[RnB180]

did something similar a while back too

 

[Edwood]

While soldering that Neutrik locking jack is easy, man, it's a pain to line up the metal sleeve without it pushing off the strain relief chuck part, isn't it?

-Ed

 

[RnB180]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edwood While soldering that Neutrik locking jack is easy, man, it's a pain to line up the metal sleeve without it pushing off the strain relief chuck part, isn't it? -Ed

its similar to the XLR type assembly I believe, it was difficult at first but after then second connector it got easier.

Though I did use more solder then Yours pictured, It was 26 awg solid core wire. I was afraid of it prone to snapping. Plus its just a habit of mine to fill fill the visible hole

. Maybe a bad habit but has no adverse effect to the signal. and visually makes me happy and more content to cover the hole

, even though Im the only one who sees it.

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180 its similar to the XLR type assembly I believe, it was difficult at first but after then second connector it got easier. Though I did use more solder then Yours pictured, It was 26 awg solid core wire. I was afraid of it prone to snapping. Plus its just a habit of mine to fill fill the visible hole . Maybe a bad habit but has no adverse effect to the signal. and visually makes me happy and more content to cover the hole , even though Im the only one who sees it.

Your amount of solder is perfectly fine. Very nicely done.
The chuck is the same part used in the XLR neutriks, but it goes on from the back, so it's easy for it to push the chuck off. I guess it's more of a problem for me because, the able I used was pretty thick.

Still, Neutrik makes some really nice stuff, eh?

-Ed

 

[RnB180]

 

[Edwood]

RnB180, you are a cable making machine.

-Ed

 

[RnB180]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edwood RnB180, you are a cable making machine. -Ed

well I used up all my minis, so I dont think I will be making anymore for a while. I will make a few odds and ends for my friends studio gigs though.

 

[waltermeyer]

Im new to soldering, so I was wondering what the temp. range should be when soldering with the WBT silver solder? I got 1/2 lb. of it and abunch of star-quad and Neutrik connectors, and want to start making some of my own cables. But the soldering station I bought has a temp. dial. So I dont know if I should just plug in and go, or what. Any info? Thanks!

 

[RnB180]

Hi walter!

good to see you here, looks like you dropped a chunk of change to get started! be careful though, it can get quite expensive!

I use a 25 watt iron for everything.

never bothered upgrading any higher. the 25 watt iron is hot enough to damage the dielectric already, any hotter maybe a trickey. Ive always wondered if a 40 watt iron would be better for barrel ground solder.

 

[waltermeyer]

Im not sure what watt my iron is, (its in the garage and the wife is sleeping) but I think the temp dial goes up to 850+ degrees. I just dont know what to set the dial at.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=372-145

Here it is. I found the one I got at Parts express. It looks like its a 50watt iron. If anyone is familliar with the temp. settings on this one, I would appreciate some info. Thanks.

Oh, and RnB180, I did drop a little chunk of change, but with the price of cables, I will have all my materials paid for in 3-4 various interconnects/extentions. Im sure you know what I mean.

 

[DaKi][er]

Best shot I got of my dtpa amp I designed and made myself, showing the smd work

(on the very far left, because of the real crap soldermask that flakes off, there is solder where it isn't meant to be but those pins on the end are only going to the groundplane anyway)

 

[audiomortis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by waltermeyer Im new to soldering, so I was wondering what the temp. range should be when soldering with the WBT silver solder? I got 1/2 lb. of it and abunch of star-quad and Neutrik connectors, and want to start making some of my own cables. But the soldering station I bought has a temp. dial. So I dont know if I should just plug in and go, or what. Any info? Thanks!

just experiment with it. you only need it hot enough to melt the solder, so turn it up 1/4 way and wait a few minutes, and see if it melts it. If it does, you're good to go or you can turn it down a little and see if it still melts it.

With things like connectors you don't have to worry as much about over heating the terminals. With a ciruit board, you want to be a little more careful and maybe figure out what the lowest temp you can work at is.

If you're new to all this, try and grab a broken cable to practice on (or just and old crappy one). no use in messing up a perfectly good one.

 

[RnB180]

Quote:

Originally Posted by audiomortis With things like connectors you don't have to worry as much about over heating the terminals. With a ciruit board, you want to be a little more careful and maybe figure out what the lowest temp you can work at is.

well I know for a fact that is incorrect. Over heating terminals on any connector will result in damage.

rca's dielectric will melt and misalign signal pin position and the ring/tip on a TRS plug will shift

 

[RnB180]

dp.

 

[audiomortis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180 well I know for a fact that is incorrect. Over heating terminals on any connector will result in damage. rca's dielectric will melt and misalign signal pin position and the ring/tip on a TRS plug will shift

I didn't say that you can't dammage them, but it's not going to happen in a second. I've done hundreds of XLR and Phono connectors and I don't think I've ever totally fried one. when you're working on a board, you can fry an opamp in no time flat. Normal connectors are much more forgiving than sensetive electronic devices. If you're doing anything remotely right, you're not running much risk with connectors. You've got a little bit of time at a moderate temp on most connectors before they warp or melt, but again, there's no substitute for experience.