DIY Cable Gallery!!
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:08 PM Post #12,766 of 16,312
I've seen this mod before. Easiest would be with TRS plug but i suppose you could use something else.  I would recommend it if you ever take your grados out for portable use to prevent the cables above the Y from inevitably getting tangled up.
 
You can buy new cable for around $0.50/ft ~ $4
new jack for $1
assorted heatshrink ~$3
hot glue ~?
solder ~?
 
really shouldnt cost you more than $20 assuming you are starting with some basics like a soldering iron and hot glue gun.  I would ditch that old stock cable, you wont regret it. I believe this is the trs plug you are looking for. http://www.redco.com/Neutrik-NYS-230.html
 
you can get parts from markertek.com or redco.com.
 
 
Thanks Keopele19 for the tips and the links!
4$ is indeed pretty cheap for few foot of cable but will it improve the sound?
 
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:12 PM Post #12,767 of 16,312
How long does it take you guys to get the outer shielding off of the Mogami wire?
 
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:24 PM Post #12,768 of 16,312
  How long does it take you guys to get the outer shielding off of the Mogami wire?

 
Not too long once you get the hang of it, just be patient at first.
 
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:25 PM Post #12,769 of 16,312
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:31 PM Post #12,770 of 16,312
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:32 PM Post #12,771 of 16,312
Sep 8, 2013 at 11:35 PM Post #12,772 of 16,312
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Sep 9, 2013 at 12:50 AM Post #12,776 of 16,312
My ue600vi recable, which had cheapo stock cables that failed within just a couple months of use.  I only took the one photo before finishing, but hopefully this will help people to replace the cables for what is otherwise a great value set of buds.
 
with a razorblade, cut the rubber strain relief right where it meets the plastic housing (carefully, you'll need it for later).  Pry the plastic housing open, and you'll find the single armature which is form-fitted inside the enclosure, with an attached soft silicon nozzle.

 
 
After cutting the old cable and desoldering the armature leads, it's a pretty straight forward recable, you'll even be able to save that rubber strain relief (covered in adhesive-lined shrink tubing below).  I used some crazy glue to ensure the housing stays put.  It was surprisingly easy to take apart, and I wanted something a little more solid other than those tabs in the above photo.  Ideally, something between hot glue and crazy glue like epoxy would have been best.  Reassembly after soldering (and after testing the drivers are working, of course) is as follows: Knot in cables for strain relief, enclosure resealed and glued, old rubber strain relief slid back up cable to back of plastic enclosure, shrink about 2-3 inches of 1/8-in clear tubing for ear hook, covered by a small piece of 1/4-in adhesive lined shrink tubing for added security. 

 
 
The Y is very simple, infact you don't need any shrink tubing at all, but I opted for some 1/8-in clear tubing.  I attempted to form the tubing around the split, but since my stuff is only 2-to-1, it didn't really conform to the cables the way I wanted to.  It sort of flattened out as I partially heated, clamped with pliers, partially heated, clamped with pliers, etc... Ideally, you'll want 1/4-inch 3-to-1 adhesive lined for this split, but I had none on hand and this sufficed.

 
Switchcraft 3.5mm TRS plug.  1/8-in clear tubing underneath adhesive lined 1/4-inch underneath more adhesive lined 1/4-inch to give it a tighter fit, more strain relief (this is traditionally where IEM cables fail), and a better looking plug - I hate that look when there is tons of play where the wires enter the sleeve

 
What you'll need:
soldering iron and solder (duh)
wire strippers
small needlenose pliers
glue (hot and crazy, get it?)
stripped mogami 2893 mic cable
1/8-in heat shrink
1/4-in adhesive lined heat shrink
razor blade or sharp knife
steady hand
 
What would make it even better:
steadier hand
epoxy or similar
work bench with helping hand clips/magnifying glass
some 3-to-1 heatshrink, preferably adhesive lined
not having that fourth beer
 
Sep 9, 2013 at 9:09 AM Post #12,777 of 16,312
   
Sorry for asking a quick question. 

 
If you have a quick question about a specific cable that has been posted, that is ok (unless it becomes a discussion).  Your question was random and definitely better for the other thread where you post quite often.
 
Sep 10, 2013 at 2:58 AM Post #12,778 of 16,312
Well here is a my first attempt at a diy cable. It is using some neutrik 1/8 plug which i forgot and a redco ta3f. The cable is spc from btg audio.





Definitely could have improvements but not too terrible for a first try i think (or at least hope anyways lol)
Thanks to everyone that helped me over on the questions thread.
 
Sep 10, 2013 at 4:37 AM Post #12,779 of 16,312
Well here is a my first attempt at a diy cable. It is using some neutrik 1/8 plug which i forgot and a redco ta3f. The cable is spc from btg audio.





Definitely could have improvements but not too terrible for a first try i think (or at least hope anyways lol)
Thanks to everyone that helped me over on the questions thread.

 
Good job.  It looks good. Especially for a first try not to mention that it looks very good in general. 
 

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