[Thorsten Loesch]

Folks,

I cannot really comment on any ifi or AMR commercial policies, I am no longer involved.

I resigned as director at ifi/AMR effective immediately in March '19.

I served a notice period in operational capacity until end of Sep '19.

I had a further 1 year "non compete" period until the end of Sep '20, after which my consultancy company dropped ifi as customer.

Over time I have provided bit's and pieces of help to folks with issues with their iFi products, though I no longer have any relationship with iFi.

I just find it totally unacceptable how iFi treats it's customers with products that need servicing.

The information is sprinkled around, I will attempt to collect items here.

Please refrain from directly posting to this thread, it is not meant for lengthy discussions. I do not have the time to sustain any such. It would probably be better off as a blog, but I'm not sure how to get a blog spot here...

If you have a question, send me a private message and I will answer when I find time. Your consideration is greatly appreciated.

Thor

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Q: My ifi iDSD micro/Black Label has broken switches. I cannot find them.

A: The switches are either ALPS or equivalent chinese knockoffs. I really think iFi should provide the part numbers on demand, as they do not, here a list:

IEMatch switch:
Alps Alpine SSSS820501
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SSSS820501?qs=N5Jky1br14OXv4vkkV%2B%2B4A==

Filter or Power mode switch:
Alps Alpine SSSS711403
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SSSS711403?qs=fMKjfF2mFoiBMPikGIG/JQ==

Polarity:
Alps Alpine SSSS710607
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SSSS710607?qs=6EGMNY9ZYDTXHzgEWhg%2BTw==

Line out mode:
Alps Alpine SSSS820201
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SSSS820201?qs=4nKZKRgDHlnI2QoAHm%2BpWA==

This needs SMT soldering, probably the best choice for that these days are smartphone repair shops that actually solder and work on PCB's. They should be able to change the switch if you provide a spare part.

To disassemble the iDSD micro etc. remove the little plastic nubs fitted onto the actual switch actuators first. They are press-fit.

Do not attempt to slide the PCB out of the case without pulling them off. An angled head pair of small tweezers may help to get under the nub and pull it off. Use steady pressure and increase until the nub comes off, be prepared to catch it should it "jump off".

Thor

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Q: There are so many firmware version for ifi products, I'm confused. Which firmware is best?

A: There are two fundamental Firmware "blocks" for Xmos, for the 100 series chips (up to 5.XX at least while I was involved) and 200 series chips (no direct involvement from me, versions 7.XX). The big difference here are that these are radically different chip's that require completely separate firmwares.

The 100 Series chip's were used in all ifi products up to around late 2020, except iDSD Pro & iDSD neo. They are 8-Core chips. It is usually mentioned.

This includes the iDSD micro, nano, iDAC, Retro and most Zen V1. For these "main line" products we used keep a unified Firmware (same Firmware works in all products). This means firmware upgrades benefit older products and can even add new features through firmware upgrades as these are developed.

So the 2013 released iDSD nano could be upgraded via software to allow DSD256 on Mac & Linux or to enable MQA Rendering. I believe this policy of allowing older customer devices to benefit from updated firmware options has now been abandoned by ifi.

The 200 series chip's are more advanced 16-Core units, which nevertheless are around half the price of the 100 Series 8-Core Chips.

For the Zen DAC some "V1" units were shipped with V2 hardware, but a hardware lock that prevented them from receiving new features present in the later version firmware for V2. Pro iDSD is completely separate and as a result a bit of a disaster. Don't ask... iDSD Neo was completed after I left, so I have no idea.

There should be no "sound signature" to any of the firmware versions, other than the digital filter sound signature for the Transient Optimised filter option with the last generation firmware subversions.

Firmware variants generally related to different features, like maximum DSD speed, MQA Rendering and adding the Transient Optimised digital filter. These variants are designated by Letter suffixes.

Not all firmware generations have these feature "sub variants". They came to be when new features became possible, that needed to disable certain functions on existing hardware (e.g. MQA disables SPDIF as the processing power dedicated to SPDIF out is needed for MQA) or had possible incompatibilities.

For example to get DSD256 on Mac we needed to enable 768kHz PCM on the iDSD nano. Sadly the hardware on the nano could not handle 768kHz and 786kHz would be muted. And Mac as well Windows default to the highest available sample rate, so if you plugged in the DAC you needed to manually set the sample rate to get sound. So it was not possible to enable this by default for all products. A subversion needed to be flashed by users who need this feature.

Minor revision are designated by the number after the dot. These are generally best seen as "Bugfixes".

The major Version numbers are generally the XMOS Code base version (XMOS supplies a code foundation to chip customers).

So, for example V3.3 is based on XMOS Code base V3 and is the fourth Bugfix release of V3 (minor versions start X.0X). No subversions were available on V3.

Version 5.30 is is based on XMOS Code base V5 and is the fourth Bugfix release of V5. The "0" subversions denotes it is the mainstream firmware shipped ex factory and appropriate for most customers.

Alternative subversions use the exact same code but are compiled using different feature option settings and thus are the same firmwares, just with different feature sets. There should be no sonic differences, unless the firmware is the "Transient Optimised" filter version, which should sound different.

As a rule, the latest firmware revision for XU100 devices should be the most stable, most bug free with most features, at least up my departure, so use these. This means 5.2X (non-MQA) or 5.3X (MQA).

As for MQA, I am not a "Fan" of MQA. It seems to have died the death I predicted when I called it a solution looking for a problem. But if you are a die-hard MQA fan and you need the pink light for your mental well being, select the MQA version. That will be 5.30 or 5.3C to have the Transient Optimised filter.

Otherwise, for the best possible MQA experience, if your product allows "non-oversampling" (aka "Bit perfect" in iSpeak), use the non MQA firmware, using the "non-oversampling" setting. In my view this is preferred all around including for MQA Rendering. I'm still under NDA with MQA, so I cannot tell you why, you'll have to take my word for it and listen yourself.

Thus use V5.20 or 5.2B on all iDSD micro variants with the XU100 chipset and for iDAC 2. You also need 5.2x to get SPDIF out on products that have this, 5.3 disables SPDIF Out. Finally, if you believe that MQA is the work of the Devil and anything touched by MQA is terminally tainted, 5.2X is the firmware for you, with all products on the 5.X firmware block.

For all products that do not offer the selection of "bit perfect" I personally use 5.3C to get the Transient Optimised filter. That's my personal take, as always, listen with your own ears and pick what suits you.

For products with XU200 XMOS (V7.X and on) I have no experience or suggestions, except to note that 7.X is a whole new ballgame with a new chip and wholly new XMOS Code base. Expect early versions to be buggy. If later firmware versions are really less buggy - well, read what people write. No experience or insider knowledge for this.

Thor

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Q: How can check the firmware version of my iFi Product? How do I download firmware?

A: Current firmware, drivers etc. should be downloaded from ifi's website. I will not include a link. Google it.

To check the firmware version depends on your system.

For windows with the ifi driver installed, plug your DAC into the computer, open the control panel “cpl” part of the software and open the info tab:

Windows without ifi driver needs to install ifi driver.

For Mac, click the Apple Logo >
About this Mac >
More Info >
scroll down to System Report >
Hardware >
USB >
iFi Device

Clicking the name of the iFi device should show you information including firmware version, VID and PID number.

Linux - sorry, I don't use Linux.

Feel free to send me Mac screenshots and instructions for Linux in a private message, I will add the information here, with full attribution.

Thor

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Q: I want to replace the batter on my ifi product. Where can I get a replacement?

A: iFi offer a very expensive battery replacement service. If you do not want to use this "service", here the actual data for the batteries used in iDSD micro and iDSD nano and variants I have at hand. Note that battery specifications may have changed during the product cycle so check with the actual battery fitted. You may have to peel off the iFi sticker wrap to get at the real battery, information should be written on it.

iDSD micro family:

There is not a lot of leeway in terms of size, if in doubt select a slightly smaller battery. The dimensions were based on a "standard" product. The chargers in any of the units I was involved in are topping out at 3A or less charge current, so a fast charge current of 3A max should suffice.

You should retain the original battery protection circuit board, wire tail and kapton tape. Use a spot welder to weld in the battery into the original Protection PCB. It is unlikely that you will a completely ready battery that is plug & play on-line, you would have to get it from iFi, which if I understand right requires the unit to be send in and the change done by them at a considerable charge for a 5 USD part.

iDSD nano family:

Currently unavailable

xSeries (not Gryphon):

Be careful handling Lithium Polymer batteries, they are a fide hazard. Follow the required safety precautions.

https://www.uvm.edu/sites/default/files/UVM-Risk-Management-and-Safety/lipo_battery_safety.pdf

Thor

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Q: Do you have a suggestion for ifi's weird USB connection to a USB-C Laptop?

A: The connection is not "weired". It is standard compliant USB-A. You need either a USB-B socket on a USB Sink device or a USB-A plug that can be used with a standard compliant USB-A USB extension cable.

You can actually blame Apple for it. Because of this:

This allows a iPhone to be stacked with an iFi DAC with a simple off the shelf Apple adapter without a lot of extra cables and adaptors.

It WAS a great genius idea when it was first implemented, around a decade ago. It's just a bit outdated in 2023. USB-C would have been much more appropriate.

You need a USB-C to USB-A extension cable:

USB C to USB 3.0 Adapter (6.6ft),USB Type C Male to USB 3.0 Female OTG Cable Thunderbolt3 to USB Adapter Compatible with iPad Pro 2019,Samsung Galaxy S21 S20 Plus Ultra Note 10,MacBook Pro (Grey)

Or USB-A extension with a USB-C converter:

Syntech USB C to USB Adapter Pack of 2 USB C Male to USB3 Female Adapter Compatible with MacBook Pro 2023 iMac iPad Mini 6/Pro MacBook Air 2022 and Other Type C or Thunderbolt 4/3 Devices, Space Grey

OR you can take it up a notch. I suggest you buy a USB-C Hub to give yourself extra ports and make sure that there is a USB A Port. Something like this:

Satechi Aluminum USB-C Multiport Pro Adapter

Less expensive options exists. Using this gives you a USB repeater function, which is basically what the iFi iPurifier USB and the various iUSB Products are based upon.

https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/ifi-ipurifier-3-0.23374/

Keep using the blue cable, unless you dislike the colour, it is very good quality. The basic cable was used in the Mercury and Gemini USB Cables from iFi.

IF the blue colour offends you, you can use permanent markers or Techflex expandable sleeving and heat shrink (3:1 shrinkage) sleeving to change the looks as you like. It can also improve longevity if the cable is handled a lot.

Thor