Eddie Current DIY amplifier "Monolith"
Aug 13, 2013 at 5:06 PM Post #107 of 172
Sounds like something on the + side only, the - voltage seems about right.
 
I had some voltage questions when I was building the power supply, Craigs directions:
Check the voltage drop across the series resistor to the zener to see if the Zener is working. Then measure the voltage at the zener. The output from the transistor emitter should be .6 volts less than the zener voltage.
 
Aug 13, 2013 at 6:03 PM Post #108 of 172
^
 
You probably have a 14V zener installed.
 
1) Also check the voltage at the top of the big cap, just after the rectifier/bridge.  You should measure over 16V, and under 25V.  It should be around 20-22V with a 15VAC transformer.
2) Measure the voltage drop across the 1ohm resistor.  If the drop is disproportionately large, compared to the negative rail, you have something wrong in your amplifier build and it's pulling lots of current.  I would be surprised if something didn't fry if this is the case.
3) If you remove the amp from the PSU, you should have similar voltages on the positive and negative rail.
4) If that's all OK, the zener voltage drop is OK, then the transistor in the PSU is likely borked.  Make sure it's installed correctly.
 
Aug 14, 2013 at 6:04 AM Post #112 of 172
That's nothing like an Icelandic Baker, right?
wink_face.gif

 
Quote:
see Swedish chef.

 
Aug 14, 2013 at 12:30 PM Post #116 of 172
I liked Kermit and Fozzie.  Statler and Waldorf were up there too.  Waka waka!
 
BTW, since you're on the thread.  How do you like the amp?  It looks meh, but perhaps it sounds better than one would think.
 
Aug 14, 2013 at 5:39 PM Post #117 of 172
Well
It looks like my R2 is borked.
I replaced R2.
Then the output on the + side is 32 something.
Ive got following measures
c6 15.36v
d2 15.87v
 
 
c5 32.04v
d1 32.07v
 
Is my d1 borked too?
 
Aug 14, 2013 at 6:53 PM Post #118 of 172
Quote:
Well
It looks like my R2 is borked.
I replaced R2.
Then the output on the + side is 32 something.
Ive got following measures
c6 15.36v
d2 15.87v
 
 
c5 32.04v
d1 32.07v
 
Is my d1 borked too?

 
Resistors don't normally fry, but it does look like d1 is borked now.  Double check that the transistor is working too.  There should be a 0.5V-1.0V drop from D1 to the part of R7 that points toward the transistor (or the output of the emitter).
 
Your DC voltage is awfully high.  What's the AC you're feeding it?  What size caps are in those positions?  According to the schematic and BOM, those are 25V caps.  You'll likely be replacing them soon.  25V is marginal there, as an unloaded 15V transformer can reach that limit, but 32V is way high.  Your AC is about 23V.  Is that transformer really 15VAC?
 
Aug 14, 2013 at 7:36 PM Post #119 of 172
Quote:
 
Resistors don't normally fry, but it does look like d1 is borked now.  Double check that the transistor is working too.  There should be a 0.5V-1.0V drop from D1 to the part of R7 that points toward the transistor (or the output of the emitter).
 
Your DC voltage is awfully high.  What's the AC you're feeding it?  What size caps are in those positions?  According to the schematic and BOM, those are 25V caps.  You'll likely be replacing them soon.  25V is marginal there, as an unloaded 15V transformer can reach that limit, but 32V is way high.  Your AC is about 23V.  Is that transformer really 15VAC?

R2 is fried for sure. It's charred and resistance is way greater than 100.
I used the transformer in the BOM it yields 35vac or 17vac.
 
Sep 19, 2013 at 3:26 PM Post #120 of 172
Weird transformer problem.
I dont know if it's unlucky me or everyone else.
I bought the exact transformer according to BOM, wired as 30vac.
The output is 38Vac! And my home voltage is ~125Vac.
The first time I thought it's a defective product so I get another one free from mouser.
Guess what it's the same thing!! 38Vac.
Anyone else ran into this problem?
 

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