Mine has a F3AL250v. Where did you bought ISOclean fuse?

Thanks for your reply, davve.
It seems you got the same fuse as I.

Could you tell me what's printed over your fuse box?

I checked that piece of paper, well, manual actually, and found this


In the manual it's 3A fuse.

But when looking at the backside of my amp, I found this


It seems the fuse pre-installed in the amp is in accordance with those specified in the manual (but not with what screened on the casing).

So what should I believe, the manual, or the amp casing?

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I bought mine from a distributor in my country. In your case, I checked ISOCLEAN website but couldn't find any dealer in Sweden, but you can try making contact with the distributor in US or Canada to see if they will ship to Sweden.

Here is the link.
ISOCLEAN POWER

By the way, in addition to ISOCLEAN there are many good alternative such as Furutech (Japan), or Hifi-Tuning (German). Some say these two are superior to ISOCLEAN, but more expensive, of cource.

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Thanks for the help, over the fuse it is printed 1A like your. Wich fuse did you buy? 1A or 3A? there are diffrent sizes on the fuses too.

I fitted a 2 Amp Xindak silver fuse and it does bring about improvements, especially in the top-end which has more detail, definition and sparkle. There is also more openness. Unlike PrTV with his high quality fuse, the improvement wasn't significant but it was noticeable, and along with the better tubes, tube dampers, quality ICs, etc, fine tunes the 332 into an even better amp than it already is.

It's 20mm type.

As you said yours is 3Amp Fast Acting type, I suspect what the seller told me should be true, 1A rate must be for Slow blow type. Since ISOClean has no Fast Acting model, I think you should get the 1A 20mm type.

I however bought 1.6A just because 1A fuse was out of stock at that time. I know that using a fuse higher than the suggested rate could harm the amp as the fuse may not open fast enough to prevent any damage, so, if you want to be on the safe side, just use the fuse with suggested amp.

However, if you want to be more sure by using the fuse with exact same spec as what pre-installed, you may need to get other brand that makes Fast Acting fuse. In this case, I suggest Hifi-Tuning, but it's a bit more expensive.

This is a good place for buying HiFi-Tuning.
Hi-fi Tuning Fuses - Parts ConneXion


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Godkin, is your Xindak Fast type or Slow type?
This is interesting since the stock is F3A, whilst the manual says 1A. If you can use F2A without any problem, we may be able to conclude that that "1A Fuse" on the casing means F1A. And it also helps others when they decide which type of fuses to buy.

Just checked and mine is the same as everyone elses, 3A Fast with the outside of the amp marked 1A.

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Ditto...

Me three.

Here is another place to buy the HiFi-Tuning 3A Fast fuse: HiFi-Tuning - Fuse - Small - System Enhancements

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Since all of us got F3AL fuse, maybe that 1A on the casing is just an error and the amp should use 3A Fast Blow as indicated in the manual.

In that case, Zodduska, the link you provided seems to be more appropriate since it's exactly the same type of fuse as described in the manual and what we found in our system. Plus, as I said, some said Hifi-Tuning is superior.

By the way, I did some search about Xindak fuse and found that it's Fast Blow type. It's interesting since Godkin use 2A Fast Blow type with his unit without any problem (fuse could blow prematurely if its rated amp is too low).

I agree PrTv, I figured since we all have 3A already it shouldnt hurt to swap out for the same value. Lower rating should be ok as long as it doesnt blow for no reason, but higher than 3A could be dangerous.

Re : The Fuse.

Help me out here, how can the fuse effect (or affect) the sound?

My basic knowledge of the circuit is that the fuse is designed to prevent a surge of power from 'swamping' the device, from either a short in the device or a surge down the mains. Clearly there is a fuse in the power cable, and then a fuse in the device, usually as a backup, or a fast burn to prevent possible harm.

Given that the fuse is on the AC side of the circuit, and that the amplification is on the DC side, how does the fuse change anything, acoustically?

Cheers

BT

I remember reading multiple times that when a tube amp is powered on, u should always have have speakers/headphones connected to it.

What would be the best to do when one wants to swap headphones on a 332, power it off and then swap headphones? Or is turning down the volume to 0% good enough?

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Acutally... I've had no problems with mine... swapping phones just by stopping play of the source... and... unplugging one set and plugging in another, without adjusting the POT setting, except for differences in volume by with various phones.

I suppose, you could turn down the POT... but... I don't think that's necessary, once you've stopped the source.

I have no idea... if... my procedure is risking damage to my amp, or phones... but... I don't think it is.

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This is a very opinionated subject, Is it a placebo effect or do these things improve the sound ? My personal thought is that cables on AC cannot alter the sound and if they do I also would like to know how ?, although I have to admit I have never tried. I will hold my judgement until I have heard a 332 with upgraded power cable and fuse.

I do feel that out going cables and interconnects can make a difference as these are on the analogue side.

Like I say I have not heard one so all the above can be ignored its just my thought. I think changing the tubes makes the biggest difference.