> You don't need elementary algebra to figure it out.
relax. The ohms law re-arrangement was to see how much DC is deadly to dodgy in-ears.
As for an oscilloscope, sure you don't need one, it's also probably easier to measure the DC offset using a DMM (however looking at the O-scope plots is potentially a lot more informative than noticing a DC offset shift). Still, if there are cheapie $200-ish oscilloscopes around (the PC only types, with a low-ish hz-khz range) it's probably not a bad buy compared to an average DMM.
Speaking of that, any recommendations and do those exist, or did I just imagine them
> If it is a commercial product... wait this is the diy section! Go build something!
It's a DIY related question :P. Plus I'm a bit over DIY audio after fixing my SRM-1/mk2 with the help of the big two
... (yes, you can build what you want, how you want it, with what you want...No it takes a lot of time to find/order parts, not burn down the house if you're a nub like me, and then solder it up and debug. Case work connectors, panels and knobs are also potentially a pain. )
>Also, I don't know how accurate a DC meter would be vs a O-scope, and O-scope is easier to spot and more accurate. I would rely on O-scope.
The DC accuracy is quoted in the manual for any DMM you can buy. Generally it's higher than AC and sufficient to know whether you're below 10mv
>If I increase the gain of the small signal, it will start clipping at a certain point. So, if the supplie is much greater, and we know it will headphones will blow at a certain point(voltage), it would be an issue if gain is increased to max out the swing of the signal to reach the high supply voltage. So, knowing the max power, thus max voltage is helpful.
I see, thanks. That looks to be the upper bound for DCoff + Ac signal, since above that it'd be clipped?Edited by svyr - 4/29/11 at 1:32am