question about wiring a toroidal transformer (opus dac)

[denden88]

it's a pretty important part of this build, and i've never wired one before. could some kind sole tell me which wire out of the blue, brown, gray, and black (the ones that are not connected to anything in the picture) i need to solder to which part of the power inlet (it has a fuse circuit built in)? thanks very much.

and also, if someone wants to reassure me on how to wire a usb module, dac module, metronome module, and the power module on the opus dac build, i would greatly appreciate it. i think i have it wired correctly, but some reassurance would be great.

thanks very much

pics:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/...c3120177_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3201/...eca077a4_o.jpg

 

[n_maher]

From your pictures that's an Avel Lindberg Trafo (which is standard TP stuff) and the info that you need is just about visible in the second picture you posted. Have a close look at that label and if you still have questions ask away, but you're 9/10ths the way there and you'll feel better and learn more if you figure it out yourself.

And did TP provide instructions on how to wire the secondaries (the part you have attached to the PCB)? That's every bit as important.

 

[denden88]

unfortunately i was unable to find that info on the TP site, and i have not emailed them yet. yes some further explanation would be great, i'm still very new to diy and i'm pretty anxious to get it working and hearing it.

also, yes i found a picture of a opus build that had the same transformer pictured going into that power module, so i have them connected in a way which seems correct.

it would be ideal if you could tell me which pins on the inlet to connect to which color of wire

 

[n_maher]

I haven't built the module that you're using (or any TP stuff for that matter) but I can tell you that Avel usually puts a black dot next to the wires on the primary side that go to Neutral. Typically that's blue and violet. The remaining brown and gray wires are the Live primary connections.

On the secondary side the black dot usually signifies the wires that would go to the ground connection on the power supply pcb, but again, not knowing the module in question I can't tell you exactly how that should be configured here.

The real bottom line is that if you're having this type of question I'd wait to get advice from someone who's dealt directly with this situation or Twisted Pear themselves. One other big word of caution, you're working with line voltage here, don't fool around if you don't known what you're doing. It's no joke and best case is you get a thump that hurts pretty bad.

One more thing, and I really don't mean to be harping at you, but yikes trim some of those pins on the bottom side of that power supply board. There is absolutely no reason to leave them like that especially when your mounting doesn't look very secure and you've got everything attached to a metal plate!

 

[denden88]

i'll contact them as well, thank you!

and i bout the bottom of the board, i literally just finished soldering all of it and have not had the chance to clip them yet - have to find the clippers. should i mount it on a piece of wood instead of that plate?

 

[error401]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif I haven't built the module that you're using (or any TP stuff for that matter) but I can tell you that Avel usually puts a black dot next to the wires on the primary side that go to Neutral. Typically that's blue and violet. The remaining brown and gray wires are the Live primary connections. On the secondary side the black dot usually signifies the wires that would go to the ground connection on the power supply pcb, but again, not knowing the module in question I can't tell you exactly how that should be configured here.

The dots are there to indicate the phase relationship of the windings. Any node with a dot is in phase with all other dotted nodes. Putting neutral on the marked nodes is a reasonable convention, but really it doesn't make any difference as long as you're not shorting anything.

Assuming you're wiring for 115VAC to 2x15VAC (both Twisted Pear bipolar supplies require this configuration), you want to parallel the primaries and have separate secondaries.

Connect Blue & Violet to AC neutral. Connect Gray and Brown to AC live. Connect Black & Red to one AC input on your power supply, and connect Orange & Yellow to the other AC input. Don't short the secondaries.

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by denden88 /img/forum/go_quote.gif and also, if someone wants to reassure me on how to wire a usb module, dac module, metronome module, and the power module on the opus dac build, i would greatly appreciate it. i think i have it wired correctly, but some reassurance would be great.

The only trick is to remember not to connect the sclock terminal from the metronome module to the DAC, the rest is pretty straightfoward.
(the link to the metronome board image @ the twisted pear site is borked or I would photochop it for you)

As far as the power goes, hook one of the outputs from the LCDPS to the DAC module and the other to the Metronome and you should be all set.


In case you get stuck on the metronome module the switch lables are:
"+" = 1 or high
"O" = open (middle position)
"-" = 0 or low

I have some photos around here somewhere if you would like...send me a pm and I will send you a link.

 

[TimmyMac]

To find what pin is what on the AC plug, plug your IEC cable into the wall, and AC volt each pin to ground. Live will be ~115VAC, and neutral will be 0VAC. This is how I did it anyways, but I was just too lazy to google IEC pinouts. Ground is the middle pin, BTW.

 

[nikongod]

im not sure if it will help, but the avel-linberg website is VERY well organised, and google indexes it regularly. a google serach of the transformer's part number should get you to their site promptly, which will get you the wiring diagrams.

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimmyMac /img/forum/go_quote.gif To find what pin is what on the AC plug, plug your IEC cable into the wall, and AC volt each pin to ground. Live will be ~115VAC, and neutral will be 0VAC. This is how I did it anyways, but I was just too lazy to google IEC pinouts. Ground is the middle pin, BTW.

I've never encountered a IEC that didn't have what the pins are labeled on the back, usually with a single letter designation (L,N,G) or similar.

 

[vixr]

guys, while we are sorta on the subject of the AV toroids and IECs, I have the PSU on my beta 22 mounted to plate glass...there doesn't seem to be anywhere to attach the earth ground from the IEC. What should I do?

 

[n_maher]

It seems to me that if your chassis is made up from non-conductive materials that there really wouldn't be an appropriate place to tie Earth (safety ground, whatever you want to call it) to the chassis. You might wish to tie the circuit ground or at least the input ground to Earth through a ground loop breaker or directly, although whether or not this is appropriate is completely dependent on the project in question. I'm not sure there's a "one answer fits all" solution. Or at least I don't have one.

 

[vixr]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif ...I'm not sure there's a "one answer fits all" solution. Or at least I don't have one.

Thanks Nate...I guess there isn't a big safety issue since everything in the enclosure is totally mounted on glass, which is mounted in red oak.

 

[denden88]

thanks for all your help guys, i've got it all hooked up and the power module outputs the perfect voltage. now i just have to figure out why the pc recognizes the dac but not outputting any signal. TP should be able to help i think.

 

[MisterX]

did you remove the "disable" jumper from the metronome module?