Asus Essence One Headphone Amp/DAC (CeBIT 2011)
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:05 AM Post #1,606 of 3,573
Quote:
My unit came with 49720 at XLR buffer one year ago (not complaining :) ). Swapped for 49720 HA's for a long time there. Testing LT 1028 at I/V and OPA627AU at LPF. They give highly detailed, precise (may I say Studio) sound. The best combination so far was AD797br at I/V with LM4562NA at LPF. They produce natural sound without exagerating anything (no sss), all details are there, sound stage is on it's best and there is no fatigue at all.  

I'm pretty sure i've tried that set-up before and still ended up preferring the muses.
 
I'll give it another go and see if my opinion changes.
 
Maybe the 2nd time around would drastically lower the "sss".
 
Tim
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:13 AM Post #1,607 of 3,573
Quote:
My unit came with 49720 at XLR buffer one year ago (not complaining :) ). Swapped for 49720 HA's for a long time there. Testing LT 1028 at I/V and OPA627AU at LPF. They give highly detailed, precise (may I say Studio) sound. The best combination so far was AD797br at I/V with LM4562NA at LPF. They produce natural sound without exagerating anything (no sss), all details are there, sound stage is on it's best and there is no fatigue at all.  

I tried that combination as well, the problem was that compared to the 49720ha the 4562 and 49720na are not as detailed. Right now i am trying to find something darker sounding for the buffer to balance out the brightness of the 49720ha. Right now i am using the 2132 which is quite good but the end result is still a little too bright.
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:17 AM Post #1,608 of 3,573
Hey Tim, because you switch-out you opamps alot do you have your muses permanently mounted on DIP IC sockets? I find it rather difficult switching out without bending the lags
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:22 AM Post #1,609 of 3,573
Quote:
Hey Tim, because you switch-out you opamps alot do you have your muses permanently mounted on DIP IC sockets? I find it rather difficult switching out without bending the lags

 
I have two different removal tools.
The OP-AMP Remover, and when i can't find it, i use a standard clamp.
It has to have the word "Durabuilt" on it, or else it's not built to be durable.
 

 
I'm going to put this picture here, because i thought it looked pretty funny,
 

 
 
 
As for the mounting to DIP8's.
I remove them from the board and put them on adapters during my testing processes.
Once i'm done, i put them back onto the Essence One's default DIP 8 socket.
 
I have eight MUSES01, and two MUSES02  and a bunch of adapters for all of my op-amps.
 
 

 
 
Here are the op-amps that i have.
Working on getting some more, but as of now, my wallet is running dry, so i need wait for rain-fall.
 
LM4562, LME49720NA, LME49720HA, LME49710HA, OPA627, MUSES01, MUSES02, AD825, OPA2132, AD797, NE5532, OPA2111
 
Tim
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:38 AM Post #1,610 of 3,573
Quote:
 
I have two different removal tools.
The OP-AMP Remover, and when i can't find it, i use a standard clamp.
 
Tim

I have the standard IC clamp and still manage to bend them
blink.gif

So it won't damage them using long nose pliers?
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 6:52 AM Post #1,612 of 3,573
Quote:
I have the standard IC clamp and still manage to bend them
blink.gif

So it won't damage them using long nose pliers?

ASUSXONAR is correct.
Rocking it back and forth makes it bend and ultimately even more stuck.
 
I use long nose pliers with some tissue paper in between so that it doesn't scrape the side of the op-amps.
Make sure you clamp it hard and pull it upward and straight out.
Aim the plier to be exactly on to of the op-amp that you want to remove.
At such a fast pull, going a little in the wrong direction might be fatal.
 
 

 
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 7:00 AM Post #1,613 of 3,573
Quote:
You've got to get them out straight upwards really. Any (lateral) rocking movements will bend the legs. 

 
Quote:
ASUSXONAR is correct.
Rocking it back and forth makes it bend and ultimately even more stuck.
 
I use long nose pliers with some tissue paper in between so that it doesn't scrape the side of the op-amps.
Make sure you clamp it hard and pull it upward and straight out.
Aim the plier to be exactly on to of the op-amp that you want to remove.
At such a fast pull, going a little in the wrong direction might be fatal.
 

No probs I will try my best next time round. Thanks for the help
wink_face.gif

 
Feb 19, 2013 at 8:15 AM Post #1,615 of 3,573
Quote:
I tried that combination as well, the problem was that compared to the 49720ha the 4562 and 49720na are not as detailed. Right now i am trying to find something darker sounding for the buffer to balance out the brightness of the 49720ha. Right now i am using the 2132 which is quite good but the end result is still a little too bright.


I've tried 49720ha at LPF and it sounds to me brighter than 4562 that has more volumious low end. 49860 is even more bright. The question is if that brightness gives artifitial details ?
This can be good for some types of (electronic) music. For evaluating opamps I use acoustic recordings with no amplified instruments, later checking with other.
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 8:23 AM Post #1,616 of 3,573
Quote:
I've tried 49720ha at LPF and it sounds to me brighter than 4562 that has more volumious low end. 49860 is even more bright. The question is if that brightness gives artifitial details ?
This can be good for some types of (electronic) music. For evaluating opamps I use acoustic recordings with no amplified instruments, later checking with other.

Please may you elaborate, thank you.
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 12:00 PM Post #1,619 of 3,573
Quote:
I've tried 49720ha at LPF and it sounds to me brighter than 4562 that has more volumious low end. 49860 is even more bright. The question is if that brightness gives artifitial details ?
This can be good for some types of (electronic) music. For evaluating opamps I use acoustic recordings with no amplified instruments, later checking with other.

I compared the 49720na and ha and i found that the ha was brighter but even with dark sounding instruments clarity and separation seemed better so it is probably not just the added brightness. I also listen to mostly acoustic recordings when testing sound quality. I am goin to try the 49710 once the adapters arrive.
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 12:10 PM Post #1,620 of 3,573
Quote:
You've got to get them out straight upwards really. Any (lateral) rocking movements will bend the legs. 


This is the best tool for removing any size chip that I've found that doesn't require a lot of force and doesn't damage the IC.  Stick under one side and lift up a bit, go the the other side and lift up a bit ... repeat until chip is free.
 
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/96800

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top