[Tsmmjr]

So basically as the title reiterates, I wish to soon create a speaker using a bandpass enclosure. But instead of just having one subwoofer making up the speaker, it will also have one mid range and a tweeter. 
For the enclosure, I will be using 1/2" MDF, and there will be two chambers.
In the chamber where the lowrange woofer will reproduce its sound, has a volume of 0.368 Cu(which I might make larger, because I have to add a port). 
In the second chamber will be where the front side of the woofer's sounds will be "captured", this is also where my other two drivers will be mounted.
Both the midrange and the tweeter are of course sealed back so I therefore do not have to worry about them turning into dangerous passive radiators. 
 
My Awful wording can be better explained by 3D models: 
 
 
 

 

 

 
You can see in my pictures, that I have not added a port yet, this is because I am still debating on whether or not to add one.
Someone told me that not having a port is a good way to "cook" my lowranger because it has no air to vent in either the front/nor back.
It was also stated that I may want to add a port because if I don't, the only thing I will be able to clearly hear is the wood resonance, since neither side of the woofer is outside the enclosure.
 
Hobbyist/ experts/ enthusiast, can I have help/recommendations/thoughts w/e on this "idea" before I actually get to gluing, drilling and cutting. 
 
Part List : For a pair 
Lowrange 
Midrange 
Highrange
A Terminal Cup
Some Rubber Feets.
And 1/2" MDF probably from Home Depot.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

   
Someone told me that not having a port is a good way to "cook" my lowranger because it has no air to vent in either the front/nor back.
It was also stated that I may want to add a port because if I don't, the only thing I will be able to clearly hear is the wood resonance, since neither side of the woofer is outside the enclosure.

 
Why not just aim the subwoofer to the rear instead of relying on the port to vent the sub sound? Sealed speakers or not I'd rather the cone of the sub fires that way. Any frequencies you're trying to control using a bandpass enclosure can be done through the design of the box or even the crossover. You might need a few more inches from the wall though.
 
Oh an use 3/4in MDF for added rigidity. A lot of DIY speakers sound better than cheap branded ones likely do because of the wood - those entry-level speakers sometimes just cheat and only the baffle uses 3/4in, while the rest are 1/2in (clearly seen on the seams of the vinyl wrap).