteen to twenty minutes which made the pads pliable. Stretch the pad a couple times, reheat, then install with a bit of care.They look great and are very comfy!
============================

So, I got a new pair, but it is not going well. Using the mineral oil and stretching, but I have spent at least 30 mins on each and still are not fitting. Also, I am getting small tears on the edges.
 
Any chance of a picture one that shows the correct amount of stretch and further help?
 
Frustrated and appreciate any guidance.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

There's plenty of room at the experimetation table. A common goal...(many?) differnent approaches...share results, here. Everyone Wins!

Sharp is good, my original design was all rounded, figured it would spread the sound more then guide it.


Unless you mean the perimeter of the guides.... Heh then yes, I could deffinatly extend the line down to make a slope vs the square ledge....

As for fragile, unless your ear cartalage is really ultra laser sharpened hardened tungsion carbide, I don't think they'll break much once installed, and once glued.


But yes deffinatly, I just made mine as a starting point for better modelers to go with. I'm excited to have bee a part of opening a new level of t50rp modding

 

[ZGLISZCZ]

Sharp is good, my original design was all rounded, figured it would spread the sound more then guide it.


Unless you mean the perimeter of the guides.... Heh then yes, I could deffinatly extend the line down to make a slope vs the square ledge....

As for fragile, unless your ear cartalage is really ultra laser sharpened hardened tungsion carbide, I don't think they'll break much once installed, and once glued.


But yes deffinatly, I just made mine as a starting point for better modelers to go with. I'm excited to have bee a part of opening a new level of t50rp modding

I'm sure they will work. I was bit sceptic about 3d printed wave guides for fostex because I thought they will be more expensive to print and I was thinking more about making them from wood in similar way than the one BMF did but with different profile, something like this: http://www.sklep.modelarnia.pl/galerie/n/natarcie-balsowe-5x5-nie_803.jpg or http://ecuadorbeaches.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Ecuador-Balsa-Surf-Boards.gif (only the right side) Im doing mine in different way but I will explain it better after finishing them.
 
Another thing is I was not sure about people interest, I made something like fazor replacements for lcd2 and BMF mentioned them on Audeze thread, and from what I saw there was no interest at all. Seems like people need to pay super extra for new feature to appreciate it

 

[GrindingThud]

I have not had time to get a set printed for my LCD-2.2, but intend to and when I do, I'll post it over in the LCD-2 thread.

I'm sure they will work. I was bit sceptic about 3d printed wave guides for fostex because I thought they will be more expensive to print and I was thinking more about making them from wood in similar way than the one BMF did but with different profile, something like this: http://www.sklep.modelarnia.pl/galerie/n/natarcie-balsowe-5x5-nie_803.jpg or http://ecuadorbeaches.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Ecuador-Balsa-Surf-Boards.gif (only the right side) Im doing mine in different way but I will explain it better after finishing them.

Another thing is I was not sure about people interest, I made something like fazor replacements for lcd2 and BMF mentioned them on Audeze thread, and from what I saw there was no interest at all. Seems like people need to pay super extra for new feature to appreciate it

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

I'm sure they will work. I was bit sceptic about 3d printed wave guides for fostex because I thought they will be more expensive to print and I was thinking more about making them from wood in similar way than the one BMF did but with different profile, something like this: http://www.sklep.modelarnia.pl/galerie/n/natarcie-balsowe-5x5-nie_803.jpg or http://ecuadorbeaches.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Ecuador-Balsa-Surf-Boards.gif (only the right side) Im doing mine in different way but I will explain it better after finishing them.

Another thing is I was not sure about people interest, I made something like fazor replacements for lcd2 and BMF mentioned them on Audeze thread, and from what I saw there was no interest at all. Seems like people need to pay super extra for new feature to appreciate it

Not sure why those LCD guides that BMF posted cost so much, but shapeways is cheap, use laser 3D printers, so support structures and smoothing is almost unnessesary.

If I were to print them myself not would cost maybe 10 cents not including the acetone bath.

And yes we'll see how they sound. Although in not sure if the material will matter much. They just need to reflect sound in the right direction. I dont think its muxh like a speaker box or something that material is everythibg

 

[fleasbaby]

Staining the parts for my next Fostex build (version 3 now). Improved baffle design (friction fit, no screws), cups from one piece of wood instead of two...

 

[ZGLISZCZ]

Not sure why those LCD guides that BMF posted cost so much, but shapeways is cheap, use laser 3D printers, so support structures and smoothing is almost unnessesary.

If I were to print them myself not would cost maybe 10 cents not including the acetone bath.

And yes we'll see how they sound. Although in not sure if the material will matter much. They just need to reflect sound in the right direction. I dont think its muxh like a speaker box or something that material is everythibg

wave guides for lcd's are lot bigger and thats the reason. you can download file and print it whenever you like, place where BMF was printing his wave guides was the cheapest including delivery in USA from what I can remember. If you decided to print yours using laser 3d printer you dont need to print those 3 guides separately. I also dont think material makes big difference, I mentioned balsa because there is many already profiled balsa pieces for aircraft models and because its cheap and easy to sand.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

wave guides for lcd's are lot bigger and thats the reason. you can download file and print it whenever you like, place where BMF was printing his wave guides was the cheapest including delivery in USA from what I can remember. If you decided to print yours using laser 3d printer you dont need to print those 3 guides separately. I also dont think material makes big difference, I mentioned balsa because there is many already profiled balsa pieces for aircraft models and because its cheap and easy to sand.

Well the LCD ones were $29. The T50RP ones were about $7 for the pair

And I originally tried printing in multiple peices, but they charge a flat rate for each peice. (Like $1.50 or something) so the price was more like $13 just for one, so $26 for a pair, hence why I had to make the little part trees. To make shapeways "think" its one peice. Kinda counter-intuitive. Takes the same space, but yes more material, but ends up being cheaper

If I was printing them myself I could just print separate peices no problem, don't need any support structure since they are all just printed flat

 

[Schokolade bar]

Do you guys think it's worth buying the mrspeakers lambskin pads for these? In addition, what about the Audeze LCD pads?

 

[Schokolade bar]

Actually, to clarify I also wanted to know if the Audeze pads would fit without modifications akin to the SRH840 pads?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I uploaded a link to Google Drive for ARTA Setup Guide and Pictorial for Beginners.
 
It's located in Post #1 of this thread in Chapter 4 of the Table of Contents.
 
ARTA is a powerful audio suite of measurement tools and alternative to REW. ARTA generates FR Magnitude and Distortion graphs as well as very slick looking CSDs. I hope my guide makes ARTA easier to setup for everyone.
 
Kudos and High 5's go out to hans030390 and stratocaster for helping me find my way.
 
Cheers,
 
~ BMF
 
An edited version is now available at the same location as described, above. Anyone who has trouble downloading the Google Drive document can PM their email and I'll send a pdf. 

 

[ts8169]

Just curious which mods contribute most to closing the headphone up?  Closing bass ports / Stuffing with cotton or wool / mass loading baffles.....  As an entry level modder, I would suspect all of these (some contributing more than others).  What other steps would contribute?
 
Also, has anyone ever tried experimenting Scotch Brand 2228 electrical tape in a mod?  It's somewhat popular in the mountain bike community for frame protection as it's pretty tough stuff.  Thick & rubbery.  The adhesive is very strong however so if I were to experiment I'd probably layer over standard electrical tape first.  Just throwing that one out there.

 

[GREQ]

  Just curious which mods contribute most to closing the headphone up?  Closing bass ports / Stuffing with cotton or wool / mass loading baffles.....  As an entry level modder, I would suspect all of these (some contributing more than others).  What other steps would contribute?
 
Also, has anyone ever tried experimenting Scotch Brand 2228 electrical tape in a mod?  It's somewhat popular in the mountain bike community for frame protection as it's pretty tough stuff.  Thick & rubbery.  The adhesive is very strong however so if I were to experiment I'd probably layer over standard electrical tape first.  Just throwing that one out there.

If the goal is sound isolation, the paxmate lattice mod was EXTREMELY isolating.
Placing more on the outside of the shell would surely increase the effect.