[tangent]

It's all been coverered already, but I thought I would lend an "official" (*cough*) opinion on the issues:

RN60 vs. RN55 Vishay-Dale resistors - I guarantee that the RN60s won't fit flush down on the board. The RN55s barely fit, with tight lead bending.

Neutrik locking jack (NJ3FP6C) - Don't ignore Eric's warning. You need a 24mm hole for this, which you simply cannot drill reliably with standard twist drills. I am dead serious here. Also, because the panel flange is only 26mm wide, you have to drill that hole precisely -- a 1" hole will not work, as it only leaves 0.6mm of clearance on either side. The only sane way to make this hole (IMHO) is to use panel punches, which are bloody expensive: $30-40 per punch and die pair, and that's if you settle for manual punches. If you add ratchets and such, be prepared to spend $600 or so on a small set of punches.

High-quality 1/8" jacks - Contradiction in terms. Personally, I use Switchcraft's 35RAPC4BH3. It's got nickel-plated spring-loaded contacts. It's got a clear top so you can tell if you melt something inside with careless soldering. They're available everywhere: Mouser, Newark, and even Radio Shack. Don't laugh, they're good jacks. I've literally used dozens of them. This part is only about $1.50 qty. 1 at most places; spend the money you save on better 1/4" and RCA jacks.

 

[eric343]

tangent: I would like to see a manual panel punch that will do Hammond die cast boxes... those walls are *thick*!

Note that drill bits that thick *do* exist; my old school's wood shop had some. However, here's where pilot holes really come into play- unless you used a drill press, they needed a good 1/2" pilot hole, and 1/2" drill bits need a pilot hole, too...

 

[tangent]

Greenlee claims that their punches can handle 3.5mm thick mild steel, which is over 1/8". How thick are the walls you're talking about?

 

[eric343]

I guess I'm wrong; the Hammond walls are 2mm (average). Where do you get those punches, again?

Or is the footnote to that statement:
* given a sufficently strong operator

 

[geom_tol]

Quote:

Originally posted by tangent Neutrik locking jack (NJ3FP6C) - Don't ignore Eric's warning. You need a 24mm hole for this, which you simply cannot drill reliably with standard twist drills. I am dead serious here. Also, because the panel flange is only 26mm wide, you have to drill that hole precisely -- a 1" hole will not work, as it only leaves 0.6mm of clearance on either side. The only sane way to make this hole (IMHO) is to use panel punches, which are bloody expensive: $30-40 per punch and die pair, and that's if you settle for manual punches. If you add ratchets and such, be prepared to spend $600 or so on a small set of punches.

On a drill press it's no problem to drill holes that big. Just push the drill thru really slow.
I do agree it's nearly impossible to do large holes like that accurately with a hand drill.

A good drill press is a better investment than punches, since it's so useful.

 

[geom_tol]

Quote:

Originally posted by tangent Neutrik locking jack (NJ3FP6C) - Don't ignore Eric's warning. You need a 24mm hole for this, which you simply cannot drill reliably with standard twist drills. I am dead serious here. Also, because the panel flange is only 26mm wide, you have to drill that hole precisely -- a 1" hole will not work, as it only leaves 0.6mm of clearance on either side. The only sane way to make this hole (IMHO) is to use panel punches, which are bloody expensive: $30-40 per punch and die pair, and that's if you settle for manual punches. If you add ratchets and such, be prepared to spend $600 or so on a small set of punches.

On a drill press it's no problem to drill holes that big. Just push the drill thru really slow.
I do agree it's nearly impossible to do large holes like that accurately with a hand drill.

A good drill press is a better investment than punches, since it's so useful.

 

[eric343]

I just answered my own question!
Of course, Mouser only carries the 22.5mm and 25mm versions, and Newark only carries Imperial sizes (24mm is ~34/36" and isn't a standard size)

Of course, they have a 15/16" which is within .25mm; you think that's close enough? *grin* (.25mm is about the equivalent thickness of 5 human hairs, according to my ruler [which has markings down to .5mm])

If you want it, it's $44.71, Newark part number 50B3754...

 

[Jupiter]

Quote:

Originally posted by tangent Personally, I use Switchcraft's 35RAPC4BH3. It's got nickel-plated spring-loaded contacts.

I also thought these jacks were nickel-plated, but I took a better look at these after your warm recommendation.

Actually, the contacts are silver-plated copper alloy.

http://www.switchcraft.com/products/..._schematic.pdf

 

[eric343]

Tangent: Will the META43 or META42 Mk. 2 have board-mount holes for those jacks?

* note for those that have difficulty drilling that accurately: Drill the hole for the volume control first, then use a sharp-pointed tool to trace a circle around the jack. Drill there.