boilermakerfan: I'll send you pics of the type of pads I'm using. I can get them any size circum or supra, and if I buy bulk I get them dirt cheap. I'm using them right now, work outstanding.

Oh and for anyone interested. had a small meet with a fellow head-fi'er thats semi-local to me when I recabled his K701's.

To put the power requirements for dampened SFI's into perspective, where 650's were being well driven very loud, it was 1/3 of the dial turned on the volume of his amp. 120ohm sfi's in grado frames (closed vent with bitumen) and dampened, couldnt even properly drive them at full volume, 3x that of 650's. setup was marantz CD5001 ---> DAC Magic ---> Balanced CKKIII. (btw I heard no notable improvement with the ortho's via balanced, 650 on the other hand was a huge improvement balanced go figure)

I personally need a SE amp, if 3x what a 650 needs isnt enough, what are some amps I should be looking at?

Just read at Home - Path Too Long Utility

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I don't have any SFI ortho yet (but I have one on its way here, if everything goes right), but the Dual 720 is very hard to drive. I have no problems getting it loud enough for me on my 1 watt XcanV3. But my guitarrist friend maxed the XCAN, so for him it was a bit weak I guess. However, it drove the Dual with no annoying distortion at max volume, unlike the NAD C160 preamp which distorted horribly.

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Those wood block looks very good. The pictures makes me want to make a wood ortho as well

Dual 720's have a 2 watt power rating.....120ohms SFI's are 50W

wouldn't it be fun to film 50W going through your 120R SFI - probably not as spectacular an end as might be anticipated but it will surely be the end ..dB

heres my t40mkii with some thick dj type pads. the bass increased slightly. this helps a little with the thick pads put in previously. the fostex frame has no squeeze so a tight (and bassy) fit isnt too possible

i doubt the sfi's have a 50w rating - maybe the speakers they were installed in did.

the big yamahas have a max rating of 10W, but that's not the point really.

edit

The SF1 box (8-32 ohm) rates it at 5W / max 20W. Is 50W for the 120 ohm driver impossible then?

Yeah, as ericj says, it's for the SFI driver's intended use as a tweeter in a system with a crossover lopping off everything below 3 kHz or so. Normal program material (ie, music, not sines) doesn't have that much stuff above 3kHz anyway, so 50w of bandwidth-limited power (think of it as a lotta screech) isn't all that much. It's speaker talk. We're Orthsketeers. Pay it no mind.

Anyway, the puzzlement over how Yamaha evolved the earliest HP-series headphones continues. A couple of months ago, DAC found a Japanese website showing what looks like a photocopy of a xerox of a photograph of an HP-2 magnet:



Here's mine:



Notice that the holes are square with sharp edges rather than square with rounded edges (ie, as if the holes had been punched in clay) as the earliest Yamaha brochures show it, but the holes still look tapered:

).



I never noticed it before, but there are 45 square holes in a Square HP-2 and only 37 round holes in a YH-2. There are 45 round holes in the HP-1.

EDIT: So it would seem Yama was looking to make the HP-2 a scaled-down HP-1, only with square holes. But they used earpads that cover many of the holes! Hm. Has anyone seen an HP-1 with square holes? ..Curiouser, et cetera.

Photos of the nude driver are inevitable, just not imminent.

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Cool picture there of the driver. How about a nude picture of the driver without the pad?

Some of the SFI drivers (SF1, SF17) goes up to 100 000 hz, the specifications boldly boasts.

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Scared to open yours in case some hippy trousers fly out?

Well this round edged thing is your assumption, I think it more than likely doesnt exist in real life. You now have seen two square holed drivers with sharp edges. Most likely that Yamaha diagram is just some rough artist work, and it was supposed to be straight. Thats my guess anyway.

As for the hole numbers, what kinda significance would you assume (or now know) this has?

There is my late HP-1 model driver - Anisotropic type !



Regards !

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I'm interested in their ID openings and thicknesses. I'm assuming they're only available in pleather correct? For my custom headphones, I plan to only use leather for a few different reasons outside of sonics alone.

The KH-83s have really small holes in the front baffle cover. I'm going to use the chipped up KH-33 front baffles and drill out the holes to see if it brightens up the 83s a bit. Might start slowly with just every other hole on every other ring. It will help the SQ on the 33s when I transplant Koss KSC-75 drivers too.

Oh, and I'm glad you liked the wood selections. If you think they look good in those pics, I wish you could see them in person. Even my figured walnut didn't photograph well. I might have to send my favorites out to rythmdevils for some pro studio time!