[penmarker]

The product lineup might be end of life already so I doubt they'll come up with replacement/upgrade power bricks for the T1. They do sell replacement bricks for their other products and the connectors look the same - voltage might be a different thing altogether.

It would be nice if they got a desktop PSU for the T1 like the Fireflies tube PSU.

 

[GirgleMirt]

First of all, just buy some cheap chinese or russian tube for replacement to be sure that it is not just faulty tube (You can`t tell faulty tube just by looking at it).
Secondly, open up Your Aune T1 and look for any visible damage to PCB components (capacitors firstly as they are rubbish on original T1 and after 5y no wonder if they gave up working).
Thirdly, look for any other "fried" signs on resistors, chips etc.
Also, not sure if T1 will let line-in sound pass through T1 when Aune wall-brick is dead... but check it anyway.

Got the chinese tube, plugged in, same! No sound... Opened up the aune to see if there was any blown caps, at first glance everything looked fine, but there's a chip which has some strange residue looking thing on top. (labeled RL1) Could this be it? Damaged/burned/chip? At first I just



Wasn't really able to check the other side though, you're just supposed to pop the top with pressure from the bottom with a screwdrive? Those aluminum tolerances seem pretty damn good and there's almost no give...

 

[GirgleMirt]

Here's a better picture (click for larger)



looks like this is it: https://www3.panasonic.biz/ac/e/search_num/index.jsp?c=detail&part_no=ATQ209
Product name TQ Relays
Details Single side stable type, Standard PC board terminal, 5V DC

Booo! I just tried cleaning it up with some Q-Tip and lighter fluid and it cleaned up really well, so it doesn't appear to be the chip that leaked from the top (well bottom) as it cleaned up well... (if it burned up the plastic under it would have been damaged but it was completely clear). But yeah I guess I"ll try to take the top off maybe something leaked from the other side!

Ok managed to pop the top. Everything looks fine, from the other side, there was just a sort of 'powder' residue thing; which would well have been just some dirt from the factor or whatever (very fine powder stuck on the board..)

 

[CoiL]

I`m actually surprised to see that Your T1 have Panasonic FC caps in it (seem to be from pics). That`s good.

But if new tube isn`t working too, then I don`t know whats wrong with Your unit by just looking @ pics. And as You say everything looks ok, then....

Let some professional electronic to check and search for fault.

 

[GirgleMirt]

I`m actually surprised to see that Your T1 have Panasonic FC caps in it (seem to be from pics). That`s good.

But if new tube isn`t working too, then I don`t know whats wrong with Your unit by just looking @ pics. And as You say everything looks ok, then....

Let some professional electronic to check and search for fault.

I think it's more like RIP. Around here it's 30$ just for an estimate, and you're likely looking 2-3x that amount for the fix and the part(s)... And that is if they can fix it. If not, you've just lost more $ for the estimate and more of your time ...

The amp part still works. But compared to schiit magni & Topping A30, it seemed to be the worse amplification of the 3... Guess if I'm bored one day I could try pull out the old multimeter and check the caps & resistors, but for the chips I think it's more complicated... But I'm guessing that's a few hours of metering, looking online for info & then ordering/fixing... Might just be better too look for an upgrade. It's a 5 year old $120 item after all, and in this throw away & ultra expensive repair age, just throwing things away is sadly the norm... :\

 

[CoiL]

Yeah, it`s old... but... for its price range it has lot to offer and depending on upgrade parts (mainly tubes) can sound pretty high SQ level.
Mine is also old, but I would not trade it or sell it no matter what. It just sounds damn good with my gear. Amp part of it is weakest link (basically c-moy) but output power and sound quality (depending on caps used) can be very good.

 

[HeavenNotes]

Yeah, it`s old... but... for its price range it has lot to offer and depending on upgrade parts (mainly tubes) can sound pretty high SQ level.
Mine is also old, but I would not trade it or sell it no matter what. It just sounds damn good with my gear. Amp part of it is weakest link (basically c-moy) but output power and sound quality (depending on caps used) can be very good.

Agree 100%

 

[exhale]

Hello again..

I finally got my hands on a Valvo E88CC tube. NOS. I think it's made somewhere in the early 60's but i'm not quite sure. Before it, all i had was the stock EH tube that the T1 comes with and a russian 6n23p which i got for cheap. The differences between these 2 are so few that you can't call one an upgrade over the other. Basically, both lack proper soundstage, imaging... heck, proper audio quality. After plugging in the Valvo...God damn it my mind was blown. The soundstage is huge, the overall sound is gentle, warm and no distortion (which i could hear in certain tracks, with the other 2). It's like i've changed my entire audio setup with just this one tube. I've had my doubts regarding its authenticity, since i'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to these but all my doubts and fears have been washed away. Regardless, when music came about, i knew i got the real deal. The person i bought it from was not looking to make a fortune and i got it at 45$ (which, according to some online stores and eBay, is a steal).

Either way, listening to music though a pair of Beyer Amirons and it definitely makes a huge (positive) difference. I've actually rediscovered my T1se thanks to this tube. I'm a believer in tube rolling now and i'd advice anyone who likes warm, spatial (close to pure 3D) sound with all the freqs properly balanced (who likes sibilance, resonance and muddy bass anyway?) to search for this tube. At least as far as the Amirons go, this is the real crap, right here.

Edit: Would any of you be interested in helping me identify the exact make/model/year of this tube? There are 2 markings on the lower end of the glass, in two rows... first row is "7LH(or K, can't perfectly tell)" and the second one starts with a symbol, like a reverse Delta, followed by a number, 983 or 883, again, hard to tell.

 

[CoiL]

I don`t remember much about tube codes anymore but I do recall delta sign meaning it is Philips Holland Heerlen Factory made.
For further, You need to search google. Seems like a real deal by golden pins and large ring getter.

I have 5x Siemens E88CC (GØ 1≠ 6A / GØ 1≠ 5L / EØ 1≠ 6A, grey plates, o-ring getter, gold pins):

Should last for me lifetime... along with my other ~10 really great SQ tubes ;P

But another thing if You wish to get out max SQ from that tube and Aune T1 - replace capacitors with higher quality ones. For example power supply filtering caps Panasonic FR series and for other Panasonic FC - cheap upgrade but great result

 

[exhale]

I don`t remember much about tube codes anymore but I do recall delta sign meaning it is Philips Holland Heerlen Factory made.
For further, You need to search google. Seems like a real deal by golden pins and large ring getter.

I have 5x Siemens E88CC (GØ 1≠ 6A / GØ 1≠ 5L / EØ 1≠ 6A, grey plates, o-ring getter, gold pins):

Should last for me lifetime... along with my other ~10 really great SQ tubes ;P

But another thing if You wish to get out max SQ from that tube and Aune T1 - replace capacitors with higher quality ones. For example power supply filtering caps Panasonic FR series and for other Panasonic FC - cheap upgrade but great result

Thank you for your help, kindly appreciate it.
In the meanwhile, i did some digging and as far as this tube goes, i *think* i may have gotten way luckier than i initially thought. Indeed, the delta sign is for Phillips Holland, Heerlen factory and i have found some pointers telling me that this might be one of those rare Cca. tubes. The general consensus *was* that the Cca. tubes were made by one manufacturer only, for the german post office but it later turned out that this wasn't quite true. As far as SQ and rarity goes, this seems to be one of the highest regarded tubes around. Considered extremely rare with an almost holographic soundstage. And i can attest to that! I was a semi-non-believer regarding tube rolling but this has made me rethink that. I might be wrong and i honestly don't care if i am. The SQ is more than enough, i don't need a good branding (of the tube) to enjoy it more.

Obviously, now i'm curious as to how other tubes sound. The person i bought this from lives in the same city as i do and he's been an audiophile for many years (his son plays guitar in a rock band) and he assured me that he *can* find other tubes, according to my needs. Fingers crossed

 

[CoiL]

Can You maybe post more detailed pics of Your tube (inner build, top glass, bottom, getter leg etc.)?
Your are right about tube branding as I have some tubes from another family that sound very close to my E88CC`s but cost me very little (if I recall correctly, one was Pinnacle PCC85 or 88 which should be actually early japanese made). Luckily I got very lucky and was able to grab my 5xE88CC`s only for 32€ (which are real rarity and usually cost ~250$ per tube)

But if You already have such great tube, I rather recommend (again) to upgrade Your T1 capacitors
Much cheaper improvement over falling into tube-hoarding sickness!
I recommend You to get Amperex 6DJ8 orange label, and JAN Sylvania 6922 green label, which are littlebit different signature but also very good, and call it done.

 

[exhale]

Can You maybe post more detailed pics of Your tube (inner build, top glass, bottom, getter leg etc.)?
Your are right about tube branding as I have some tubes from another family that sound very close to my E88CC`s but cost me very little (if I recall correctly, one was Pinnacle PCC85 or 88 which should be actually early japanese made). Luckily I got very lucky and was able to grab my 5xE88CC`s only for 32€ (which are real rarity and usually cost ~250$ per tube)

But if You already have such great tube, I rather recommend (again) to upgrade Your T1 capacitors

Here's hoping i won't forget about it when i get back home! Otherwise, i sure will! I'd lie if i didn't say i'm at least a bit curious about it. The thing about upgrading the capacitors (which i've also given thought) is that i lose the warranty. And it's a 2 year warranty. Would the improvement be *that* great as to be worth it?

 

[CoiL]

Would the improvement be *that* great as to be worth it?

Well, that`s Your decision but improvement is definetly noticeable (depending which caps You actually have in Your unit as Aune T1 uses different ones over time and some can be good but some crap). If You wish to keep warranty, then don`t do it and just enjoy Your great tube.

 

[CoiL]

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-opamp-thread.432749/page-421#post-14608984

Opamp change into AD8599ARZ

Next probably going to try OPA1612AID & ADA4084-2ARZ.
Also, will try to change DAC differential opamp if I find proper candidate.

 

[exSpire]

Hey guys
I saw a lot of recommendations for the Amperex 6DJ8 OG
is this the one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Match-1-pa...h=item3ad9e7567e:g:LTQAAOSwmCVY-GJA:rk:1f:0

Or is this it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6DJ8-ECC88...h=item5b4f9ad9c9:g:6d0AAOSw34Fbszvf:rk:4f:0

Also is it a fair purchase? I don't wanna pay much more than that, it would be my second tube after the original one that came with the Aune T1. From what I learned, this tube is a great all-arounder and should be great for me.

Also saw good things here about Siemens\Valvo EC88, Mullard ECC86 and a few others, but its hard to pinpoint the real vs fakes one out there.
I can buy from eBay \ Amazon or TubeDepot.. if it helps.

Would appreciate if someone could send me in the right direction. Thank you.