Has anyone tried to replace a captive power cord?

Sep 14, 2001 at 3:52 PM Post #2 of 5
I've done it a couple times. It's an easy job.

The cord usually has a plastic strain relief around it, where it goes into the chassis. Squeeze it with a pair of pliers from the inside of the chassis, and you can pull it right out the out-side of the chassis.

The hole in the chassis is usually big enough to allow you to put in a new, larger diameter cord without cutting any metal. I recommend the Volex 17617, made of Belden 's best power cable, but replace the molded plug with a Pass & Seymour 5266-X. Of course, this is a captive solution.

If you want to put in an IEC, get some chassis nibblers and open the hole with them. Schurter 6100.3100 is supposed to be a great IEC chassis mount. I don't know, because I use Neutrik Powercon instead.

When you're connecting the new cord or IEC, observe the same polarity. If you're replacing a two-conductor ungrounded cord, just connect the ground to the chassis with a screw.
 
Sep 15, 2001 at 10:46 AM Post #3 of 5
I have done it as well (correction, my dad did it as I was scared stiff of wiring it wrong!!)

It is easy. I had to cut the lead of my cd player (making sure you turn it off, unplug it and leave it for an hour duh!!) wire on and iec male plug (this is for the uk remember)and then plug in the power lead you want to use. Easy as that!!
 
Sep 15, 2001 at 9:47 PM Post #4 of 5
Thanks for the advice..a follow-up question, though: most of the IEC receptacles I've seen have exposed terminals..if I'm gonna cut the wire on the outside of the player and hook it up to the terminals, how do I cover them afterwards?
 
Sep 27, 2001 at 9:56 PM Post #5 of 5
You will have the protected terminals on the player end of the power cord, if you do it right, so that the end of the cord that is live is the protected end. (The IEC plugs come in male and female.) Did I explain that so that it made sense?
 

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