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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 536

post #8026 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterrogers View Post

I've heard both (LFF and I work together), and I spent some time with Mr. Speakers latest at the Village meet. Anaxilus is right - they're voiced differently, and thus it's very subjective which one might prefer. To my ears, Paradox is preferable.

 

I've heard the latest iteration of Mr. Speakers T50RP mod (which are a marked improvement and sound nothing like the early iterations), but under extremely poor conditions, even for a meet. I don't have measurements for it, so take my comments with grain of salt. Mr. Speakers T50TP mod doesn't aim for the absolute reference neutrality thing - it has rather a nicely shaped frequency response which is more fun sounding than the Paradox. However, it's still within the range of normalcy: it's not wonky, it doesn't have any odd frequency response abnormalities, etc. In other words, it doesn't have the "FAIL" label which I am so willing to attribute to the majority of headphones or IEM(s) which I have heard. In fact, it's actually quite good.

 

LFF's Paradox s/n 001 sound like a neutral reference which is a slight hair dark (actually hits the bullseye in terms of my personal preference.) The production Paradox are actually more neutral than s/n 001 (actually hard to tell between them.) I'm very partial to neutral sounding (getting more and more cranky to anything that's not as I get older). But you don't have to believe me, just see Tyll's contest results.

 

Disclaimer: I know both Mr. Speakers and LFF personally. They have come over to my place where I've performed measurements and shared measurement techniques with them.


Edited by purrin - 5/2/12 at 2:21pm
post #8027 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post


here's a cheapo hack version I did up quickly.  easy to figure out. I don't bother with retaining flaps they could be worked in on the final stitching or later.

" It's just that E-Z..."  - Tim and Eric Awesome Show

http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/19530

Always glad to see another Tim and Eric fan around! Salame!
post #8028 of 10678

BMF V8.1, Phantom Power Supply and "Mic in Your Ear" Measurement Kit, and "How To's" for setting up and using REW links to Google Docs are listed, below. You should be able to click and download these documents by clicking the associated hyperlinks. Let me know if you have any trouble doing so.

 

Note: Since I first published this set of documents, I have made advancements to BMF V8.1. The "DBV" series of mods is easier to build and sounds better than BMF V8.1.

 

You can find DBV modding tutorials with many associated graphs, step-by-step pictures, and links for modding material sources Here. Scroll down past Graph #55 for DBV #1, DBV #2, and DBV #3. I think DBV #3 sounds the best. Use "Some Additional Bass and Treble Tuning Tweaks" to get the bass and treble right where you want them without "messing with" the midrange.

 

Best,

 

BMF

 

EDIT:  Reduced slide show resolution so file sizes are 5 MB. (Thanks, micmacmo.)

 

 

Google Docs Public Links to BMF V8.1 Mod Documents

 

Click on a hyperlink or copy/paste to your browser window.

 

1. BMFs V8.1 Mod Tutorial Text:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9URWVIYWFKWGY2UzA

 

2. BMFs V8 and V8.1 Mod Tutorial Slide Show:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UQkVYOGdWUS15OE0

 

Error in slide 5: The picture of the cup shows two arrows pointing to the central hanger compartment and the area just below. I meant to delete those arrows because Acoustipack Lite/Paxmate Plus are Not installed in those areas.

 

Note: Slides 10 - 13 are photos posted from an earlier mod showing the steps for removing the ear side baffle dust cover around the drivers.

 

Note: I don't necessarily recommend drilling out the fake baffle ports unless you want Less bass. 

 

Note: Instead of completely sealing the stock baffle port, place a piece of masking tape over the baffle port. Seal the edges with glue. Pierce the center of the masking tape with a needle. Incrementally and gradually increase the size using a toothpick to find the baffle port diameter that works best with your overall configuration.

 

Note: As little as 1 mm, larger or smaller, can make a significant difference in the SQ for better or worse, depending upon your overall mod configuration. For example, I'm finding that a 2x2 mm bass port over the center of the lowest cup vent slot and a 1 mm diameter modified baffle port works well with my configurations.

 

3. Room Equalization Wizard Setup Summary:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UZHhnTkNVUEtYaW8

 

4.  Anyone can download and use REW for free. You can use, view, and manipulate .mdat files without having to actually make any measurements of your own. I recommend, though, that users should donate (any amount) to support the service.  Here's the link:  http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

 

I uploaded the REW raw data (.mdat files) to Google Docs for all incremental measurements I made. You first download and install REW and then download and save the .mdat files from Google Docs into your computer's 'Downloads' file. Next, open REW and click on 'Open', go to your 'Download' files, double click one of the .mdat files, and the data files will load into REW.

 

The default graph format is SPL FR. Tabs across the top of the measurement window allow you to 'Generate' waterfall plots and spectrograms. You must first adjust the SPL FR display to 'Zero' before Generating waterfalls and spectrograms.  To do this, click the 'gear' icon at the top right of the measurement window, type in -155 in the offset window and then click 'Add to Data.' Go to the left side, vertical slider to pull the adjusted SPL FR down into the display window. Now, you can generate waterfalls and spectrograms along with decay and several other options, if interested. 

 

In the T50RP Mods Summary WIKI started by Ardilla, I have a WIKI entitled "BMF V8.1 Mods". One of the links in this group takes you to a Google Doc that explains more about how to use REW, including screen shots for clarity.

 

Within REW's measurement window, and after you've 'Opened' a .mdat data file, you can delete all but the particular graphs you want to overlay with one another by clicking the 'red X' you will see on the left side of the measurement window. Next, click 'All SPL', located at the top tool bar of the measurement window, to display your chosen graphs as an overlay. You can also change the resolution by clicking the '-' or '+' tabs at the top left of the SPL graph; i.e. 5 db or 10 dB. You can save this specific group of graphs by clicking 'Save All' at the top left of the window and naming it. When you're done comparing this set of measurements, close this file, after naming and saving it, by clicking the 'Remove All' tab and re-open the complete .mdat file to repeat the process for a different group of comparisons. For example, you can delete all but the 3 graphs for "Stock Left Acoustipack Lite, Newplast, and type of pad (840, Stock, and FA-003 pads) for comparing and overlaying these 3 graphs. Do the same for any other combination of incremental measurements in one or both of the two sets of .mdat files I uploaded to Google Docs.

 

Here are the links for my Incremental Mods and Measurements REW .mdat files stored in Google Docs:

 

1 of 2 .mdat data files:  https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UczQtX3lxUW1CWnM

 

2 of 2 .mdat data files:  https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UblZtWjlISjYxSm8

 

5. Phantom Power Supply  & Panasonic WM-61A Mic Slide Show:

 

Edit: There is a problem with kibblefat's  phantom power supply. He's working on a solution. wdahm519's phantom power supply works "as advertised."

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UQVl3b1NORTZkY00

 

6. BMF V8 - A Relatively Simple Mod Variation That Sounds Great:

 

https://docs.google.com/document/d/10WkwNRrnmgcMtpjSQ-viAgQ3bBGbpv5P26iprhm-GAs/edit

 

Note: I edited this document and hope it is now more clear and easier to follow.

 

7. Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton jpg:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9USkRxS0U3aWd6alU

 

Edit: I received 3 boxes of Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton from a good friend in New York. The boxes and graphics are identical to the ones I've previously purchased. Unfortunately, the composition of the cotton is different. I can only conclude that Rite Aid used a different supplier. The thickness is approximately 50% less and the density is not as "fluffy" as the original cotton but much more fluffy than Rite Aid Rolled Cotton.  Bottom line: You cannot count on the contents and "version" of this cotton even if the box is the same as the one shown in the picture.  If the cotton is approximately 1 inch thick when you unroll it, it may not perform the same as the original cotton I used in these mods that is 2 inches thick. Note that both boxes contain the same weight = 4 oz. so the thinner cotton may be more dense than the original cotton. The 1 inch cotton may work, though, with the correct modification of the other components. EDIT: I have tried the 1 inch thick cotton and it performs similarly to the 2 inch thick cotton after adjustments to other mod components. It just takes a bit of tweaking.


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 10/8/12 at 8:03am
post #8029 of 10678

Thanks for those links.

Guess I have to bone up on the REW setup procedures.  maybe this weekend.

 

Looking forward to impressions on the latest version, you certainly have put enough time into tweaking and testing out the you know what.

post #8030 of 10678

Yikes, why is the slide show pdf 50 Mb?

post #8031 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Yikes, why is the slide show pdf 50 Mb?

Because there are many pictures

@BMF: Your BMF 8.1 look great, i will try when i have time wink.gif

post #8032 of 10678

Even with all the pictures... the size is a bit odd. The resolution on those pictures doesn't look high enough to warrant that. 

post #8033 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Even with all the pictures... the size is a bit odd. The resolution on those pictures doesn't look high enough to warrant that. 

 

I don't think the size of that pdf is related to our thread blink.gif

post #8034 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by proid View Post

 

I don't think the size of that pdf is related to our thread blink.gif


There are no coincidences gs1000.gif

50.

It's surely a sign from the orthogods.

post #8035 of 10678

OH @BMF, since you reverted back to flush-mass loading the baffles compared to your methods in BMF v6.3, did you divine any purpose of the baffle compartment, or is it just acting as ribs for mechanical support?

post #8036 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

OH @BMF, since you reverted back to flush-mass loading the baffles compared to your methods in BMF v6.3, did you divine any purpose of the baffle compartment, or is it just acting as ribs for mechanical support?

I think the ribs probably serve as mechanical supports to make the baffles more rigid.  Just a guess.

post #8037 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

OH @BMF, since you reverted back to flush-mass loading the baffles compared to your methods in BMF v6.3, did you divine any purpose of the baffle compartment, or is it just acting as ribs for mechanical support?

 

 

They didn't think that hard about it.  Seriously, they stuck the driver in an empty plastic enclosure.  The ribs are to add rigidity to the baffle.  That's it.  I don't think anything about the enclosure was designed with much intention except for maybe the vent. 


Edited by rhythmdevils - 5/3/12 at 12:31am
post #8038 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

 

I don't know your setup, but you probably have material of some kind damping the vent area enough that there is little difference between open and closed- it's effectively closed already. 

 

Right. Forgot about that; the vents are sitting under a bed literally.

 

Well, I left my paxmate out venting for about 2 weeks now... the issue with the smell should be better by now.

It seems quite many of you (easier to count those that don't) would fully cover the inside of cups with paxmate... how recommended is this?

post #8039 of 10678

BMF's recent post is just chock-a-block loaded with good information. One thing that might get overlooked in this flood of audio goodness is information on how to setup a basic frequency-response testing kit.

 

If you've ever questioned whether one of your mods actually sounded better than another (or that one of your mods sounded better last night than it does this morning), a test kit can help confirm or reject your listening impressions. And these are the docs you need to read read:

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

<...snip>
 

3. Room Equalization Wizard Setup Summary:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UZHhnTkNVUEtYaW8

 

4. Phantom Power Supply  & Panasonic WM-61A Mic Slide Show:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UQVl3b1NORTZkY00

 

<...snip>

 

For about $30 Canadian, including shipping, you can get the electronics components you need for the mics and phantom power box. The software, Room Equalization Wizard, is free and written in Java, so it works on a number of OS platforms. You'll need a soldering iron. If you've never soldered before, this isn't a bad first project.

 

This setup won't match the one that pros like Tyll uses, but it has saved me hours of tail-chasing and wheel-reinventing when it comes to T50 mods. 

post #8040 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

BMF's recent post is just chock-a-block loaded with good information. One thing that might get overlooked in this flood of audio goodness is information on how to setup a basic frequency-response testing kit.

 

If you've ever questioned whether one of your mods actually sounded better than another (or that one of your mods sounded better last night than it does this morning), a test kit can help confirm or reject your listening impressions. And these are the docs you need to read read:

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

<...snip>
 

3. Room Equalization Wizard Setup Summary:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UZHhnTkNVUEtYaW8

 

4. Phantom Power Supply  & Panasonic WM-61A Mic Slide Show:

 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UQVl3b1NORTZkY00

 

<...snip>

 

For about $30 Canadian, including shipping, you can get the electronics components you need for the mics and phantom power box. The software, Room Equalization Wizard, is free and written in Java, so it works on a number of OS platforms. You'll need a soldering iron. If you've never soldered before, this isn't a bad first project.

 

This setup won't match the one that pros like Tyll uses, but it has saved me hours of tail-chasing and wheel-reinventing when it comes to T50 mods. 

 

Interesting. Wouldn't it be more prudent to update the wiki article with this kinds of posts? And that video of how basic modding looks like. (So sorry I forgot your forum name :P). Either way, still bookmarking that.

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