[wiatrob]

SSerl has just informed me that his ac plug doesn't match his wallwart cord. The transformers I secured for kits have 2.1mm plugs, slightly different than the 2.5mm called for by the BoM. I have both size jacks here, and it looks like I mixed up the one in SSerl's kit.

No excuses - but I did sort more through more than 6000 parts for this run

I'd like to encourage anyone with kit questions to ask them in the announcement thread (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/cth...ilable-414932/) or better yet on the Spruce Canyon forum or directly to me via email. The goal is to keep this thread focused on build questions and issues.

 

[wiatrob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh, I was working off 2015a not b. I see the relay circuit resistor changes, and will try that. Thanks for the heads up.

A slight change in the sensitivity of the e12 because to cover a wider range of operating conditions.


-Bill

 

[srserl]

Sounds nice! My kit arrived Friday night, and I finished soldering the board yesterday. Last night I started to wire it up and discovered that the AC adapter plug did not fit the jack as Waitrob described above. This afternoon I hard wired everything up so I could test and I am happy to say it passed and I am now listening.

The jack was the only real issue I had with the entire build. I also had to mod the heatsink slightly to fit, but that is always a possibility on any build and only took a minute or two.

Buying the kit saved hours of time ordering parts, so it is a great value. I really like the perforated top option.

Unfortunately, I won't have time to finish the case work until weekend after next. I just wanted to post my successful build experience from the new kits. That should give me enough time to find a few different tubes to roll!

Scott

 

[nux]

Has anyone tried to mount the bi-colour LED under the tube socket? Just wondering whether to bother trying to do that, or just solder a seperate red/green LED directly on the board.

 

[sachu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by srserl /img/forum/go_quote.gif This afternoon I hard wired everything up so I could test and I am happy to say it passed and I am now listening. Scott

Congrats on the build Scott.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nux /img/forum/go_quote.gif Has anyone tried to mount the bi-colour LED under the tube socket? Just wondering whether to bother trying to do that, or just solder a seperate red/green LED directly on the board.

I believe that's how you do it...take one LED and mount it under the tube socket..something that I am planning to do as well

 

[tacitapproval]

Well, I changed R1E, R2E, and R4E to the new BOM values. Unfortunately, this has not improved the problem I am having. The the e12 still trips sporadically. How discouraging.

edit: Ironically, the 6n1p seems to be the most stable now (I have been playing one for about five minutes and no relay trips thus far), but the 12au7 varieties trip the e12 frequently. So, the original issue I had with the e12 a few days ago is now reversed. This has been a baffling build for me at each turn.

 

[Forte]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nux /img/forum/go_quote.gif Has anyone tried to mount the bi-colour LED under the tube socket? Just wondering whether to bother trying to do that, or just solder a seperate red/green LED directly on the board.

cfcubed built the original prototype with a bi-colour LED under the tube back here http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5362796-post91.html

I put the red LED directly on the board and just put the green LED(Amber in my case) under the tube. Just make sure the LED leads are insulated and the LED securely fixed so it can't fall out and short out against the case.

 

[holland]

I put the led under the tube. It's not bright enough. My next one puts the led on the front panel.

 

[wiatrob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well, I changed R1E, R2E, and R4E to the new BOM values. Unfortunately, this has not improved the problem I am having. The the e12 still trips sporadically. How discouraging.

Sorry to hear - we'll have to wait for Runeight to chime in with more ideas as that's the limit of my knowledge. The only other things that come to mind (pardon if I already) asked:

What coupling caps are you using?

Are the output devices (BC337-25, BC327-25) the same parts specified in the Bom?

Did the e12 trip before it was cased?

I'm stable with my proto build all this evening (using 6N1P and original e12 values.)

Chin up, we'll get to the bottom of this.

 

[smeggy]

The tripping can be annoying, I hope mine doesn't do it too much

 

[tacitapproval]

I am using the upgade wima coupling caps from you.

Yes, those transistors are all from the BOM.

In terms of the e12, I was having trouble with 6n1ps tripping it a few days ago, but the 12 volt tubes were running no problem then. Now, the situation is reversed. 6n1p running stable for over an hour, but 12v tubes (12au7a, 5963, 6211) cause it to trip repeatedly.

 

[wiatrob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forte /img/forum/go_quote.gif I put the red LED directly on the board and just put the green LED(Amber in my case) under the tube. Just make sure the LED leads are insulated and the LED securely fixed so it can't fall out and short out against the case.

Exactly how I built my proto - with a nice bright amber led.

 

[cfcubed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif In terms of the e12, I was having trouble with 6n1ps tripping it a few days ago, but the 12 volt tubes were running no problem then. Now, the situation is reversed. 6n1p running stable for over an hour, but 12v tubes (12au7a, 5963, 6211) cause it to trip repeatedly.

Think you mentioned some shield bits falling on PCB & causing trouble.... It is possible that when that happened it zapped, or partially zapped, a sand part on the PCB.

Using test probes I shorted something on the 1st PCB build. And it was not enough to replace the sand I *thought* was bad (e.g. buffer TO92s). After a try at that I said scr*w it & just replaced CRDs, all TO92s in OB, E12 + splitter. And swapped out most opamps. Did this all at one time then powered it up & was fine. Worst part was placing smallish order, parts were cheap.

Quote:

Originally Posted by holland /img/forum/go_quote.gif I put the led under the tube. It's not bright enough. My next one puts the led on the front panel.

Yes it is. Mentioned this a couple times, that the BoM LED is not bright enough to lite tube but fine for panel. Most don't want a GREEN lit tube anyway

Suggest separate LEDs OR using 3mm/5mm bicolor on front panel.

 

[tacitapproval]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif Think you mentioned some shield bits falling on PCB & causing trouble.... It is possible that when that happened it zapped, or partially zapped, a sand part on the PCB. Using test probes I shorted something on the 1st PCB build. And it was not enough to replace the sand I *thought* was bad (e.g. buffer TO92s). After a try at that I said scr*w it & just replaced CRDs, all TO92s in OB, E12 + splitter. And swapped out most opamps. Did this all at one time then powered it up & was fine. Worst part was placing smallish order, parts were cheap.

I assume this is what happened. I would like to replace parts broadly as you recommend, but I am not sure which ones to replace. Are you suggesting I follow your list? I would hate to do all of this and not catch the suspect part.

Out of incessant curiosity, I really want to know why the e12 is now kicking in on 12v tubes, but stable on 6v 6n1ps, in reversal of the previous situation.

 

[cfcubed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif I assume this is what happened. I would like to replace parts broadly as you recommend, but I am not sure which ones to replace. Are you suggesting I follow your list? I would hate to do all of this and not catch the suspect part.

I can fire you over a list... It's essentially not caps (unless an electrolytic spewed or popped/raised its lid) & not resistors (unless they smoked or look fried) in OB, RS & e12. BUT may be drastic given your:
Quote:

Originally Posted by tacitapproval /img/forum/go_quote.gif Out of incessant curiosity, I really want to know why the e12 is now kicking in on 12v tubes, but stable on 6v 6n1ps, in reversal of the previous situation.

Yes, I'd have trouble letting that lie too

And there are a number of great 6.3v heated tubes for this amp, like Amperex 6dj8/6922, PQ, BB variant of same.

One general note WRT e12 trips - We do not expect nuisance trips during music, unless due to A/C line flux. E12 trips are not unexpected when powering on a connected source (or when/if it makes loud clicks) & sweeping volume quickly/full.
IOW rule out source & tube itself 1st, which we have appeared to have done here.