Grado modders go Magnum
Synesis
Head-Fier
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- Oct 8, 2015
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edit ********
About this reference post...
My original post text is shown below in teal.
The post is then divided into my initial thoughts regarding the major component parts of the headphone indicated in Red Bold:
Driver
Cup
Pads
Cable
Headband assembly
Cable
After my initial thoughts are quotes and comments from various members relevant to my original post, with the contributing member name shown in bold.
Following that are General Member Comments on Magnum V6 Drivers
Next is a quick-reference synopsis of Noob Options for DIY Magnum V6 Headphones
Last is Synesis Build Log resulting from this information.
I'll try to update as I have time. Please PM me if you run across any issues or discrepancies and I will correct or edit.
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Hello all. I’ve been lurking here for a while, have spent hours and hours researching various headphones, and have decided to jump in with both feet. Based on the appeal of DIY and what I have been able to read so far, this thread seemed to be the best place to land. I apologize in advance for a lengthy initial post. I appreciate the collective knowledge and passion represented here, look forward to participating, and hope that I can make meaningful contributions as well.
My fascination with headphones began when a musician let me hear a set of electrostatic headphones, and when I discovered Koss Pro 4A headphones when I was in college in early seventies. Thanks to an engineer who trained me about the effects of SPL amplitude and length of exposure during those years, and the use of hearing protection at loud concerts and during firearm use, my audiologist was recently surprised at how good my hearing still is. He printed a copy of the results. I highly recommend having this done, as it gives you a frame of reference with which to make more objective audio equipment selections.
My kids in recent years have been in band so I have had frequent exposure to a variety of live instruments and performances. This has rekindled my interest in duplicating these dynamics with recorded music. Since a majority of my listening time is late at night when others have gone to bed, headphones were the natural choice in the quest for realistic music reproduction.
My listening preferences have always leaned toward accuracy and reference, however I have found that some of the most technically accurate headphones can be clinical and sometimes fail to capture the realism and passion of the live event. My focus generally is on a headphone that reveals every detail within the music production, and one that adds as little coloration throughout the spectrum as possible, i.e. flat frequency response.
Headphones I have owned include the following:
Koss Porta Pro - Classic for a reason, very enjoyable listening.
Grado SR80 - original model, enjoyed many hours listening with these until they were DOA after someone stepped on them. I wish I had known about this site; could have probably salvaged them or even improved them. I immensely enjoyed the sonic signature per the Grado reputation for midrange, but lowest octave bass was missing, highest end treble was not to my expectation.
Sony MDRV6 - I found these to be durable, good reference oriented headphones for a reasonable price, but somewhat clinical in nature. Easy to see why they are prevalent as a work horse in many studios and professional applications.
Shure SRH940 - I have enjoyed these headphones quite a bit and for a closed headphone I am pretty happy with these. The narrow soundstage, characteristic of many closed headphones, and lack of body in the lowest bass registers, are the main drawbacks for me on these.
Audio Technica ATH-R70X - Ran across these NIB from a guy who won them in a golf tournament, and after watching Lachlans review of these, I figured I couldn’t go wrong for two bills. I was right. The resolution of these are great, and detail and layering even in complex passages is exceptional. Presentation rolls off a bit in the upper octaves which renders cymbals etc. as accurate but not lifelike, and I prefer a little more weight in the lowest octave, but these are exceptionally good phones.
Still in search of audio realism, I auditioned as many headphones locally as I could and discovered that price does not necessarily correlate to quality. After exhaustive research here and on other sites, the headphones of the most interest to me were the Sound Magic HP200, Shure SRH1840, Hifiman HE400S, Oppo PM3, Grado SR225e, and Alessandro MS2. I was unable to audition any of these but the SR225e (and the SR325e so I have to interpolate what I would think the MS2 would sound like based on reviews). I actually preferred the SR225e.
So this is how I wound up here. When I started reading that many of the modded phones were equalling or surpassing higher end Grados and other premium headphones, building a set of headphones became very appealing. The headphones considered were falling into the $200-500 range, so I decided to redirect these resources to building headphones instead. And hopefully make a few new friends along the way. So yesterday I pulled the trigger on a pair of the V6 Magnums.
I’m starting a business so my recreation time is limited. I have only been able to read a few hundred (lol) of the Grado related mod threads, just scratching the surface. I found that much of the info in some of the threads was out of date, with versions of various offerings no longer available, or the principals involve had moved to other interests.
So that the cumulative knowledge and experience here is preserved, and so my build may be of benefit to others researching the same subject, I hope that I can document as I go along. Due to my time constraints I will need help identifying the current vendors and availability for each of the primary components. I’ll also try to identify my thought process for each choose. I hope the information provided above will serve as context for others to interpret how relevant my decisions might be to their preferences.
(For each component part of the headphone listed below, following my original comments, are summarized in italics the responses from head-fi members on this thread and via email)
Drivers.
I feel great about the V6 Magnums given the excellent reputation of the previous versions, how they compare to other respected drivers, and the focus on constant improvement. Availability of these newest drivers was key to my decision to build. Just like how a car can only be as good as its engine, headphones can fundamentally only be as good as the driver itself, and its execution. I have emailed Symphones to get their recommendation for associated components.
fleasbaby: The Symphones drivers are a good choice. Rhydon has stated that he designed them to sound beautiful in a variety of enclosures. His desire is to make a driver that functions well under all circumstances.
joeq70: Drivers-- Snag those from Rhydon at www.symphones.com of course.
Rhydon Rayment email: Coating dry times. It has come to my attention that the white stickers we used to prevent debris from entering the driver lens during shipment could slow the coating from developing peak hardness. This has no permanent effect on the drivers performance, simply make note the drivers may take a week or so after the white labels are removed to reach their peak performance. Soldering. Positive terminal is the one right above the red dot. Simply find the red dot and solder on the metal pad directly above it. Easy.
wormsdriver: ... I just compared the V6 drivers to regular Grado drivers and they are in fact the same size. I will go back and edit my post to reflect this mistake. The reason why I thought they were smaller was because the previous Grado drivers I had on my aluminum sleeves fit very snug and the magnums didn't. I went to check back the Grado drivers and the reason is because the Grado drivers still had glue/residue from when I liberated them from the sleeves.
xylin6: [provided this link to helpful video on how to solder] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
xylin6: ...the impedance of the Magnum V6 drivers...http://symphones.com/ ...they are 32Ω .
Cups.
Auditioning the SR225e vs the SR325e was revealing to me. I found the 325’s to be too hot on the high end which I think to some degree is a function of the metal cups. I certainly like the look of machined metal, but acoustically I’m not so sure.
My son plays a Gibson SG guitar with a mahogany body and oiled finish. We have noticed how rich in timbre this guitar sounds compared to many others. I think that the finish makes a difference, as well as the wood itself. If an oiled mahogany finish can make that much difference to a guitar pickup, it stands to reason that'd oiled mahogany cup with its natural damping might pair well with headphone drivers. I like to source mahogany cups unfinished if possible. Other woods used with musical instruments may be interesting as well.
I read several threads, where spacing within the cup was critical to soundstage, but I never came away with an understanding of what the optimal spacings were considered to be.
fleasbaby: For cups, Good old Mahogany is indeed the standard. There are other more exotic species to try (I find Korina most satisfying, as well as Paduak). Some swear by Black Limba.
fleasbaby: Internal volume is indeed important. I don't think I have seen computer simulation used to build predictive models though. Grado's cups vary in length in the RS series. I think they also vary in length in the GS and PS series. Not sure though. My default I use most is 1.25 inch cup length overall. Seems to do best...I also use a rim of hot glue around the interior circumference midway between the driver and the grill. Saw old Joe Grado do something similar when upgrading his HP series cans for people. Seems to have a smoothing effect for me. I don't do measurements though, so....
Arty McGee:
these sound great much better than the v5 i sold to make these
waiting for the 3d file from rhydon, you can upload the file
to shapeways.com and they will print it for around $20
7keys:
I don't think people agree on what is the best cup to use. Sound is subjective. A couple of years ago we put together a tour of four different North American Tone-wood cups. They were passed around to a number of members to see how they would rate each one.
The results are interesting.
Take a look.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
Rhydon Rayment email: Cups. We are in the process of making a free 3d file available to our customers. If you are in need of cups or are stuck in a long wait list we will have a program in place within the next few weeks. Details are evolving but its looking like if you don’t have access to a 3d printer simply upload to https://www.shapeways.com/ and they print it for about $20 each. This cup, we’re calling it the C1 (unless we come up with something better in the mean time) will be specifically designed for use with the V6 driver. It will also have a few sonic benefits that are unique to 3d printing all of which will be published once its ready. We’re all very excited about this one, will have more on this shortly.
[regarding optimal dimensions for V6] Good question, we do have optimal dimensions- they have been designed into the 3D cup “C1” which i spoke about earlier. You are welcome to extract dimensions from it, last i checked its 44.5mm diameter by 27.8mm length.
xylin6: I especially love the wooden cups that Turbulent Labs offer http://turbulentlabs.com/vibro-cups/ but they are sold out, so i found a pair of cups i like from Yew Woodworks and the owner Clinton is willing to install the V6 drivers (a service he offers for no extra charge with the purchase of any of his cups), and that for me is a big deal because I'm just not confident enough yet with a soldering iron and don't want to ruin my V6's.
xylin6: [regarding subjective sound differences of cups]:
with the price difference in cups i think its based on the type of wood used (how rare it is and how much it costs the seller plus how difficult it is to come by and to work with) as well as the size of the cups - for example the cups i am looking at on yew woodworks hold the same size driver but are a bit larger than the turbulent cups and have a much more varnished looking finish.
as for how much difference the enclosure material makes in how the headphones sound (various woods or aluminum or plastic) i honestly can't say as this is all relatively new to me.
some people seem to think there are definite differences
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
then i've seen where others feel that it doesn't make much difference at all
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1u5jdt/what_are_your_thoughts_on_wood_cans_for_grado/
fleasbaby: Wood makes a difference. Cost is determined by availability, and how difficult the wood is to turn. Personally, I have found the medium density woods to be the best, easy to work, easy to buy, and they sound great. Harder woods sound leaner and more analytical. Some prefer that signature, some don't...this is where subjectivity comes into play. I used to like them, tastes change though...I am using Black Limba at the moment and liking it. Some more expensive woods are also just gorgeous if turned and finished correctly.
7keys:
Anyone who has actually tested tone-wood cups in a side by side comparison will tell you there is a difference. Although it depends on which ones they are testing, those that have a similar grain, weight, and density will sound similar. This is why I put together the tone-wood experiment. People were saying there is no difference so I thought it would be nice if any member who wanted could hear for themselves.
Not one person said they couldn't tell the difference.
Synesis: wood cups available at:
http://vibrolabs.com/
https://www.etsy.com/shop/YewWoodworks?ref=l2-shopheader-name
http://turbulentlabs.com/products/view-all/
some members have worked with fleasbaby to get wood cups
Some used Grado metal cups (and other Grado parts as well) available at http://www.headphile.com/page7.html
Installation video for wood cups, courtesy Vibro Labs: http://turbulentlabs.com/film/view/
Synesis: Sealing driver to cup. Leakage between the front wave and back wave of the driver diaphragm can cause phase cancellation in the bass frequencies which can deteriorate bass response, depth, and imaging. Modders seal this junction in several ways:
If the tolerance between the cup and driver is tight enough, no further treatment will be necessary.
For looser tolerances, some use BluTac, an inexpensive putty-like temporary adhesive used to put up posters, available where office supplies are sold. This option allows the driver to be easily removed later.
Some use silicone sealant, though this tends to be more permanent, and more difficult to remove.
Some use hot glue for this purpose, though dependent on the hot glue used, can make the driver difficult to remove later.
Thin self-adhesive closed-cell foam can be used as a gasket, and is supplied by some cup vendors. This allows easier removal of the driver, and more professional appearance.
Fleasbaby: I buy it in rolls from these guys: http://www.mcmaster.com Its black, about 3/8ths wide, and an eighth thick I believe. Super-cheap, works beautifully if you want a foam fit.
Pads
Of course these are new drivers, and the cups selected will affect the sound, but any observations about pads used with previous versions, or general observations about the various pads is welcome.
Rhydon Rayment email: For starters, the V6 drivers were designed to be used with Bowl Pads or L-cush as some call it. Feel free to test them with other cushions but if you feel things sound a little off give the bowls a try. The Magnum V6 drivers sound much more refined than the competition so bowls will probably not sound like what you may be used to or disliked in the past.
joeq70: Earpads--Most people use Grado L-Cush pads for their Magnums. I like HD414 pads personally, but I"m definitely in the minority. Grado flat pads are also used by some and the truly crazy use G-Cush. Since none of us has heard the V6 yet, nobody really knows which pads are ideal. I'd say L-Cush is the safest bet but I think it is fun to get several types to compare. You can get Grado pads from www.ttvjaudio.com or amazon or ebay.
Headcan: I also prefer the quarter modded Sennheiser pads. Is there anyone that still sell these ready modded and dyed black? Originally got mine from Soloz Audio, but he's no longer in business.
joeq70: Yeah, I'm thinking of giving RIT black dye a shot. I have read that some people use the dye then they use this stuff called Retayne to keep the pads black. I noticed that they make a special RIT dye now for synthetical materials.
fleasbaby: I have been using some pre-quarter-modded S-Cush I got on Amazon and have been liking them alot. The Senn pads Re awesome, they just so...yellow...
fleasbaby: I find myself using flats/quarter-modded S-Cush more often now too. Gives a richer, bassier sound.
joeq70: Okay, so I just got my bowl pads in the mail. Wow, I was mistaken about them. Now that I tried them out on my home system, not the sterile DAC at the hifi store...Big difference. Very refined sounding. Huge upgrade over the flats.
joeq70: (see his post 3519 for hybrid pad and info on sound of various pads)
Synesis: Various pads available at http://www.ttvjaudio.com/category_s/1866.htm
Stratocaster: Details his pad design with documented results: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3621 (post 3521, page 241)
joeq70: compares various modded pads at http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3621 Post 3221 on page 242
Headband assembly.
The least durable part of my SR80 was it gimbal assembly, a price paid for light weight. Worst case an SR60 could be purchased new or preferably used, but it would be nice to find a more durable headband assembly. I saw posts early in the thread about an aluminum gimbal assembly, but I did not determine if it was still available. A real leather headband is desirable for comfort, any sourcing or alternatives would be appreciated.
fleasbaby: For headbands, I now turn my cups slightly narrower than the norm to use them in the Sony MDR7502 headband. Its lightweight, durable and relatively cheaper to obtain. You also don't need to invest in a headband pad for them.
joeq70: Headband --Many people use the Sony headband that fleasbaby referenced above, but if you want a Grado headband, I recommend going to www.headphile.com and snagging deal #6, option #2. It is a nice leather headband with rod locks. I got one for my last build and thought it was the nicest overall headband I've used yet.
7keys: I'm still looking for a Sony 7506 headband. Trew audio wants $19 for US customers and $44 for Canadian customers. http://www.trewaudio.com/store/Sony-7506-Replacement-Headband-and-Cups.html
fleasbaby: Headbands, I use the MDR7502 one. It's light, good looking, and indestructible. I don't need to buy a leather pad for it. I can get it pretty cheaply by buying a used pair on eBay. It also has a narrower yoke though, so I turn my cups accordingly. Not everyone has this luxury.
Synesis: Leather headband upgrades available at http://turbulentlabs.com/products/view-all/
Installation video for leather headband: http://turbulentlabs.com/film/view/
Synesis: Helpful thread on making your own headband, also contains helpful info on headbands: http://www.head-fi.org/t/237221/tutorial-padded-leather-headband-for-grados-with-pics
Synesis: Sony MDR-V6 and Sony MDR-7506 share the same physical dimensions and these have been used by some.
The MDR-7506 / MDR-V6 measures 2" (50.8 mm) in between the pins that insert into the cups. The internal radius of the half-ring, within which the cup is mounted, measures 2-3/8" (60.325 mm). The ring and pins are moulded plastic. The pins could be filed off slightly, but the plastic cannot be bent to fit, as it returns to its original shape. So you would need to measure the cup carefully to make sure this headband would work, or have the cups machined to fit these dimensions.
fleasbaby: They can actually be bent. You need to use a hair dryer to soften them though, and be careful not to over-do it. The downside for it is that you need to make your cups just a tiny bit smaller than the stock Grado width to accommodate it. The upside of it is its indestructible, light, classy-looking, and does not require the purchase of a leather pad.
Synesis: Custom aluminum gimbals and rod block assemblies are available at http://www.martincustomaudio.com/p/sale-aluminum-gimbals-rodblocks.html however you still need the Grado headband on which to mount them I believe.
Note: As of 7/18/2015 Martin is on a hiatus for a time, and these are the only custom components he is offering at this time according to his website.
7keys:
Vivitar DJ Mixers do fit http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
xylin6:
...i did find this link -> http://www.head-fi.org/t/584891/need-help-finding-grado-replacement-headbandand on post #4 user Questhate says "If you need one from a different headphone, I'm using the headband from a Sony MDR-V150 and it fits perfectly if you file the pegs down a bit"
here are a few other possible choices mentioned earlier in post #3651 all of which should all fit the Grado cup style for around $20 or less.
for the record i didn't discover most of these myself, though read about them from other Head Fi members in this forum and thought it would be good to make a list,
- anyone who knows of other options please feel free to add to the collection.
Vivitar DJ mixers http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
WeSC Banjar http://www.ebay.com/itm/WeSC-Banjar-On-Ear-Headphones-BLACK-Compact-Folding-Design-NEW-IN-BOX-/161691799746?hash=item25a59510c2:g:w9YAAOSwymxVQ-XV
WeSC Unisex Matte Conga http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFON07G/ref=psdc_172541_t3_B00BQ16RCM
Sound Intone HD850 http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Intone-HD850-Lightweight-Stretchable/dp/B00ZK7M628/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1446910048&sr=1-7&keywords=Sound+Intone+HD850+On-Ear+Lightweight+Stereo+Headphones+black
Granvela imbson A802 http://www.amazon.com/Granvela-A802-Headphone-Handsfree-Headphones/dp/B00LN1F5LY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1447143938&sr=1-9&keywords=Granvela+imbson+A802
Rhydon via email with equedadoii:
Hope the board was able to answer your question about the headbands. Unfortunately I don’t have experience with those models however i do know the 7506 headband will work perfectly. FYI the C6 diameter at the gimbal attach is approx 55mm. With 3D printing it could vary slightly- +/- 0.1-0.2mm. Anything that works on the Grado headphones will work on the C6.
Detachable cables should be no problem, i suggest using dongles instead of hard mounting the jacks- however you could always try. Thats the great thing about DIY, its easy to imagine and implement a better solution.
wormsdriver: here's another source for wooden cups, sexy ***** gimbals, cables and even a different driver. They also had full metal cups and metal/wood cups like Grado ps500 style but I no longer see those on the website. I believe they are based out of Greece if I remember correctly.
jaywillin: i found this guy too, http://www.headphoneku.com/ Back in stock. Price by PM $40 + Shipping cost to US, Europe and Asia only USD10 by Post Indonesia
Cables.
The low cost alternative would be to use cables from an SR60, perhaps along with the headband assembly. Or headband and upgraded Grado cable from newer e series might be cost effective. This is an area where I would really need help and benefit of experience. The engineer in me is skeptical about many of the esoteric claims by some cable manufacturers. However, as noted with the wood and finish of the guitars, sometimes noticeable differences are not easily quantified. So I would have to depend on recommendations and experience with proven cable solutions, with a focus on function primarily.
fleasbaby: Cabling? Simple Mogami is the best. You are most likely right to steer clear of those who claim to have forged theirs in Mordor using the tears of a virgin Monk and calibers made from the bones of a member of the Royal Family. Strip the Mogami of its sheathing, and sleeve it in paracord.
joeq70: Cable--many options here as well. I personally don't like the stock Grado cable...unwieldy and ugly imo. If you are looking for a nice, clean, well-made cable for a low price I fully recommend this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I personally just ordered a custom cable from here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ImpactAudioCables
Send the seller Lindsay a message and explain you are doing a Grado build like Joe, and Lindsay will know what you are talking about...
Lindsay at Impact Audio just finished the cable I ordered for my Magnums. The listing below shows mine but there are many colors to choose from. Good prices for sure.Anyone who is looking for a cable and doesn't want to deal with the hassle of making it himself should check this out: https://www.etsy.com/listing/250251559/custom-infinity-series-gradomagnum-diy?ref=shop_home_active_1
wormsdriver: I really like and prefer to use Grado cables, but don't have any Grado cans on hand to canabalize and didn't wanna spend too much money so I had been researching cables. I was doing all this research when all of a sudden it hit me! Hey! I have several Grado extension cables, why not use that? I really wanted to use the 12 conductor extension cable that comes with the Gs1ke and PS1ke but being my first time messing with cables, I decided on the older thinner version. I was VERY happy to find just the regular 4 conductor cable that is exactly like on the Sr series or older Grados and it couldn't of been any easier really. 2 blue wires, one white one and one red one which is left side on Grados for some reason?
fleasbaby: Drop @PETEREK a message via his Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheAudMod?ref=l2-shopheader-name I have him do all of my cabling. Top notch work.
Synesis:
Thread showcasing HeadFi member DIY cable creativity: http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery
Some of the endless discussion on sonic differences in cables; decide for yourself, preferably by actual experience, though the intellectual discussion is entertaining, educational, and passionate for both sides: http://www.head-fi.org/t/42667/audible-differences-in-copper-vs-silver-cables
Thread showing low cost DIY silver cable and impressions in "Tenth Post"... This is also an excellent summary of one member's experience with a variety of common Grado mods: http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii
General Member Comments on Magnum V6 drivers:
joeq70: Brief Initial Impressions: HOLY BASS RESPONSE BATMAN
More impressions: To my ears, the frequency balance of these is overall quite natural. It reminds me of a more intimate, clearer sounding HD600 (with a sacrifice soundstage). Compared to previous Magnum iterations, I would place these in between the clinical X/V5 and smooth sounding V4. The V6 is more similar overall to the V4 in that it has a very nice, lush midrange. What distinguishes the V6, however, is that sub bass notes actually come through rather than just get cut off. I think the V6 has even deeper and tighter bass than the X, but sacrifices less midrange than the X does. I have been using S-Cush style pads from a 3rd party, and I totally love them. You can get them here. I went to a local hifi store to try out bowl pads and I think they sounded good, but simply not to my taste. I will report back when I get a chance to try out more pads.
wormsdriver: With very limited listening and out of my cell phone at that, no burn in, and according to Ryhdon, they might still need a week for some of the coating to dry (after removing the sticker covers), these things are VERY special.
Excellent bass response when called for, very nice imaging, lots and lots of details, vocals sound beautiful...
I can't wait to hear them evolve and also hear them out of my desktop gear. So far, so good, I'd say these are excellent, hell they sound down right exquisite! ... Ah, forgot to mention, these are very transparent also! ...and no, not just looks either!
7keys: I like them, they do have more bass than the V4's I had, which to me is a good thing. I definitely could live with these.
joeq70: It has been a good six months or so since I listened to the higher end Grados (the whole line, SR325 and up), but I want to say these are most similar to the PS500 (sorry lol). The V6 is a bit more balanced sounding overall iirc. But also mind you I wasn't terribly impressed with the PS500 when I heard it and right now I'm highly impressed with these V6s. I'd really like to hear from someone who has a fresher comparison.
Arty McGee:
i've been going back and forth between all metal V6's and HD700's
the highs and mids are similar the bass is a little better defined in the senns
but more present in the V6, i keep grabbing for the V6,
HD700 goin up for trade bait for a tube amp
fleasbaby: So they definitely sound better with a little time and the new cups. Listening to a stream from Bandcamp via my work MacBook Air, and I am really enjoying what I hear. Lots of lifelike drums, smooth highs, no sibilance, and clear, articulate mids. These are a very good upgrade to make if you're a longtime Magnum user, and a fantastic entry point for the new initiate.
7keys: I haven’t listened to my Magnum V6’s for two days; I put them on for a listen before I changed cups and found they sounded way better. It’s not that I didn’t like them before, I did, but I found I liked my SennGrado’s a bit more. But now I find the sound stage opened up with more separation between instruments, also more vibrant sounding. I was getting some WOW moments listening to music I’ve heard a hundred times before. I don’t know what accounts for it but it seems as if I’m listening to a whole other headphone.
fleasbaby: I had the same experience. The first hour was a little sad...they sounded off somehow, then all of a sudden they loosened up and they are now extremely pleasing to listen to.
joeq70: just a brief comparison I did yesterday between the V6 and some other headphones. A caveat: I used the Sunflower pads on the V6 which definitely changes the sound for the better imo.
V6 vs SR325i: The V6 is better in every respect- it is fuller sounding, has more bass, and has a better soundstage while being just as detailed.
V6 vs Audioquest Nighthawk: I also compared it to the Audioquest Nighthawk. The Nighthawk is very different sounding but is far less resolving than the V6, has a narrower soundstage, and has kind of an odd frequency response that sounds uncomfortable on some songs. The Nighthawk does have more bass, though.
V6 vs Sennheiser Momentum 2.0: This Sennheiser is very underrated because it is a stylish portable headphone. The Sennheiser sounded nice but lacked some body, resolution, and soundstage width. The V6 has much more detail and openness but lacks the sub bass of the momentum. I could live with the Momentum 2.0 as a portable headphone but it lacks too much detail on anything but the most perfectly mastered tracks to use regularly at home. Also, the Momentum's bass could be considered loose to some.
Arty McGee: [V6 in C6 1.0]
..... sound is ... well great
haven't been listening for long but bass is clearer less muddy
mids and highs bright and clear not harsh at all
instrument separation is excellent sound stage is approaching 3d
this is a temporary build, still working out a headband
drivers are much smaller than the cup, after adding a layer of adhesive felt i had
drivers fit perfectly, this must be part of the design
Synesis:
Noob Options for DIY Magnum V6 Headphones.
Least expensive and quickest way: Purchase new or used SrR60 headphones, Magnum V6 Drivers. Change out Grado drivers for V6's.
7keys remembered a post of how to remove the Grado driver from its mounting ring without damaging it so that the V6 driver can be put in its place as a direct swap; xylin6 found the post which is -> post #1177
See this video for soldering how-to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
Inexpensive headband option at about $9 (thanks 7keys):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
Least expensive custom cups: Provide upcoming Symphones cup file to shapeways.com, select material. Cost can be as little as $20-25 per cup. (These cups are designed to be acoustically inert and will add little to the sonic signature of the V6 drivers, as opposed to deliberate choice of material to interact with the sonic signature of the drivers when metal or wood cups are chosen).
For those uncomfortable with soldering, Grado headphones can be sent to Clinton at https://www.etsy.com/shop/YewWoodworks?ref=l2-shopheader-name who will handle the conversion for you for a service fee.
xylin6: [provided this link to helpful video on how to solder] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
xylin6: provides an excellent summary of noob options here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3660#post_12067002
Synesis Build Log
10/4 Ordered Magnum V6 drivers from Rydon at Symphones. 10/13 Drivers shipped. 10/16 Drivers arrived in Franklin, TN. I have corresponded with Rhydon several times before and after purchase, and find his customer service and response to be excellent. Its obvious that he enjoys and takes pride in his work.
11/5 Ordered second set of Magnum V6 Drivers.
Update: The second set of V6's ordered 11/5 arrived today 11/23. When I ordered, Rhydon had previously let me know that these would come from the second run of drivers, so the interval would be longer than when I ordered from the first run which were in stock at the time. Now that he has ramped up, the interval should be as it was with the first batch, if ordered now.
11/5 Ordered two sets of Alessandro MS1's for headband gimbal assembly. (These shipped the morning after my order was placed the night before, within 24 hrs.). There was only $20 difference in cost compared to SR60, and I wanted to check the MS1 out since reviews seem to match my listening preferences. Whatever MS1 drivers I don't use I will make available to HeadFi member who makes suitable donation to The Mission Continues https://www.missioncontinues.org/ or Team Rubicon http://www.teamrubiconusa.org/ to assist veterans. These headphones were received on 11/9. They come with a 1/4 to 1/8 adapter. The come in a Grado box and packaging with a separate label affixed which identifies it as an Alessandro MS1. Before I ordered, I verified with Alessandro, and these MS1 incorporate the latest e-series features.
11/5 Ordered Cocobolo cups from Yew Woodworks. (These shipped the morning after my order was placed the night before, within 24 hrs.). These were received 11/9. The exceeded all my expectations. The Cocobolo wood is absolutely beautiful. Fit and finish is superb. The grille on the back of the cup has an elegant finished look to it. I was surprised to see that he had included comfort ear pads with the cups. Also included is a small roll of foam tape for sealing and seating the driver in the cup, a very nice touch. Tapping on the cup, it has a significantly higher resonance than the plastic Grado cups. I can highly recommend this option to others due to their excellent workmanship, quick response, and attention to detail.
11/12 Ordered two pair of the Symphones C6 from https://www.shapeways.com/ ; one pair in Black Strong and Flexible (nylon), and one pair in Polished Metallic Plastic (alumide). This will allow me to directly compare V6 in wood cup vs. the 3d cup optimized by Rhydon for the driver.
*My experience with shapeways couldn't have been better:.
*Basically you download the file from the Symphones site to your PC.
*Then you go to shapeways and sign up for an account. Only a username and password is required. You can opt in or out of mailings.
*Once there you click on "Make" on the top menu bar.
*You then will be prompted to upload the drawing from your PC.
*At this point you can explore the various materials, and pricing is given specifically for the cup in each material.
*You can drill down using "View 3DTools" for descriptions of each material, characteristics, potential advantages and disadvantages, and production limitations for each material.
*Once you decide, you can just add it to your cart and checkout.
*Paypal is a payment option. I used WELCOME15 as a promo code and got about $5 off.
Even if you are not ready to buy, you can still create an account and explore options and cost. You can do this without creating an account, however the prices specific to the cup will not be listed, rather generic cost data.
For me personally, the shapeways site is one of the most user-friendly, navigable, and intuitive websites I have experienced. Very straight forward, and a great pairing for Symphone's similarly straight-forward and elegant website design.
I chose the Strong and Flexible material, which is nylon, for its durability and resilience.
I also chose the Polished Metallic Plastic, which is nylon mixed with metallic particles, for its visual aesthetic which I like, although the description indicated it is slightly more brittle than the Strong and Flexible. So I hedged my bet in the event the Metallic Plastic is not durable. Also, from an acoustic standpoint I wondered if the presence of the metallic particles in the nylon might affect the resonance versus the nylon alone. Metallic or mineral particles are sometimes imbedded in plastic speaker cones to change the resonance or structural nature.
One thing apparent in the C6 design is that since the V6 driver and C6 cup are developed by the same designer, the driver should fit very flush in the cup. Tweeter design in speakers very deliberately addresses reflective energy and its affect on frequency response. Care in flush mounting the tweeter (driver in this case) can make a significant difference in response, especially at higher wavelengths that correspond to the distance from the driver to adjacent surfaces and edges. With the C6 design, the cup can effectively become an extension of the V6 driver housing itself. In turn, the V6 was designed for a specific pad, so design of both the cup and driver with a specific pad offers opportunity to juggle all these variables to achieve a synergistic result.
Production on my C6's began at Shapeways before I was able to submit my cancellation, so it looks like I will have one of the few pair of Version 1.0 C6's. I'll be interested to see the changes that Rhydon makes so I can hopefully manually modify or replicate them.
Just as information for others, I placed my initial order with Shapeways on 11/12, production began on the 13th, and the site shows the projected ship date to be 11/25. Shapeways shipped both pairs of cups 11/21.
11/5 Ordered Grado L-Cush pads, since V6 drivers were designed to be used with these pads. These arrived via Amazon 11/9.
11/12 Ordered Mogami cable and Amphenol connectors from http://www.redco.com/ at 12:05 on 11/12, the order shipped FedEx Home Delivery from Stratford, CT at 2:34 the same day, and I received the order in Franklin, TN on 11/14. Many thanks to Arty McGee for his PM correspondence that helped me to decide to build my own cables, provided options for sourcing, and for his recommendations on what cables and materials to use.
11/23 Purchased some 550 paracord and heatshrink from Lowes.
I'm ready to begin a minimalist build for one set that focuses on function at a minimal cost, and also a second set that focuses more on form, visual aesthetics, workmanship, and the more esoteric qualities of wood. I'll be able to compare the two side by side to note any acoustic differences.
The minimalist approach will utilize V6 drivers, C6 cups, an MDR-7506 headband assembly, and DIY cords using Mogami cable and Amphenol connectors at a total cost of about $200.
The more esoteric set will utilize V6 drivers, Yew Woodworks cocobolo wood cups, Grado headband assembly, custom leather headband, and similar DIY cords at a total cost of about $390.
Both pair will be built for about the same price of other premium headphones I had been considering while staying within the $5-600 range.
Benefit from participation in the community here, and fun of learning as I go - priceless, and way more fun than just buying something off the shelf.
Should be interesting.
About this reference post...
My original post text is shown below in teal.
The post is then divided into my initial thoughts regarding the major component parts of the headphone indicated in Red Bold:
Driver
Cup
Pads
Cable
Headband assembly
Cable
After my initial thoughts are quotes and comments from various members relevant to my original post, with the contributing member name shown in bold.
Following that are General Member Comments on Magnum V6 Drivers
Next is a quick-reference synopsis of Noob Options for DIY Magnum V6 Headphones
Last is Synesis Build Log resulting from this information.
I'll try to update as I have time. Please PM me if you run across any issues or discrepancies and I will correct or edit.
*************
Hello all. I’ve been lurking here for a while, have spent hours and hours researching various headphones, and have decided to jump in with both feet. Based on the appeal of DIY and what I have been able to read so far, this thread seemed to be the best place to land. I apologize in advance for a lengthy initial post. I appreciate the collective knowledge and passion represented here, look forward to participating, and hope that I can make meaningful contributions as well.
My fascination with headphones began when a musician let me hear a set of electrostatic headphones, and when I discovered Koss Pro 4A headphones when I was in college in early seventies. Thanks to an engineer who trained me about the effects of SPL amplitude and length of exposure during those years, and the use of hearing protection at loud concerts and during firearm use, my audiologist was recently surprised at how good my hearing still is. He printed a copy of the results. I highly recommend having this done, as it gives you a frame of reference with which to make more objective audio equipment selections.
My kids in recent years have been in band so I have had frequent exposure to a variety of live instruments and performances. This has rekindled my interest in duplicating these dynamics with recorded music. Since a majority of my listening time is late at night when others have gone to bed, headphones were the natural choice in the quest for realistic music reproduction.
My listening preferences have always leaned toward accuracy and reference, however I have found that some of the most technically accurate headphones can be clinical and sometimes fail to capture the realism and passion of the live event. My focus generally is on a headphone that reveals every detail within the music production, and one that adds as little coloration throughout the spectrum as possible, i.e. flat frequency response.
Headphones I have owned include the following:
Koss Porta Pro - Classic for a reason, very enjoyable listening.
Grado SR80 - original model, enjoyed many hours listening with these until they were DOA after someone stepped on them. I wish I had known about this site; could have probably salvaged them or even improved them. I immensely enjoyed the sonic signature per the Grado reputation for midrange, but lowest octave bass was missing, highest end treble was not to my expectation.
Sony MDRV6 - I found these to be durable, good reference oriented headphones for a reasonable price, but somewhat clinical in nature. Easy to see why they are prevalent as a work horse in many studios and professional applications.
Shure SRH940 - I have enjoyed these headphones quite a bit and for a closed headphone I am pretty happy with these. The narrow soundstage, characteristic of many closed headphones, and lack of body in the lowest bass registers, are the main drawbacks for me on these.
Audio Technica ATH-R70X - Ran across these NIB from a guy who won them in a golf tournament, and after watching Lachlans review of these, I figured I couldn’t go wrong for two bills. I was right. The resolution of these are great, and detail and layering even in complex passages is exceptional. Presentation rolls off a bit in the upper octaves which renders cymbals etc. as accurate but not lifelike, and I prefer a little more weight in the lowest octave, but these are exceptionally good phones.
Still in search of audio realism, I auditioned as many headphones locally as I could and discovered that price does not necessarily correlate to quality. After exhaustive research here and on other sites, the headphones of the most interest to me were the Sound Magic HP200, Shure SRH1840, Hifiman HE400S, Oppo PM3, Grado SR225e, and Alessandro MS2. I was unable to audition any of these but the SR225e (and the SR325e so I have to interpolate what I would think the MS2 would sound like based on reviews). I actually preferred the SR225e.
So this is how I wound up here. When I started reading that many of the modded phones were equalling or surpassing higher end Grados and other premium headphones, building a set of headphones became very appealing. The headphones considered were falling into the $200-500 range, so I decided to redirect these resources to building headphones instead. And hopefully make a few new friends along the way. So yesterday I pulled the trigger on a pair of the V6 Magnums.
I’m starting a business so my recreation time is limited. I have only been able to read a few hundred (lol) of the Grado related mod threads, just scratching the surface. I found that much of the info in some of the threads was out of date, with versions of various offerings no longer available, or the principals involve had moved to other interests.
So that the cumulative knowledge and experience here is preserved, and so my build may be of benefit to others researching the same subject, I hope that I can document as I go along. Due to my time constraints I will need help identifying the current vendors and availability for each of the primary components. I’ll also try to identify my thought process for each choose. I hope the information provided above will serve as context for others to interpret how relevant my decisions might be to their preferences.
(For each component part of the headphone listed below, following my original comments, are summarized in italics the responses from head-fi members on this thread and via email)
Drivers.
I feel great about the V6 Magnums given the excellent reputation of the previous versions, how they compare to other respected drivers, and the focus on constant improvement. Availability of these newest drivers was key to my decision to build. Just like how a car can only be as good as its engine, headphones can fundamentally only be as good as the driver itself, and its execution. I have emailed Symphones to get their recommendation for associated components.
fleasbaby: The Symphones drivers are a good choice. Rhydon has stated that he designed them to sound beautiful in a variety of enclosures. His desire is to make a driver that functions well under all circumstances.
joeq70: Drivers-- Snag those from Rhydon at www.symphones.com of course.
Rhydon Rayment email: Coating dry times. It has come to my attention that the white stickers we used to prevent debris from entering the driver lens during shipment could slow the coating from developing peak hardness. This has no permanent effect on the drivers performance, simply make note the drivers may take a week or so after the white labels are removed to reach their peak performance. Soldering. Positive terminal is the one right above the red dot. Simply find the red dot and solder on the metal pad directly above it. Easy.
wormsdriver: ... I just compared the V6 drivers to regular Grado drivers and they are in fact the same size. I will go back and edit my post to reflect this mistake. The reason why I thought they were smaller was because the previous Grado drivers I had on my aluminum sleeves fit very snug and the magnums didn't. I went to check back the Grado drivers and the reason is because the Grado drivers still had glue/residue from when I liberated them from the sleeves.
xylin6: [provided this link to helpful video on how to solder] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
xylin6: ...the impedance of the Magnum V6 drivers...http://symphones.com/ ...they are 32Ω .
Cups.
Auditioning the SR225e vs the SR325e was revealing to me. I found the 325’s to be too hot on the high end which I think to some degree is a function of the metal cups. I certainly like the look of machined metal, but acoustically I’m not so sure.
My son plays a Gibson SG guitar with a mahogany body and oiled finish. We have noticed how rich in timbre this guitar sounds compared to many others. I think that the finish makes a difference, as well as the wood itself. If an oiled mahogany finish can make that much difference to a guitar pickup, it stands to reason that'd oiled mahogany cup with its natural damping might pair well with headphone drivers. I like to source mahogany cups unfinished if possible. Other woods used with musical instruments may be interesting as well.
I read several threads, where spacing within the cup was critical to soundstage, but I never came away with an understanding of what the optimal spacings were considered to be.
fleasbaby: For cups, Good old Mahogany is indeed the standard. There are other more exotic species to try (I find Korina most satisfying, as well as Paduak). Some swear by Black Limba.
fleasbaby: Internal volume is indeed important. I don't think I have seen computer simulation used to build predictive models though. Grado's cups vary in length in the RS series. I think they also vary in length in the GS and PS series. Not sure though. My default I use most is 1.25 inch cup length overall. Seems to do best...I also use a rim of hot glue around the interior circumference midway between the driver and the grill. Saw old Joe Grado do something similar when upgrading his HP series cans for people. Seems to have a smoothing effect for me. I don't do measurements though, so....
Arty McGee:
these sound great much better than the v5 i sold to make these
waiting for the 3d file from rhydon, you can upload the file
to shapeways.com and they will print it for around $20
7keys:
I don't think people agree on what is the best cup to use. Sound is subjective. A couple of years ago we put together a tour of four different North American Tone-wood cups. They were passed around to a number of members to see how they would rate each one.
The results are interesting.
Take a look.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
Rhydon Rayment email: Cups. We are in the process of making a free 3d file available to our customers. If you are in need of cups or are stuck in a long wait list we will have a program in place within the next few weeks. Details are evolving but its looking like if you don’t have access to a 3d printer simply upload to https://www.shapeways.com/ and they print it for about $20 each. This cup, we’re calling it the C1 (unless we come up with something better in the mean time) will be specifically designed for use with the V6 driver. It will also have a few sonic benefits that are unique to 3d printing all of which will be published once its ready. We’re all very excited about this one, will have more on this shortly.
[regarding optimal dimensions for V6] Good question, we do have optimal dimensions- they have been designed into the 3D cup “C1” which i spoke about earlier. You are welcome to extract dimensions from it, last i checked its 44.5mm diameter by 27.8mm length.
xylin6: I especially love the wooden cups that Turbulent Labs offer http://turbulentlabs.com/vibro-cups/ but they are sold out, so i found a pair of cups i like from Yew Woodworks and the owner Clinton is willing to install the V6 drivers (a service he offers for no extra charge with the purchase of any of his cups), and that for me is a big deal because I'm just not confident enough yet with a soldering iron and don't want to ruin my V6's.
xylin6: [regarding subjective sound differences of cups]:
with the price difference in cups i think its based on the type of wood used (how rare it is and how much it costs the seller plus how difficult it is to come by and to work with) as well as the size of the cups - for example the cups i am looking at on yew woodworks hold the same size driver but are a bit larger than the turbulent cups and have a much more varnished looking finish.
as for how much difference the enclosure material makes in how the headphones sound (various woods or aluminum or plastic) i honestly can't say as this is all relatively new to me.
some people seem to think there are definite differences
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
then i've seen where others feel that it doesn't make much difference at all
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1u5jdt/what_are_your_thoughts_on_wood_cans_for_grado/
fleasbaby: Wood makes a difference. Cost is determined by availability, and how difficult the wood is to turn. Personally, I have found the medium density woods to be the best, easy to work, easy to buy, and they sound great. Harder woods sound leaner and more analytical. Some prefer that signature, some don't...this is where subjectivity comes into play. I used to like them, tastes change though...I am using Black Limba at the moment and liking it. Some more expensive woods are also just gorgeous if turned and finished correctly.
7keys:
Anyone who has actually tested tone-wood cups in a side by side comparison will tell you there is a difference. Although it depends on which ones they are testing, those that have a similar grain, weight, and density will sound similar. This is why I put together the tone-wood experiment. People were saying there is no difference so I thought it would be nice if any member who wanted could hear for themselves.
Not one person said they couldn't tell the difference.
Synesis: wood cups available at:
http://vibrolabs.com/
https://www.etsy.com/shop/YewWoodworks?ref=l2-shopheader-name
http://turbulentlabs.com/products/view-all/
some members have worked with fleasbaby to get wood cups
Some used Grado metal cups (and other Grado parts as well) available at http://www.headphile.com/page7.html
Installation video for wood cups, courtesy Vibro Labs: http://turbulentlabs.com/film/view/
Synesis: Sealing driver to cup. Leakage between the front wave and back wave of the driver diaphragm can cause phase cancellation in the bass frequencies which can deteriorate bass response, depth, and imaging. Modders seal this junction in several ways:
If the tolerance between the cup and driver is tight enough, no further treatment will be necessary.
For looser tolerances, some use BluTac, an inexpensive putty-like temporary adhesive used to put up posters, available where office supplies are sold. This option allows the driver to be easily removed later.
Some use silicone sealant, though this tends to be more permanent, and more difficult to remove.
Some use hot glue for this purpose, though dependent on the hot glue used, can make the driver difficult to remove later.
Thin self-adhesive closed-cell foam can be used as a gasket, and is supplied by some cup vendors. This allows easier removal of the driver, and more professional appearance.
Fleasbaby: I buy it in rolls from these guys: http://www.mcmaster.com Its black, about 3/8ths wide, and an eighth thick I believe. Super-cheap, works beautifully if you want a foam fit.
Pads
Of course these are new drivers, and the cups selected will affect the sound, but any observations about pads used with previous versions, or general observations about the various pads is welcome.
Rhydon Rayment email: For starters, the V6 drivers were designed to be used with Bowl Pads or L-cush as some call it. Feel free to test them with other cushions but if you feel things sound a little off give the bowls a try. The Magnum V6 drivers sound much more refined than the competition so bowls will probably not sound like what you may be used to or disliked in the past.
joeq70: Earpads--Most people use Grado L-Cush pads for their Magnums. I like HD414 pads personally, but I"m definitely in the minority. Grado flat pads are also used by some and the truly crazy use G-Cush. Since none of us has heard the V6 yet, nobody really knows which pads are ideal. I'd say L-Cush is the safest bet but I think it is fun to get several types to compare. You can get Grado pads from www.ttvjaudio.com or amazon or ebay.
Headcan: I also prefer the quarter modded Sennheiser pads. Is there anyone that still sell these ready modded and dyed black? Originally got mine from Soloz Audio, but he's no longer in business.
joeq70: Yeah, I'm thinking of giving RIT black dye a shot. I have read that some people use the dye then they use this stuff called Retayne to keep the pads black. I noticed that they make a special RIT dye now for synthetical materials.
fleasbaby: I have been using some pre-quarter-modded S-Cush I got on Amazon and have been liking them alot. The Senn pads Re awesome, they just so...yellow...
fleasbaby: I find myself using flats/quarter-modded S-Cush more often now too. Gives a richer, bassier sound.
joeq70: Okay, so I just got my bowl pads in the mail. Wow, I was mistaken about them. Now that I tried them out on my home system, not the sterile DAC at the hifi store...Big difference. Very refined sounding. Huge upgrade over the flats.
joeq70: (see his post 3519 for hybrid pad and info on sound of various pads)
Synesis: Various pads available at http://www.ttvjaudio.com/category_s/1866.htm
Stratocaster: Details his pad design with documented results: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3621 (post 3521, page 241)
joeq70: compares various modded pads at http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3621 Post 3221 on page 242
Headband assembly.
The least durable part of my SR80 was it gimbal assembly, a price paid for light weight. Worst case an SR60 could be purchased new or preferably used, but it would be nice to find a more durable headband assembly. I saw posts early in the thread about an aluminum gimbal assembly, but I did not determine if it was still available. A real leather headband is desirable for comfort, any sourcing or alternatives would be appreciated.
fleasbaby: For headbands, I now turn my cups slightly narrower than the norm to use them in the Sony MDR7502 headband. Its lightweight, durable and relatively cheaper to obtain. You also don't need to invest in a headband pad for them.
joeq70: Headband --Many people use the Sony headband that fleasbaby referenced above, but if you want a Grado headband, I recommend going to www.headphile.com and snagging deal #6, option #2. It is a nice leather headband with rod locks. I got one for my last build and thought it was the nicest overall headband I've used yet.
7keys: I'm still looking for a Sony 7506 headband. Trew audio wants $19 for US customers and $44 for Canadian customers. http://www.trewaudio.com/store/Sony-7506-Replacement-Headband-and-Cups.html
fleasbaby: Headbands, I use the MDR7502 one. It's light, good looking, and indestructible. I don't need to buy a leather pad for it. I can get it pretty cheaply by buying a used pair on eBay. It also has a narrower yoke though, so I turn my cups accordingly. Not everyone has this luxury.
Synesis: Leather headband upgrades available at http://turbulentlabs.com/products/view-all/
Installation video for leather headband: http://turbulentlabs.com/film/view/
Synesis: Helpful thread on making your own headband, also contains helpful info on headbands: http://www.head-fi.org/t/237221/tutorial-padded-leather-headband-for-grados-with-pics
Synesis: Sony MDR-V6 and Sony MDR-7506 share the same physical dimensions and these have been used by some.
The MDR-7506 / MDR-V6 measures 2" (50.8 mm) in between the pins that insert into the cups. The internal radius of the half-ring, within which the cup is mounted, measures 2-3/8" (60.325 mm). The ring and pins are moulded plastic. The pins could be filed off slightly, but the plastic cannot be bent to fit, as it returns to its original shape. So you would need to measure the cup carefully to make sure this headband would work, or have the cups machined to fit these dimensions.
fleasbaby: They can actually be bent. You need to use a hair dryer to soften them though, and be careful not to over-do it. The downside for it is that you need to make your cups just a tiny bit smaller than the stock Grado width to accommodate it. The upside of it is its indestructible, light, classy-looking, and does not require the purchase of a leather pad.
Synesis: Custom aluminum gimbals and rod block assemblies are available at http://www.martincustomaudio.com/p/sale-aluminum-gimbals-rodblocks.html however you still need the Grado headband on which to mount them I believe.
Note: As of 7/18/2015 Martin is on a hiatus for a time, and these are the only custom components he is offering at this time according to his website.
7keys:
Vivitar DJ Mixers do fit http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
xylin6:
...i did find this link -> http://www.head-fi.org/t/584891/need-help-finding-grado-replacement-headbandand on post #4 user Questhate says "If you need one from a different headphone, I'm using the headband from a Sony MDR-V150 and it fits perfectly if you file the pegs down a bit"
here are a few other possible choices mentioned earlier in post #3651 all of which should all fit the Grado cup style for around $20 or less.
for the record i didn't discover most of these myself, though read about them from other Head Fi members in this forum and thought it would be good to make a list,
- anyone who knows of other options please feel free to add to the collection.
Vivitar DJ mixers http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
WeSC Banjar http://www.ebay.com/itm/WeSC-Banjar-On-Ear-Headphones-BLACK-Compact-Folding-Design-NEW-IN-BOX-/161691799746?hash=item25a59510c2:g:w9YAAOSwymxVQ-XV
WeSC Unisex Matte Conga http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFON07G/ref=psdc_172541_t3_B00BQ16RCM
Sound Intone HD850 http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Intone-HD850-Lightweight-Stretchable/dp/B00ZK7M628/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1446910048&sr=1-7&keywords=Sound+Intone+HD850+On-Ear+Lightweight+Stereo+Headphones+black
Granvela imbson A802 http://www.amazon.com/Granvela-A802-Headphone-Handsfree-Headphones/dp/B00LN1F5LY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1447143938&sr=1-9&keywords=Granvela+imbson+A802
Rhydon via email with equedadoii:
Hope the board was able to answer your question about the headbands. Unfortunately I don’t have experience with those models however i do know the 7506 headband will work perfectly. FYI the C6 diameter at the gimbal attach is approx 55mm. With 3D printing it could vary slightly- +/- 0.1-0.2mm. Anything that works on the Grado headphones will work on the C6.
Detachable cables should be no problem, i suggest using dongles instead of hard mounting the jacks- however you could always try. Thats the great thing about DIY, its easy to imagine and implement a better solution.
wormsdriver: here's another source for wooden cups, sexy ***** gimbals, cables and even a different driver. They also had full metal cups and metal/wood cups like Grado ps500 style but I no longer see those on the website. I believe they are based out of Greece if I remember correctly.
jaywillin: i found this guy too, http://www.headphoneku.com/ Back in stock. Price by PM $40 + Shipping cost to US, Europe and Asia only USD10 by Post Indonesia
Cables.
The low cost alternative would be to use cables from an SR60, perhaps along with the headband assembly. Or headband and upgraded Grado cable from newer e series might be cost effective. This is an area where I would really need help and benefit of experience. The engineer in me is skeptical about many of the esoteric claims by some cable manufacturers. However, as noted with the wood and finish of the guitars, sometimes noticeable differences are not easily quantified. So I would have to depend on recommendations and experience with proven cable solutions, with a focus on function primarily.
fleasbaby: Cabling? Simple Mogami is the best. You are most likely right to steer clear of those who claim to have forged theirs in Mordor using the tears of a virgin Monk and calibers made from the bones of a member of the Royal Family. Strip the Mogami of its sheathing, and sleeve it in paracord.
joeq70: Cable--many options here as well. I personally don't like the stock Grado cable...unwieldy and ugly imo. If you are looking for a nice, clean, well-made cable for a low price I fully recommend this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I personally just ordered a custom cable from here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ImpactAudioCables
Send the seller Lindsay a message and explain you are doing a Grado build like Joe, and Lindsay will know what you are talking about...
Lindsay at Impact Audio just finished the cable I ordered for my Magnums. The listing below shows mine but there are many colors to choose from. Good prices for sure.Anyone who is looking for a cable and doesn't want to deal with the hassle of making it himself should check this out: https://www.etsy.com/listing/250251559/custom-infinity-series-gradomagnum-diy?ref=shop_home_active_1
wormsdriver: I really like and prefer to use Grado cables, but don't have any Grado cans on hand to canabalize and didn't wanna spend too much money so I had been researching cables. I was doing all this research when all of a sudden it hit me! Hey! I have several Grado extension cables, why not use that? I really wanted to use the 12 conductor extension cable that comes with the Gs1ke and PS1ke but being my first time messing with cables, I decided on the older thinner version. I was VERY happy to find just the regular 4 conductor cable that is exactly like on the Sr series or older Grados and it couldn't of been any easier really. 2 blue wires, one white one and one red one which is left side on Grados for some reason?
fleasbaby: Drop @PETEREK a message via his Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheAudMod?ref=l2-shopheader-name I have him do all of my cabling. Top notch work.
Synesis:
Thread showcasing HeadFi member DIY cable creativity: http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery
Some of the endless discussion on sonic differences in cables; decide for yourself, preferably by actual experience, though the intellectual discussion is entertaining, educational, and passionate for both sides: http://www.head-fi.org/t/42667/audible-differences-in-copper-vs-silver-cables
Thread showing low cost DIY silver cable and impressions in "Tenth Post"... This is also an excellent summary of one member's experience with a variety of common Grado mods: http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii
General Member Comments on Magnum V6 drivers:
joeq70: Brief Initial Impressions: HOLY BASS RESPONSE BATMAN
More impressions: To my ears, the frequency balance of these is overall quite natural. It reminds me of a more intimate, clearer sounding HD600 (with a sacrifice soundstage). Compared to previous Magnum iterations, I would place these in between the clinical X/V5 and smooth sounding V4. The V6 is more similar overall to the V4 in that it has a very nice, lush midrange. What distinguishes the V6, however, is that sub bass notes actually come through rather than just get cut off. I think the V6 has even deeper and tighter bass than the X, but sacrifices less midrange than the X does. I have been using S-Cush style pads from a 3rd party, and I totally love them. You can get them here. I went to a local hifi store to try out bowl pads and I think they sounded good, but simply not to my taste. I will report back when I get a chance to try out more pads.
wormsdriver: With very limited listening and out of my cell phone at that, no burn in, and according to Ryhdon, they might still need a week for some of the coating to dry (after removing the sticker covers), these things are VERY special.
Excellent bass response when called for, very nice imaging, lots and lots of details, vocals sound beautiful...
I can't wait to hear them evolve and also hear them out of my desktop gear. So far, so good, I'd say these are excellent, hell they sound down right exquisite! ... Ah, forgot to mention, these are very transparent also! ...and no, not just looks either!
7keys: I like them, they do have more bass than the V4's I had, which to me is a good thing. I definitely could live with these.
joeq70: It has been a good six months or so since I listened to the higher end Grados (the whole line, SR325 and up), but I want to say these are most similar to the PS500 (sorry lol). The V6 is a bit more balanced sounding overall iirc. But also mind you I wasn't terribly impressed with the PS500 when I heard it and right now I'm highly impressed with these V6s. I'd really like to hear from someone who has a fresher comparison.
Arty McGee:
i've been going back and forth between all metal V6's and HD700's
the highs and mids are similar the bass is a little better defined in the senns
but more present in the V6, i keep grabbing for the V6,
HD700 goin up for trade bait for a tube amp
fleasbaby: So they definitely sound better with a little time and the new cups. Listening to a stream from Bandcamp via my work MacBook Air, and I am really enjoying what I hear. Lots of lifelike drums, smooth highs, no sibilance, and clear, articulate mids. These are a very good upgrade to make if you're a longtime Magnum user, and a fantastic entry point for the new initiate.
7keys: I haven’t listened to my Magnum V6’s for two days; I put them on for a listen before I changed cups and found they sounded way better. It’s not that I didn’t like them before, I did, but I found I liked my SennGrado’s a bit more. But now I find the sound stage opened up with more separation between instruments, also more vibrant sounding. I was getting some WOW moments listening to music I’ve heard a hundred times before. I don’t know what accounts for it but it seems as if I’m listening to a whole other headphone.
fleasbaby: I had the same experience. The first hour was a little sad...they sounded off somehow, then all of a sudden they loosened up and they are now extremely pleasing to listen to.
joeq70: just a brief comparison I did yesterday between the V6 and some other headphones. A caveat: I used the Sunflower pads on the V6 which definitely changes the sound for the better imo.
V6 vs SR325i: The V6 is better in every respect- it is fuller sounding, has more bass, and has a better soundstage while being just as detailed.
V6 vs Audioquest Nighthawk: I also compared it to the Audioquest Nighthawk. The Nighthawk is very different sounding but is far less resolving than the V6, has a narrower soundstage, and has kind of an odd frequency response that sounds uncomfortable on some songs. The Nighthawk does have more bass, though.
V6 vs Sennheiser Momentum 2.0: This Sennheiser is very underrated because it is a stylish portable headphone. The Sennheiser sounded nice but lacked some body, resolution, and soundstage width. The V6 has much more detail and openness but lacks the sub bass of the momentum. I could live with the Momentum 2.0 as a portable headphone but it lacks too much detail on anything but the most perfectly mastered tracks to use regularly at home. Also, the Momentum's bass could be considered loose to some.
Arty McGee: [V6 in C6 1.0]
..... sound is ... well great
haven't been listening for long but bass is clearer less muddy
mids and highs bright and clear not harsh at all
instrument separation is excellent sound stage is approaching 3d
this is a temporary build, still working out a headband
drivers are much smaller than the cup, after adding a layer of adhesive felt i had
drivers fit perfectly, this must be part of the design
Synesis:
Noob Options for DIY Magnum V6 Headphones.
Least expensive and quickest way: Purchase new or used SrR60 headphones, Magnum V6 Drivers. Change out Grado drivers for V6's.
7keys remembered a post of how to remove the Grado driver from its mounting ring without damaging it so that the V6 driver can be put in its place as a direct swap; xylin6 found the post which is -> post #1177
See this video for soldering how-to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
Inexpensive headband option at about $9 (thanks 7keys):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIZ88GC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NIZAUK4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SCSVDSDB6MB4NDA1KMQ
Least expensive custom cups: Provide upcoming Symphones cup file to shapeways.com, select material. Cost can be as little as $20-25 per cup. (These cups are designed to be acoustically inert and will add little to the sonic signature of the V6 drivers, as opposed to deliberate choice of material to interact with the sonic signature of the drivers when metal or wood cups are chosen).
For those uncomfortable with soldering, Grado headphones can be sent to Clinton at https://www.etsy.com/shop/YewWoodworks?ref=l2-shopheader-name who will handle the conversion for you for a service fee.
xylin6: [provided this link to helpful video on how to solder] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
xylin6: provides an excellent summary of noob options here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/3660#post_12067002
Synesis Build Log
10/4 Ordered Magnum V6 drivers from Rydon at Symphones. 10/13 Drivers shipped. 10/16 Drivers arrived in Franklin, TN. I have corresponded with Rhydon several times before and after purchase, and find his customer service and response to be excellent. Its obvious that he enjoys and takes pride in his work.
11/5 Ordered second set of Magnum V6 Drivers.
11/5 Ordered two sets of Alessandro MS1's for headband gimbal assembly. (These shipped the morning after my order was placed the night before, within 24 hrs.). There was only $20 difference in cost compared to SR60, and I wanted to check the MS1 out since reviews seem to match my listening preferences. Whatever MS1 drivers I don't use I will make available to HeadFi member who makes suitable donation to The Mission Continues https://www.missioncontinues.org/ or Team Rubicon http://www.teamrubiconusa.org/ to assist veterans. These headphones were received on 11/9. They come with a 1/4 to 1/8 adapter. The come in a Grado box and packaging with a separate label affixed which identifies it as an Alessandro MS1. Before I ordered, I verified with Alessandro, and these MS1 incorporate the latest e-series features.
11/5 Ordered Cocobolo cups from Yew Woodworks. (These shipped the morning after my order was placed the night before, within 24 hrs.). These were received 11/9. The exceeded all my expectations. The Cocobolo wood is absolutely beautiful. Fit and finish is superb. The grille on the back of the cup has an elegant finished look to it. I was surprised to see that he had included comfort ear pads with the cups. Also included is a small roll of foam tape for sealing and seating the driver in the cup, a very nice touch. Tapping on the cup, it has a significantly higher resonance than the plastic Grado cups. I can highly recommend this option to others due to their excellent workmanship, quick response, and attention to detail.
11/12 Ordered two pair of the Symphones C6 from https://www.shapeways.com/ ; one pair in Black Strong and Flexible (nylon), and one pair in Polished Metallic Plastic (alumide). This will allow me to directly compare V6 in wood cup vs. the 3d cup optimized by Rhydon for the driver.
*My experience with shapeways couldn't have been better:.
*Basically you download the file from the Symphones site to your PC.
*Then you go to shapeways and sign up for an account. Only a username and password is required. You can opt in or out of mailings.
*Once there you click on "Make" on the top menu bar.
*You then will be prompted to upload the drawing from your PC.
*At this point you can explore the various materials, and pricing is given specifically for the cup in each material.
*You can drill down using "View 3DTools" for descriptions of each material, characteristics, potential advantages and disadvantages, and production limitations for each material.
*Once you decide, you can just add it to your cart and checkout.
*Paypal is a payment option. I used WELCOME15 as a promo code and got about $5 off.
Even if you are not ready to buy, you can still create an account and explore options and cost. You can do this without creating an account, however the prices specific to the cup will not be listed, rather generic cost data.
For me personally, the shapeways site is one of the most user-friendly, navigable, and intuitive websites I have experienced. Very straight forward, and a great pairing for Symphone's similarly straight-forward and elegant website design.
I chose the Strong and Flexible material, which is nylon, for its durability and resilience.
I also chose the Polished Metallic Plastic, which is nylon mixed with metallic particles, for its visual aesthetic which I like, although the description indicated it is slightly more brittle than the Strong and Flexible. So I hedged my bet in the event the Metallic Plastic is not durable. Also, from an acoustic standpoint I wondered if the presence of the metallic particles in the nylon might affect the resonance versus the nylon alone. Metallic or mineral particles are sometimes imbedded in plastic speaker cones to change the resonance or structural nature.
One thing apparent in the C6 design is that since the V6 driver and C6 cup are developed by the same designer, the driver should fit very flush in the cup. Tweeter design in speakers very deliberately addresses reflective energy and its affect on frequency response. Care in flush mounting the tweeter (driver in this case) can make a significant difference in response, especially at higher wavelengths that correspond to the distance from the driver to adjacent surfaces and edges. With the C6 design, the cup can effectively become an extension of the V6 driver housing itself. In turn, the V6 was designed for a specific pad, so design of both the cup and driver with a specific pad offers opportunity to juggle all these variables to achieve a synergistic result.
Production on my C6's began at Shapeways before I was able to submit my cancellation, so it looks like I will have one of the few pair of Version 1.0 C6's. I'll be interested to see the changes that Rhydon makes so I can hopefully manually modify or replicate them.
Just as information for others, I placed my initial order with Shapeways on 11/12, production began on the 13th, and the site shows the projected ship date to be 11/25. Shapeways shipped both pairs of cups 11/21.
11/5 Ordered Grado L-Cush pads, since V6 drivers were designed to be used with these pads. These arrived via Amazon 11/9.
11/12 Ordered Mogami cable and Amphenol connectors from http://www.redco.com/ at 12:05 on 11/12, the order shipped FedEx Home Delivery from Stratford, CT at 2:34 the same day, and I received the order in Franklin, TN on 11/14. Many thanks to Arty McGee for his PM correspondence that helped me to decide to build my own cables, provided options for sourcing, and for his recommendations on what cables and materials to use.
11/23 Purchased some 550 paracord and heatshrink from Lowes.
I'm ready to begin a minimalist build for one set that focuses on function at a minimal cost, and also a second set that focuses more on form, visual aesthetics, workmanship, and the more esoteric qualities of wood. I'll be able to compare the two side by side to note any acoustic differences.
The minimalist approach will utilize V6 drivers, C6 cups, an MDR-7506 headband assembly, and DIY cords using Mogami cable and Amphenol connectors at a total cost of about $200.
The more esoteric set will utilize V6 drivers, Yew Woodworks cocobolo wood cups, Grado headband assembly, custom leather headband, and similar DIY cords at a total cost of about $390.
Both pair will be built for about the same price of other premium headphones I had been considering while staying within the $5-600 range.
Benefit from participation in the community here, and fun of learning as I go - priceless, and way more fun than just buying something off the shelf.
Should be interesting.
fleasbaby
Member of the Trade: Wabi Sabi Headphones
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Welcome! DIY or die! You are indeed right....there is significant benefit to be had from building your own set of cans...the amount of collective knowledge in Head-Fi on the topic is almost biblical in length and can tend to become very esoteric in nature. Never mind all of that. Dive in and enjoy the process as much as you can!
The Symphones drivers are a good choice. Rhydon has stated that he designed them to sound beautiful in a variety of enclosures. His desire is to make a driver that functions well under all circumstances.
For headbands, I now turn my cups slightly narrower than the norm to use them in the Sony MDR7502 headband. Its lightweight, durable and relatively cheaper to obtain. You also don't need to invest in a headband pad for them.
Cabling? Simple Mogami is the best. You are most likely right to steer clear of those who claim to have forged theirs in Mordor using the tears of a virgin Monk and calibers made from the bones of a member of the Royal Family. Strip the Mogami of its sheathing, and sleeve it in paracord.
For cups, Good old Mahogany is indeed the standard. There are other more exotic species to try (I find Korina most satisfying, as well as Paduak). Some swear by Black Limba.
joeq70
1000+ Head-Fier
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Welcome! DIY is a lot of fun. Since it sounds like you are committed to jumping into building Magnums, here are some personal recommendations with respect to parts:
1) Drivers-- Snag those from Rhydon at www.symphones.com of course.
2) Cups--Several options here. Some possibilities for wood cups include these makers/sellers:
www.vibrolabs.com
www.turbulentlabs.com
https://www.etsy.com/shop/YewWoodworks
http://www.ebay.com/usr/rholupat09
Also, I believe some of the forum members here make cups for sale including fleasbaby
3) Cable--many options here as well. I personally don't like the stock Grado cable...unwieldy and ugly imo. If you are looking for a nice, clean, well-made cable for a low price I fully recommend this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I personally just ordered a custom cable from here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ImpactAudioCables
Send the seller Lindsay a message and explain you are doing a Grado build like Joe, and Lindsay will know what you are talking about.
4) Headband --Many people use the Sony headband that fleasbaby referenced above, but if you want a Grado headband, I recommend going to www.headphile.com and snagging deal #6, option #2. It is a nice leather headband with rod locks. I got one for my last build and thought it was the nicest overall headband I've used yet.
5) Earpads--Most people use Grado L-Cush pads for their Magnums. I like HD414 pads personally, but I"m definitely in the minority. Grado flat pads are also used by some and the truly crazy use G-Cush. Since none of us has heard the V6 yet, nobody really knows which pads are ideal. I'd say L-Cush is the safest bet but I think it is fun to get several types to compare. You can get Grado pads from www.ttvjaudio.com or amazon or ebay.
Hope this helps!
-Joe
Headcan
100+ Head-Fier
I also prefer the quarter modded Sennheiser pads. Is there anyone that still sell these ready modded and dyed black? Originally got mine from Soloz Audio, but he's no longer in business.
Synesis
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Wow. What a community. Response already by both PM and posts is very helpful and insightful. I can already see the value of documenting these recommendations. So what I have decided to do is document the recommendations for each component part in the original post, credit the member, list and approximate cost or price range. Recommendations that become inactive can be noted later. This will help me (and others in my position) to compare alternatives, and serve as a focal point for the collective experience and opinion. However, my intent is not to highjack the ongoing discussion here but rather document response to my post. Recommendations as to the best most appropriate way to do this is appreciated.
joeq70
1000+ Head-Fier
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Yeah, I'm thinking of giving RIT black dye a shot. I have read that some people use the dye then they use this stuff called Retayne to keep the pads black. I noticed that they make a special RIT dye now for synthetical materials. I might try this too but...I don't want to blow too much money on the endeavor haha.
fleasbaby
Member of the Trade: Wabi Sabi Headphones
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I have been using some pre-quarter-modded S-Cush I got on Amazon and have been liking them alot. The Senn pads Re awesome, they just so...yellow...
joeq70
1000+ Head-Fier
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OK so..I found the guy on ebay who i bought my black hd414 pads from a few years ago. I sent him an email and will report back if he agrees to sell me a pair. The last pair he sold was July 2015 so there is hope!
Headcan
100+ Head-Fier
Is that "Shrikepc" perhaps? I also contacted him a while back and about a week ago again via ebay.
joeq70
1000+ Head-Fier
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fleasbaby
Member of the Trade: Wabi Sabi Headphones
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Wayhay! Just got my tracking number for my V6 drivers. They're on their way (and from Canada, no less...).
joeq70
1000+ Head-Fier
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Same!
I got my tracking number also also.
I'd bet I will be the first one to receive the Magnums.
I bought my Magnum V4's from Rhydon in Niagara Falls a few years ago.
I'm still looking for a Sony 7506 headband. Trew audio wants $19 for US customers and $44 for Canadian customers.
wormsdriver
Headphoneus Supremus
Same here, drivers shipped!
I've been getting ready for these, I have aluminum cups, I ordered wooden sleeves, what what about the cable?
I really like and prefer to use Grado cables, but don't have any Grado cans on hand to canabalize and didn't wanna spend too much money so I had been researching cables. I was doing all this research when all of a sudden it hit me! Hey! I have several Grado extension cables, why not use that? I really wanted to use the 12 conductor extension cable that comes with the Gs1ke and PS1ke but being my first time messing with cables, I decided on the older thinner version. I was VERY happy to find just the regular 4 conductor cable that is exactly like on the Sr series or older Grados and it couldn't of been any easier really. 2 blue wires, one white one and one red one which is left side on Grados for some reason?:rolleyes:
I've had a pair of Magnum V4 drivers I bought a few weeks ago just sitting there so I decided it was time to give them a go and see just what they sound like. I figure I'd temporarily use the housing that is intended for the V6 driverswhen they arrive, I'm sure they won't mind since they're still somewhere up there in the Great White North!
...All I'm saying is those V6 drivers better be down right amazing cause these ole V4's drivers are kicking some serious ass!
... I'll post some pics and details up in a bit, I can't do much on this damn cell phone! Stay TUNED!
......
I've been getting ready for these, I have aluminum cups, I ordered wooden sleeves, what what about the cable?
I really like and prefer to use Grado cables, but don't have any Grado cans on hand to canabalize and didn't wanna spend too much money so I had been researching cables. I was doing all this research when all of a sudden it hit me! Hey! I have several Grado extension cables, why not use that? I really wanted to use the 12 conductor extension cable that comes with the Gs1ke and PS1ke but being my first time messing with cables, I decided on the older thinner version. I was VERY happy to find just the regular 4 conductor cable that is exactly like on the Sr series or older Grados and it couldn't of been any easier really. 2 blue wires, one white one and one red one which is left side on Grados for some reason?:rolleyes:
I've had a pair of Magnum V4 drivers I bought a few weeks ago just sitting there so I decided it was time to give them a go and see just what they sound like. I figure I'd temporarily use the housing that is intended for the V6 driverswhen they arrive, I'm sure they won't mind since they're still somewhere up there in the Great White North!
...All I'm saying is those V6 drivers better be down right amazing cause these ole V4's drivers are kicking some serious ass!
... I'll post some pics and details up in a bit, I can't do much on this damn cell phone! Stay TUNED!
......Users who are viewing this thread
