SR60-Mod part II

chris_himself said:

I don't like the idea of reusing the solder, but yeah I see that working just fine!
 
My preferred method is to heat the solder up, remove the wire, give it a little time to cool again, then used a solder wick to gather up that big solder blob and use new solder. I'm not sure if that even makes a difference but I just liked a clean presentation. I then just put hotglue over it to lock it down, but that stuff could be scraped off with a penknife if I ever needed it to be.
 
Solder wick is a braid of finely stranded copper you heat up, the copper is then used as a heating element with the solder tip behind it and the braid will soak up solder, it's used to desolder stuff. You probably want to cut a length of braid so the entire roll doesn't heat up and melt the plastic spool it's stored on lol.
 
Again a bunch of people who probably have never used a soldering iron did this project, I wouldn't be so worried about it... also all you have to do is remember the colors of the wire. Grados are like caveman easy to put together!
 
I've never gone over how to recable Grados with anybody else before so I'm not sure what the popular method is. I just do it as I was taught on youtube with other electronic projects and to be neat and quick about all your work.
 
Hope that helps!
 

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jinteddy7 said:

marty's cups look like they have some kind of steampunk element to it ... and cabillas looks minimalistic as far as i can see =)

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gravitysmacked said:

Loving this thread! 
 
I'm a regular at various PC modding forums and as a noob here it's great to see the modding spirit alive and well with headphones too.

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I believe to have developed an improved (and safe) method for liberating your Grado or Alessandro drivers.  This method of liberating them, allows you to keep the driver cups in tact for future use if needed.

 

Step # 1: Prepare your wooden base block (1) and your puck (2).  The base block (1) should be approximately 2" wide by 4" long - though variations in size should not have a major impact.  The "puck" (2) should be a circular cut-out - 1 3/4" in diameter.

 



 

 

Step # 2: Get out your trusty side cutter tool.  In my case, I have a newer one - a Kobalt model that appears to be made in China from Lowes home improvement.

 



 

 

Step # 3: With the driver separated from your headphones, flip it over (face down) so the back side of the driver is exposed.  There are approximately 8 tabs in the plastic (marked with the bright green arrows).  Using your side cutter tool, snip the plastic tabs so most of the material is removed and out of the way.

 



 

 

Step # 4: Using your pre-cut block (1) and "puck" (2), along with a clamp - you really don't need too special of a clamp.  Basically, any clamp will work - as long as it has enough clearance to fit over the wooden devices and the driver thickness.  The picture below indicates how one should set up the block, puck, driver and clamp.

 



 

 

Step # 5: Start turning the clamp handle (in a clockwise direction) using a very slow motion or stroke.  The driver will "press" out of the shell as you turn the clamp, which is forcing the driver downward.   Eventually,  your driver should be separated enough from the shell, where you can remove the clamp (by backing it out using counter-clockwise turns) and also removing the block and the puck.

 

I think this should be about the safest method for doing this task.  This is basically how a machine shop presses out bearings and ball joints from a vehicle.  However, machine shops utilize hydraulic equipment, instead of clamps to do the "heavy lifting" because auto parts are usually "welded" into place through years of rust and corrosion.  But, the Grado and Alessandro driver is barely held in place once the tabs are removed and the pressing process itself just separates the adhesives that Grado used to mate the driver with the driver shell.

 

Good luck. Enjoy !!

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Quote:

gravitysmacked said:

Loving this thread! 

 

I'm a regular at various PC modding forums and as a noob here it's great to see the modding spirit alive and well with headphones too.

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I've been doing some of that too Mostly just a bit of overclocking to my rig. Got my Sandy Bridge i5 Running at 4.1Ghz.. Not too big of a deal, but neat to me. 

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mlantinen said:

I just wanted to say that this really is a great idea.  Thanks for contributing Wayne.  
 

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• Instead of using the side cutter to "nip" the 8 plastic tabs on the inside of the circular housing on the bottom side of the driver, I've found that using a craft knife is actually more efficient at cutting those nubs off.  The side cutter works, but it doesn't quite remove the whole nub.  The craft knife is a better tool for this purpose.
• When using the "puck" with the clamp - and applying pressure as you turn the clamp handle, I've found that it works better if you don't position the clamp in the middle of the "puck".  Instead, place it on the edge of the "puck" and turn the clamp handle.  This will apply more pressure to one side of the driver, making it easier to break it away from the ring.  Once one side has been loosened a bit, then adjust your clamp and move it to the adjacent side of the "puck" and start to crank on it applying pressure to push the driver to freedom from the surrounding.

mlantinen said:

 
 
 
I just wanted to say that this really is a great idea.  Thanks for contributing Wayne.  
 
 
 
 
Glad you like it!  I also started my forum action with Hardforum and Bit-tech as I used to be very much into computer hardware and overclocking/modding, etc.  I've still got my custom Coolermaster Cosmos case and high end hardware (circa 2006'ish) as well as much older home built computer from circa 2000.  Haven't touched my computer since I upgraded my hard driver to a Corsair 120 gig ssd.  Check out my gaming mice in my profile.  
 
Anywho.
-Marty
 

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sysfail said:

I've decided to go all the way and partially liberate my drivers!

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chrislangley4253 said:

 

right on. We told you to do it in the first place
 

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sysfail said:

Haha I know, but I didn't trust myself doing it. Then I decided to look up instructions on how to do a partial liberation and it doesn't even look that bad! I'm just worried about the soldering, but Martin said he could probably make full sized cups that won't require any soldering. Awesome!

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sysfail said:

Haha I know, but I didn't trust myself doing it. Then I decided to look up instructions on how to do a partial liberation and it doesn't even look that bad! I'm just worried about the soldering, but Martin said he could probably make full sized cups that won't require any soldering. Awesome!

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