Flashlight-Fi (LED & Conventional)
Apr 20, 2013 at 3:03 PM Post #784 of 828
Quote:
Which brand is the most reliable ?  I think one of my flashlights was destroyed by heat.  


There's not really a single most reliable, but Surefire, HDS, McGizmo, Prometheus, Malkoff, etc are well-known for their reliability. Stick to brands that don't overdrive their parts. Simple features, thermal regulation, and potting of the electronics also helps.
 
Apr 20, 2013 at 9:52 PM Post #785 of 828
I hope rechargeable CR123 3.7v won't ruin my Surefire Fury.  
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Apr 21, 2013 at 8:39 AM Post #786 of 828
Quote:
I hope rechargeable CR123 3.7v won't ruin my Surefire Fury.  
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Uhh two of those will for sure lol. One 17670 will result in lower output, but not by much and thats rechargeable.
 
May 9, 2013 at 3:36 PM Post #788 of 828
Heat dissipation is a serious issue, for anyone who has tried to build homemade LED flashlights.  I use thermal epoxy to mount my LED's on aluminum heat sinks and use them bare to get better performance than a store-bought flashlight.  Does anyone have a better way of making homemade flashlights?
 
May 9, 2013 at 3:36 PM Post #789 of 828
Also, I recommend using the lower color temperature LED's because even though their brightness and efficiency ratings are lower, yellowish light reveals more detail than bluish light.
 
May 12, 2013 at 2:10 AM Post #793 of 828
Quote:
Heat dissipation is a serious issue, for anyone who has tried to build homemade LED flashlights.  I use thermal epoxy to mount my LED's on aluminum heat sinks and use them bare to get better performance than a store-bought flashlight.  Does anyone have a better way of making homemade flashlights?

I remember reading somewhere in the specs that thermal epoxy doesn't conduct heat as well as thermal paste. On the mag that I modified, I used thermal paste in the middle and applied some regular epoxy around the edges to fix the led. Since thermal paste can conduct some electricity if it's really thin, I used a mounted LED rather than a bare one.
 
May 27, 2013 at 10:37 AM Post #794 of 828
I just ordered an EagleTac D25a Mini. I was going to get the click interface version, but after reading some comments and comparing the two, I think the simpler twisty control scheme will be better for my typical needs. That said, the titanium clicky version looks pretty nice.
 
May 27, 2013 at 11:10 PM Post #795 of 828
Quote:
I just ordered an EagleTac D25a Mini. I was going to get the click interface version, but after reading some comments and comparing the two, I think the simpler twisty control scheme will be better for my typical needs. That said, the titanium clicky version looks pretty nice.

 
I have the D25C clicky with the XM-L2 and I was hesitant about the clicky interface at first, but I'm glad I went with the clicky. It works really well with the 2 mode groups, where you can turn the light directly on high or low depending on whether the head is loosened or not. 
 

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