[treys1]

I know this is probably a rare question, but how would one go about reducing bass on a set of open backs?

I know on closed backs you just start sealing up ports, but an open.....

 

[msing539]

Try a pad swap or eq.

 

[treys1]

Try a pad swap or eq.

Yeah I was thinking perforated pads. EQ works too, they just have WAY too much, so was trying to tame it a little bit physically first. Thanks!

 

[msing539]

Yeah pads should help a little depending on the headphones. Which ones are they?

 

[treys1]

Some DIY's from Aliexpress with 300ohm Beryllium drivers. I have the same drivers in a DIY closed set and while they are not lacking in bass in those, its nothing like these.

I also have another similar DIY open set that I did 32ohm wool drivers and those are very full, but also nothing like the latest set.

 

[WILLJS]

Some DIY's from Aliexpress with 300ohm Beryllium drivers. I have the same drivers in a DIY closed set and while they are not lacking in bass in those, its nothing like these.

I also have another similar DIY open set that I did 32ohm wool drivers and those are very full, but also nothing like the latest set.

if you find the frequency that's raised a lot (by just experimenting with faders) then it will be easier to remedy with losing sound quality

 

[treys1]

if you find the frequency that's raised a lot (by just experimenting with faders) then it will be easier to remedy with losing sound quality

I will do just that tomorrow on my (also DIY) test setup.

* I don't test in the garage with the door open, this is just when I built the little stand (and before I cleaned it up / sanded edges / etc):

 

[treys1]

if you find the frequency that's raised a lot (by just experimenting with faders) then it will be easier to remedy with losing sound quality

It's in the 120hz area.

 

[WILLJS]

get onto it then, that could sound horribly boomy if left unattended

 

[bagwell359]

Strips of dynamat on the rear of the cup (edge, flat parts) under the screen. Also on solid parts of the headband. I use it on all my cans because I dislike amusical vibrations and midbass excess. Start small, too much can deaden things to much. My cans (HD-600, HE-500, HE-6 SE) have about a 1/5" inch strip about 1.5" to 2.5" cut into 3 to 6 pieces. It's cheap, and easy to deploy.

After that get some test tracks for bass - 1/2 or 1/3 octave if possible, and a parametric EQ - and that'll do it in combo with the dynamat.

 

[treys1]

Strips of dynamat on the rear of the cup (edge, flat parts) under the screen. Also on solid parts of the headband. I use it on all my cans because I dislike amusical vibrations and midbass excess. Start small, too much can deaden things to much. My cans (HD-600, HE-500, HE-6 SE) have about a 1/5" inch strip about 1.5" to 2.5" cut into 3 to 6 pieces. It's cheap, and easy to deploy.

After that get some test tracks for bass - 1/2 or 1/3 octave if possible, and a parametric EQ - and that'll do it in combo with the dynamat.

I'm already using some deadening called Damplifier Pro from SecondSkin Audio. I have since starting this thread been playing with some absorption foams as well as adjusting the filter papers on the back of the drivers and have sorted my issue.

Thanks for the feedback!