Linn Axis

[Catcher]

I just upgraded my Linn Basik for an Axis, will be keeping the Akito arm. Been told its a good upgrade. The only problem is these decks have a reputation for fried PSUs. Anyone know anything about this or how to protect against it? I dont know how easy it is to fit an external power supply. I was thinking of getting a mains conditioner/surge protector as its mains surges that cause the problem from what I understand.

Still loving the vinyl.

 

[NightOwl]

I have a Linn Axis. I liked it better than the Basik also. I've had mine for 20+ years and my power supply is original. The power supply is very similar to the Valhalla supply for the Linn Sondek LP12. I've never investigated an external power supply, but there are some available for the LP12 that might work. The good thing is, that 90% of the time, damage is limited to the capacitors and replacing the fried capacitors in the power supply brings it back to life.

How dirty is the power where you live and have you experienced frequent surges? The reason I ask is that the surge suppressors and mains conditioners I've tried have adversely affected the sound from all of my tables. They seem to have less of an affect on my electronics. I must admit though, that I've never tried any of the more expensive conditioners designed for audio.

 

[Catcher]

I've no idea how dirty my electrical supply is or whether I get surges. My technical knowledge is zero with things like this. Just done the usual googling to see what other people are saying and this issue seems to come up a lot.
I'm more pleased that the deck arriving tomorrow is one you thought improved on the Basik, you're also the second person who's told me they've had one for 20 years without issue.
This is it for me now with TT. I love vinyl but I have a modest collection. Spent some time looking at used LP12s and I just can't justify the hassle/cost.
I'll buy a Knosti Disco cleaner and direct my energies to hunting down vinyl bargains.
Getting a denon dl-110 on the akito tomorrow.

Just to allay my fears about fried PSUs. Does that mean a good hifi repair place should be able to replace capacitors without needing no-longer available parts from Linn?

 

[NightOwl]

DON'T buy the Knosti. It doesn't work. Save up for a proper RCM like a Nitty Gritty or VPI, even a Kab EV1 where you provide your own vacuum. Manual cleaning is better than the Knosti.

I had an LP12. It has great PRAT and is dynamic, but it's not accurate. The bass sounds woody and the mid-range thick. I haven't heard the latest version, but I sold my original. The Axis is not as good overall, but is accurate and dynamic.

Yes. Anyone knowledgeable of power supplies should be able to fix it.

 

[Catcher]

A friendly LP12 enthusiast set up my Axis today. First we put a denon dl-110 on the akito and listened to it on the Basik. Big difference to the K9, just a lot nicer sounding and not as much surface noise. We then put the arm on the Axis. After about 5 bars of the first song we both agreed its a night and day improvement. Gorgeous sounding deck. A lot richer more dimensional sound than the Basik, better detailed and "frutier" as he said.
Thats the last time I'll be changing my TT set up for a long time.

 

[NightOwl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catcher /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thats the last time I'll be changing my TT set up for a long time.

Hah! That's what we all say.
Seriously, it's a very musical deck that you can live with for a very long time. If you happen to get the itch to upgrade in the future, don't spend any money on the deck. Perhaps a cartridge change or an isolation platform is what I would look at and that's it.
Spend your time and money now buying and listening to music. Between your deck and your Exposure amp it will be very enjoyable.
Congrats.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catcher /img/forum/go_quote.gif A friendly LP12 enthusiast set up my Axis today. First we put a denon dl-110 on the akito and listened to it on the Basik. Big difference to the K9, just a lot nicer sounding and not as much surface noise. We then put the arm on the Axis. After about 5 bars of the first song we both agreed its a night and day improvement. Gorgeous sounding deck....

Nice one. Axis is definitely a big step up from the Basik. The PSU issue is that it's a really basic design which wouldn't really pass modern EU CE directives.

The 240v UK voltage is stepped down via a couple of capacitors to 110v for the Philips Airpax motor. Is there an on/off switch or is it always in standby onced powered? if it's the latter then put it on a plug with and on/off switch and turn it off when not being used. Avoid sharing the mains loop with anything like fridges or kettles which send out big spikes.

The Logic decks that Nightowl and I have share a very similar British seat-of-the-pants design. Basically just enough components to do the job with the shortest signal paths possible, which avoids the possibility of noise from transformers by not using one

This isn't such an issue in North America because the mains is 110v anyway but stepping down via a few Rs components ceramic resistors and some NCC capacitors, which run at 85 degrees isn't the best recipe for longterm stability in the UK.

Keep it well ventilated and away from your Exposure amps as it's not shielded amazingly well either. Dress the phono cables carefully to avoid going under the deck too especially since you are using an MC cart.

I wouldn't bother with Linn or authorised dealers as they'll probably just tell you it's not supported anymore and to buy the new Majik LP12 instead. Circuit diagrams are probably going to be thin on the ground as well so if you can get hold of an electronics engineer to find their way around then that's your best bet. Don't try it yourself as these things carry lethal voltages.

If if does pop then you can always fit an Origin Live DC motor which start about 200UKP.

 

[Catcher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nice one. Axis is definitely a big step up from the Basik. The PSU issue is that it's a really basic design which wouldn't really pass modern EU CE directives. The 240v UK voltage is stepped down via a couple of capacitors to 110v for the Philips Airpax motor. Is there an on/off switch or is it always in standby onced powered? if it's the latter then put it on a plug with and on/off switch and turn it off when not being used. Avoid sharing the mains loop with anything like fridges or kettles which send out big spikes. The Logic decks that Nightowl and I have share a very similar British seat-of-the-pants design. Basically just enough components to do the job with the shortest signal paths possible, which avoids the possibility of noise from transformers by not using one This isn't such an issue in North America because the mains is 110v anyway but stepping down via a few Rs components ceramic resistors and some NCC capacitors, which run at 85 degrees isn't the best recipe for longterm stability in the UK. Keep it well ventilated and away from your Exposure amps as it's not shielded amazingly well either. Dress the phono cables carefully to avoid going under the deck too especially since you are using an MC cart. I wouldn't bother with Linn or authorised dealers as they'll probably just tell you it's not supported anymore and to buy the new Majik LP12 instead. Circuit diagrams are probably going to be thin on the ground as well so if you can get hold of an electronics engineer to find their way around then that's your best bet. Don't try it yourself as these things carry lethal voltages. If if does pop then you can always fit an Origin Live DC motor which start about 200UKP.

Sorry to be a dunderhead Memepool but what plug would have an on/off switch? I googled and couldn't find anything apart from an adapter that fits 5 plugs and has a switch. I think it just goes into standby when its not on. I pull the power chord out of the back when I'm not using it. If you could provide a link to the sort of plug with on/off switch you mean I would appreciate it as Id buy one.
What do you mean by dressing the cables?
I had a look at the Origin motor, no chance I would be able to fit one. If I could I would consider getting one as it looks like a good upgrade anyway.
The deck is well isolated from the amps. It sits on a granite plinth 3 floors up from the amp.

Someone told me a simple on/off switch could be attached to the power chord but even this is beyond my abilities.

 

[NightOwl]

Pulling the plug will work. If you ever require the schematics for the Axis, I can email them to you. Unfortunately I don't have a specific one for the power supply. There's also a Chinese manufactured Lingo power supply clone that is said to work with the Axis. It sells for about $220. american. I haven't done any research on it.

"Dressing" the cables means routing and securing them.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catcher /img/forum/go_quote.gif ... I think it just goes into standby when its not on. I pull the power chord out of the back when I'm not using it. If you could provide a link to the sort of plug with on/off switch you mean I would appreciate it as Id buy one.

For an on/off switch something as simple as a light switch like you would have on the cord of a lamp will suffice. Check out somewhere like Ryness. If you can change a plug you can fit one of these.
Maplin sell 6 way anti-surge plugs with individual switches for computer use for around 30 quid.
If you want something more "audiophile", check on ebay, there are loads of Chinese products and a good few small UK companies like Russ Andrews or Music Works making this kind of stuff. Whether it's worth the money is another matter.
I will admit to paying 100 quid for a fancy 6 way plug but then I have lived in several London flats with dodgy wiring. If you have '50s fuse boxes where
the fuse is basically a paperclip inside a bakelite plug then some sort of power conditioning is wise.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catcher /img/forum/go_quote.gif . I had a look at the Origin motor, no chance I would be able to fit one. If I could I would consider getting one as it looks like a good upgrade anyway. The deck is well isolated from the amps. It sits on a granite plinth 3 floors up from the amp.

The Origin Live motor upgrade is a lot easier than it looks and comes with full instructions. All you are doing is disconnecting and unscrewing the motor and dropping in a new one which is attached to an external PSU box. Somewhere like Walrus Systems in town, who are an OL dealer would do it for you. Well worth a visit BTW if you've never been as it's an Aladin's cave of analogue and they are really sound blokes. But if you're deck is working then I'd leave it well alone.