Critique my Custom Speaker Box Setup
May 5, 2008 at 9:18 PM Post #16 of 41
here are some pics

S5300021.jpg


These are my 2 speakers, cone, and sub woofer

S5300022.jpg


Imagine that being put inside a box, so that is basically how it would look, with the wood being around it. So should I make a separate casing for the speakers so they are closed off from the inside?

Also, you wont see the gold plates around the speakers, the opening is the perfect size so only the actual speaker fits out.

S5300023.jpg


This is how the cone is positioned with the sub. The sub will be visible from the outside. It is also raised about 2 inches off the ground.

NOW, the cone came from a box with the size of

5.9 in. x 8.7 in. x 8.7 in. (W x D x H)

My box will be this size, if anything smaller

9.8 in x 13.8 in x 13.8 in (W x D x H)

It might be smaller, seeing as there is alot of empty room, but I want to make sure that all the other stuff, ie crossover/amp dont interfere with the sound. So am I good to go?
 
May 5, 2008 at 10:52 PM Post #17 of 41
That will work great. BTW what I call a port you call a cone. It looks promising. Add something at the end of the port to prevent dust from getting in. When mounting the speakers try to use some type of rubber ring around the speakers. And flush mount means that you will install something from the outside and not within. When I build sub boxes you first measure then calculate the volume within the box then finally install the speakers. You can have a thousand dollar speaker with a bad box and they will sound crappy. But if you have cheap speakers and a well tuned box they will sound good! Again the cabinet (box) is essential to the sound of the speakers. But your configuration will work fine. But again as far as portable power goes. I'm not to sure. All I know is that bad grounding gives you that annoying hum that can come from some speakers. GOOD LUCK!
biggrin.gif
 
May 6, 2008 at 2:27 AM Post #18 of 41
Quote:

Originally Posted by cuba0555 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That will work great. BTW what I call a port you call a cone. It looks promising. Add something at the end of the port to prevent dust from getting in. When mounting the speakers try to use some type of rubber ring around the speakers. And flush mount means that you will install something from the outside and not within. When I build sub boxes you first measure then calculate the volume within the box then finally install the speakers. You can have a thousand dollar speaker with a bad box and they will sound crappy. But if you have cheap speakers and a well tuned box they will sound good! Again the cabinet (box) is essential to the sound of the speakers. But your configuration will work fine. But again as far as portable power goes. I'm not to sure. All I know is that bad grounding gives you that annoying hum that can come from some speakers. GOOD LUCK!
biggrin.gif



So would it be okay if I only expose the actual speaker on the outside, ie any casing will not be seen
 
May 6, 2008 at 10:09 AM Post #19 of 41
the idea of having the woofer front-firing is because i suspect that a fair amount of lower-mids will be produced by it, which would be muffled by firing downwards, making the sound boomier.
 
May 6, 2008 at 7:31 PM Post #20 of 41
Quote:

Originally Posted by jonnywolfet /img/forum/go_quote.gif
the idea of having the woofer front-firing is because i suspect that a fair amount of lower-mids will be produced by it, which would be muffled by firing downwards, making the sound boomier.


I want boom though?
 
May 6, 2008 at 7:54 PM Post #21 of 41
With these type of speakers the bass woofer is an integral part of the system, the frequency cutoff of the full range drivers will probably cut off quite high due to the relatively small size of the bass woofer. This all means that you will need the bass woofer firing forward otherwise you will lose integration across the frequency range. if you really need that booming sound you seem so keen on, ( many are not), you can have the port firing downwards. depending on what the cabinet will be finally resting on will have an affect on the sound Quality.
 
May 6, 2008 at 9:40 PM Post #23 of 41
Those speakers will not be able to produce much in the way of mids, neither will that "sub" produce much in the way of bass. You need all of those front firing for anything close to a decent audible range.
 
May 6, 2008 at 10:10 PM Post #24 of 41
Quote:

Originally Posted by RedLeader /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Those speakers will not be able to produce much in the way of mids, neither will that "sub" produce much in the way of bass. You need all of those front firing for anything close to a decent audible range.


K, ill rework some drawings and see what I can come up with. Just 1 last thing, does the empty space inside the box affect anything?
 
May 6, 2008 at 10:19 PM Post #25 of 41
okay, so would it look like this?

26523432sp3.png


1. What about the port, does it need to be in a different place now?

2. Since Ill need to be opening and closing the box constantly(battery powered), does it have to be an air-tight seal everytime?

3. How low should the sub be in comparison to the speakers, as far as possible, doesnt matter?

Thanks
 
May 7, 2008 at 12:09 AM Post #27 of 41
• Yes the empty space inside the cabinet is important.
• Yes having the cabinet as air tight as possible excluding the port is important to.
• No the position of the port is fine.
Try to use the rubber rings I told you about before or you can use silicon sealant for the speakers and the battery compartment.
 
May 7, 2008 at 2:35 AM Post #28 of 41
Quote:

Originally Posted by cuba0555 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
• Yes the empty space inside the cabinet is important.
• Yes having the cabinet as air tight as possible excluding the port is important to.
• No the position of the port is fine.
Try to use the rubber rings I told you about before or you can use silicon sealant for the speakers and the battery compartment.



Ya I will use some sort of sealant. So how do I figure out how big to make the box? Then also what is the best way to make some sort of hatch? Would it be easier if I make a separate compartment for the amp outside of the box, so then I would just have to run the cables to the actual box?
 

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