[Packdemon]

I've been trying to do this for about a week now, but I can't seem to get it right. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BeatsWork]

  I've been trying to do this for about a week now, but I can't seem to get it right. Any help would be appreciated.

 
Can you be a bit more specific as I'm not sure what the issue is? Do you literally mean a bare wire with no insulation or just proper way to terminate? When you say jack do mean female or male termination? Mono or stereo?

 

[Packdemon]

I should have been more specific. Well, I just meant that the ends would be bare with the rest being insolated. And, want my speakers (which are subwoofers) to both be playing mono (both channels playing in both subwoofers simultaneously). It doesn't matter how it terminates really, and rather than soldering on my own 3.5mm jack to a wire I actually meant cutting of the one of the heads on each of one of my existing cables instead. I also have a whole lot of cables, solder, speaker wire, and heat shrink if I want to make any extensions if necessary. 
 
These would be the cables that I'd be using (unless if you think that I need more):

 
 
And I'd be connecting them to these subwoofers:

 

[Packdemon]

I'm actually confused on how I am supposed to wire them I guess. This subwoofer especially confuses me is this one (it only has one side for wiring unlike the other one):

 
 
 
Could you finish my diagram (with microsoft paint or something) to show me how I should wire them?:

 
 
 
Maybe I could use something like these:

 

 

 

[BeatsWork]

1st off - what device are you going to use to drive these speakers?  It would be very unusual for a device to output sufficient power to adequately drive speakers from a 3.5mm jack.
 
Assuming the device has enough power by far the simplest route would be to snip off the ends of the cables attached to the Y splitter.
 
Each should have three wires.  The common ground (-) is typically bare and the other two Red & White although this can vary.
 
Connect unshielded (-) wires to - terminal of each speaker.
 
Connect Red wire to + of one speaker and White to + of the other.
 
Again - I'm only telling you HOW to do it not that it's a good idea to try and drive speakers off something meant to power headphones

 

[Packdemon]

  1st off - what device are you going to use to drive these speakers?  It would be very unusual for a device to output sufficient power to adequately drive speakers from a 3.5mm jack.
 
Assuming the device has enough power by far the simplest route would be to snip off the ends of the cables attached to the Y splitter.
 
Each should have three wires.  The common ground (-) is typically bare and the other two Red & White although this can vary.
 
Connect unshielded (-) wires to - terminal of each speaker.
 
Connect Red wire to + of one speaker and White to + of the other.
 
Again - I'm only telling you HOW to do it not that it's a good idea to try and drive speakers off something meant to power headphones

I'm going to use 1 or 3 of my Objective 2 headphone amplifiers to drive them for now, I though maybe that I'd get cleaner audio using those (if I'm wrong please tell me now). I also don't need them too be to loud, they are literally going to be (well one of them already is) attached to the bottom and back of my chair. I'm basically going to be using them with my modified T1 Custom One Pro Headset, so I can feel my chair rumbling when I hear (base) audio. I also have a separately powered subwoofer in front of my footrest.
 
And...wait, this whole entire time it was the ground wire that was negative? I thought that red was right or positive, white/black was left or negative, and that ground was just ground. I'm too used to soldering headphone drivers, they don't need ground at all (pretty much optional). I could be wrong about that too though... Well, in any case that was a surprise. I was wondering why it was working when I had the ground touching negative back when I tried it by accident, and I thought it was a mistake, too!
 
This is how I literally thought it was:

 

[Packdemon]

Is that middle one an extra ground then?

 

[Packdemon]

I might try a 2.7 surround-esk setup one day, with the 2 being my headphones.

 

[miztahsparklez]

No. That is not good. Lol. You need an amp...


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[Packdemon]

No. That is not good. Lol. You need an amp...


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Would anything bad happen if I don't use a speaker amp (instead of my headphone amp)?

 

[BeatsWork]

  Would anything bad happen if I don't use a speaker amp (instead of my headphone amp)?

Save yourself   some grief and buy a cheap speaker amp. This would be quite adequate http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020a-tripath-class-t-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-300
 
Or go to local Pawn shop and buy  a $30 receiver which would have advantage of tone control to send only lower frequencies to the subs.
No matter what you do realize the subs are going to sound terrible without enclosures right?
 
You would be much better off for your intended purpose to use something like this http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tt25-16-puck-tactile-transducer-mini-bass-shaker-16-ohm--300-388?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
 
Two of these in parallel would present 8ohm load which could be driven by above mentioned amps.

 

[miztahsparklez]

Agreed^ headphone amps are meant to drive high impedance headphones. Hooking up speakers in parallel will cause your headphones to have almost no power at all, as the amp will be consumed by the speakers (path of least resistance!). It will sound terrible. Lol. If you want the "feel" get some bass shakers with the same amp as recommended above. Then you can rock out with your good sounding headphones and still get the bass kick in the chair.


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[Packdemon]

Agreed^ headphone amps are meant to drive high impedance headphones. Hooking up speakers in parallel will cause your headphones to have almost no power at all, as the amp will be consumed by the speakers (path of least resistance!). It will sound terrible. Lol. If you want the "feel" get some bass shakers with the same amp as recommended above. Then you can rock out with your good sounding headphones and still get the bass kick in the chair.


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The Amp that I use for my headphones is different than the one that I use for my subwoofers. I have multiple Objective 2 amplifiers running through the same ODAC. I am definitely going to go with your guys's advice, but I'm still curious would the amps that I currently use for the subwoofers damage over time or is the reason that the audio will just sound terrible?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
 
 
 
 
Quote:

 

  I'm actually confused on how I am supposed to wire them I guess. This subwoofer especially confuses me is this one (it only has one side for wiring unlike the other one):

 
 

Ummmm...you might want to check up the specs on that subwoofer as it might be a dual voice coil model, and each coil could be 4ohms or 2ohms - that is way too low for any headphone product, and neither would that produce enough output unless it's designed to also work as a speaker amp, like the Schiit Ragnarok and AudioGD Precision1. It's likely to be a dual 4ohm though since the sticker says 8ohms, but wired in series. Oh and the other sub could be DVC too, it just put the terminals on opposite sides.

 

Where'd you get this sub from anyway? If it came from some kind of enclosed sub, like a passive pro audio sub, then it's likely wired in series. If it came from or was designed for a car audio system that increases the likelihood of it being a DVC design also since car audio prefers current amps and low impedance drivers. Like subwoofer mono amplifiers that pour 1,000watts if not more into 2ohm loads because some people like everyone to have people envy how often they crack their windshields that they'd wake people up just driving down every street (that or because car people party in parking lots, like in F&F, and it's a lot easier to just open the trunk than haul pro speakers that run off 240volts).

 

You'll need to get a proper amp, and no, I wouldn't go with a "cheap speaker amp" as suggested by BeatsWork since this could be a dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm subwoofer. You can wire them in series, but even if the 4-ohm sub can end up as an 8-old load in that wiring configuration, that "cheap speaker amp" will only be able to use one channel. Wiring it in stereo will give that "cheap speaker amp" a 4-ohm load (if not a 2-ohm load) in each channel. Bad idea either way. Get a subwoofer plate amp like those sold by PartsExpress, and measure the impedance of the coils first that way you can be sure to get the right kind of amp (ie some of the subwoofer plate amplifiers might not be able to drive a 4-ohm load/2+2ohm in series load). Past that, you need to check the sub's specs again and build a proper enclosure for it, making sure that the box and the port are of the proper size to get the response you want. This is why you really should have the manual and specs for any speaker you're working on.

 

Or you can save yourself a lot of soldering and carpentry (and lots of sawdust) and just blow $100 to $200 on a Monoprice or Dayton Audio powered sub. I mean, just buying the plate amp is around $75 to $150 (especially if you need one that drives 4ohm loads), then you need to buy MDF and possibly tubes if you want a tube port instead of a slot port, then terminals. But you can't just go with bare wood, so at bare minimum you're gonna need some flat black spray paint on the enclosure, or coarse carpet (the kind they use in a car's luggage compartment). That can end up as a potentially ugly subwoofer with the wrong port tuning that costs a lot more money and sweat than just paying for a powered sub plus the shipping.

 

 

More reading here on DVS designs: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VuKO4PNANTV/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_dual.html

 

 

 

 
And I'd be connecting them to these subwoofers:

 

I hope you mean either of those, and not at the same time - using two different subwoofers can cause more problems than it can solve. At best you use a woofer to handle upper bass (up to 8in, usually less) and then use a 10in with thick, high roll rubber surround long throw units (lower freqs means longer throw to sound louder, and it's alright since it's less cycles; that's why B&W midrange speakers have nearly no visible surrounds, as do nearly all tweeters) if not larger in a properly tuned box to reach down to 20hz, and even then you'll end up having to figure out a proper crossover structure. This is a lot easier to do in a car because aftermarket processors that can run off a 12v power supply come with DSP chips that can do digital crossover networks, but there are other reasons (that will be too complex to explain unless you want me to) why these devices have that.

 

[Packdemon]

Here are the links for the subwoofers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071HY42K and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L296X2
 
I'm kind of broke right now, so I'd like to work with what I have right now, and I'll buy upgrades later (when my finances allow).