[sharktopus]

Check the specs on the connector and the cable the cable will have an overall diameter (OD) spec, the connector will have a max wire size spec.

The boot of the connector is supposed to be tight, so you may just need to worksheet wire into the boot.

Worksheet wire into boot??  My main issue is that the cable clamp part is too small, i guess.

 

[Arty McGhee]

So I'm trying to make some fancy-pants cables with interchangeable ends (e.g. 4-pin XLR or TRS, etc,etc). Until I looked at the plastic piece on my rean mini 4-pin XLRs that grabs the cable. As far as I can tell, there is no way my star quad cable is gonna fit in there. How do Y'all make this work? The only thing I can think to do is to strip a bit more of the sheath off and then use heat shrink to replace it,which should be a bit thinner in diameter. Here's a photo of my conundrum with the two included mini pieces on the right of the cable, and for comparison on the left one from a regular-size XLR.
ok

ok
 
if you look at the connectors you have about 1/2" or more to work with 
what you do is strip off about 1/2 inch of the outer insulation and shielding
then you need to slide the screw on end over the stripped end and onto the main cable
it goes short end first so the threads face the stripped end the tip is rubber it will expand
it may help to wrap a small piece of masking tape around the end of the wire
next take the larger strain relief (probably the blue one) and slip it over the end
of the stripped wire so the pointy end faces the piece you already slipped on
strip the ends and solder the connector part on then the outer metal piece slides
over the soldered on part then the  metal clip slips on and mates to the connector
its keyed to only fit one way, slide the blue piece to meet the clip and into the metal part
it may take a bit of fiddling but it should all got together without having to force anything
then slide the threaded part down and screw it into the metal end, it helps to practice
a few times before soldering...
 
hope this helps 
good luck

 

[Arty McGhee]

 
the blue part is made to expand you can see one side is open
slide it on or pry it open with a screwdriver
when you screw down the boot (be careful not to twist if you look closely i broke the blue wire off)
its kind of ingenious the boot holds pressure on the blue strain relief which holds everything together
while putting n0 pressure on the solder joints

 

[Paladin79]

Here is a finished one, jacket was removed but inner shield left in place, adhesive heat shrink tubing was used to insure the cotton braid stays in place.
Quote:

 
 
the blue part is made to expand you can see one side is open
slide it on or pry it open with a screwdriver
when you screw down the boot (be careful not to twist if you look closely i broke the blue wire off)
its kind of ingenious the boot holds pressure on the blue strain relief which holds everything together
while putting n0 pressure on the solder joints

Very good explanation Arty. That blue jacket lock mechanism is the same one Neutrik uses in xlrs and 1/4 inch connectors. It is one of the reasons I prefer this product. If you do not have something like this you would have a little metal clamp that is supposed to grip the jacket; those do not work very well and you run the risk of the clamp digging into the cable causing a short.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Check the specs on the connector and the cable the cable will have an overall diameter (OD) spec, the connector will have a max wire size spec.


The boot of the connector is supposed to be tight, so you may just need to worksheet wire into the boot.

Worksheet wire into boot??  My main issue is that the cable clamp part is too small, i guess.

Sorry. iPad auto correct again

Work the wire into the boot.

 

[Paladin79]

Sorry. iPad auto correct again

Work the wire into the boot.

The boot will expand to accept the wires. If ever you get into a situation where a boot or plastic housing is just too small and the rest of the connector will work, it is possible to drill some of them out a bit, use a reamer, or as a last resort a hot soldering iron tip works wonders. Be sure to clean the tip immediately though if ever using one to melt plastic. These techniques should not be needed in this case.

 

[Paladin79]

This may be slightly off subject but here are a few photos of the wire inside headphone that lies between the headphone cable and the driver. I am replacing some very tiny wire because I changed these 32 ohm headphones into 250 ohm and it would not be right to leave such tiny wire in the path of a high current amp. Second photo is the proper use of solder lugs, completed solder joint on the right, lug about to be soldered on the left. Note how I totally fill the hole with solder and have the wire crimped through it for maximum strength. Bottom photo is just the wire going to new drivers from the 3.5 mm jack on one side. Total headphone conversion time, 1.25 hours. I am testing them now. I tacked the driver in place with hot glue on four sides so that I can go back in and tweak things. I also converted the headphones from closed to semi open, I may open them a bit more. So far I am impressed with the sound and they are totally functional but, dialing the exact sound I hope to achieve will take a little time. I basically put a half inch hole in the cup to open them and ground down the old screw posts to the new drive would fit, notched the top for a centering tab on the driver and all is done. I already have a replacement set of headphones on the way for $65 but those may resemble Beyerdynamic T1's when complete, 600 ohm most likely.

 

[Allanmarcus]

 

 
I sometimes (not always) put a small bit of heat shrink on each wire when I make a balanced cable. I don't imaging it adds too much value, but it sure looks clean. My utilitarian theory is that it might protect the joint and might protect agains tiny insect that eat solder that might crawl into the connector. Does anyone else do this?
 
 
The pic below shows what I mean. It's not my best work. It's possible the first balanced connector I soldered; it's part of an adapter.

 

[Paladin79]

   
I sometimes (not always) put a small bit of heat shrink on each wire when I make a balanced cable. I don't imaging it adds too much value, but it sure looks clean. My utilitarian theory is that it might protect the joint and might protect agains tiny insect that eat solder that might crawl into the connector. Does anyone else do this?
 
 
The pic below shows what I mean. It's not my best work. It's possible the first balanced connector I soldered; it's part of an adapter.

​I will use it at times on stranded wire if there is a chance enough movement might cause a short or to add strength to a connection. There generally has to be a logical reason for me to use it, for strength I will definitely add hot glue unless there is a really good strain relief built in. (I especially use it around clamp type strain relief.) I am likely to use heat shrink under those to protect them from digging through the jackets of individual wires. Since it is internal, looks do not factor into it much for me but utility does.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Thanks Tom.
 
I'm bored and putting together a list of places to get DIY stuff. Here's what I have so far. I'm maintaining the list on the site linked in my signature.
 
Anyone else have a good place to get stuff?
 
List of places for general supplies:

1. Markertek 
2. Redco
3. DigiKey
4. Have Inc.
5. Harbor Freight
6. HomeDepot or Lowes or your local hardware store
7. Amazon
8. eBay
9. Parts Connexion
10. Parts Express
11. Mouser Electronics
12. Allied Electronics
13. MonoPrice (more for pre-built stuff and speaker wire)
14. Cables for Less (more for pre-built stuff)

Speciality

1. Furutech
2. PlusSound
3. Double Helix
4. LunaShops (last resort as they stuff is slow to get to you and poor quality)
5. Paracord Planet
6. Wirecare (for sleeving)

 

[Paladin79]

  Thanks Tom.
 
I'm bored and putting together a list of places to get DIY stuff. Here's what I have so far. I'm maintaining the list on the site linked in my signature.
 
Anyone else have a good place to get stuff?
 
List of places for general supplies:

1. Markertek 
2. Redco
3. DigiKey
4. Have Inc.
5. Harbor Freight
6. HomeDepot or Lowes or your local hardware store
7. Amazon
8. eBay
9. Parts Connexion
10. Parts Express
11. Mouser Electronics
12. Allied Electronics
13. MonoPrice (more for pre-built stuff and speaker wire)
14. Cables for Less (more for pre-built stuff)

Speciality

1. Furutech
2. PlusSound
3. Double Helix
4. LunaShops (last resort as they stuff is slow to get to you and poor quality)
5. Paracord Planet
6. Wirecare (for sleeving)

​Nice of you to mention Cables For Less Allan, if I ever get some free time we hope to offer more DIY headphone cable stuff, we do a ton of custom work but not as much in headphones right now. Gotham can be a good source for some wire, FullCompass can surprise you with specialty items. Peerless Electronics in Louisville is great for soldering stations, tools and some cable but I am not positive they sell to end users.
. I am catching the NCAA tourney and listening to the headphones I just finished, they are impressive for so little work lol.

 

[docholliday]

   
If it's the MMCX connector version, pinout is the same. Pin is signal, shell is ground.
 
 
If you're referring to the older Westone one that JH, Westone, Ultimate Ears, Unique Melody, etc.... use, then this is your pinout:
 
Left Front Pin: Channel -
Left Rear Pin:Channel +
Right Front Pin: Channel -
Right Rear Pin: Channel +
 
 
... Also refer to the diagram on this post:
 

Has anybody noticed that the UE Custom pinout is different that both of those? The "UE" on that chart is for the TF10 - the left side is correct for the customs, but the right side would be mirrored to the left (flipped). Or, in other words, opposite polarity from "normal" 2-pin connectors (JH).


 

 

[sharktopus]

So when Y'all are using the rean, etc. mini-XLRs, what cable are you using?  I have the standard star quad from both mogami and canare, and both seem to be 1-2mm larger than the largest jacked diameter that rean says works with their XLRs.  I have verified this myself my dint of spending about forty minutes trimming bits off of the clamp/chuck part, and other such things.  How do you make this work?  Or is the answer just buy some skinnier cable?

 

[Allanmarcus]

  So when Y'all are using the rean, etc. mini-XLRs, what cable are you using?  I have the standard star quad from both mogami and canare, and both seem to be 1-2mm larger than the largest jacked diameter that rean says works with their XLRs.  I have verified this myself my dint of spending about forty minutes trimming bits off of the clamp/chuck part, and other such things.  How do you make this work?  Or is the answer just buy some skinnier cable?

I don't think many feed quad cable into a mini XLR. That said, mini quad, Mogami W2799, had an OD of 3.2mm. That should fit.

 

[sharktopus]

Ahhh  That should definitely work.  I'll give it a try for my next cable.