[mrjayviper]

as above.

I want to open up the top of the amp to let it more air. I think I can sort out the making the rectangular hole by bring it to a machine shop.

I'm thinking of "sandwiching" the mesh between the top plate and metal pieces and use a rivet. But the rivets would show.

Is there another method where the mesh is attached "cleanly" to the plate?

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[msing539]

I wouldn't cut a hole in the factory top plate just for resale down the line.

Assuming you have a top plate fabricated, you could actually have someone with a plasma cutter make the mesh grid for you so it's all one piece. Probably pricey.

Otherwise, maybe weld it from the inner side?

 

[mrjayviper]

I wouldn't cut a hole in the factory top plate just for resale down the line.

Assuming you have a top plate fabricated, you could actually have someone with a plasma cutter make the mesh grid for you so it's all one piece. Probably pricey.

Otherwise, maybe weld it from the inner side?

I thought of welding but that means the machine shop has to do everything. thanks for the suggestion!

 

[msing539]

I thought of welding but that means the machine shop has to do everything. thanks for the suggestion!

There might be a cold weld or epoxy solution that could withstand the prolonged heat without degradation.

 

[mrjayviper]

ohh epoxy. that's a thought! but if I'm in the shop getting a hole cut into the plate, maybe they can weld it for me at the same time

 

[tomb]

as above.

I want to open up the top of the amp to let it more air. I think I can sort out the making the rectangular hole by bring it to a machine shop.

I'm thinking of "sandwiching" the mesh between the top plate and metal pieces and use a rivet. But the rivets would show.

Is there another method where the mesh is attached "cleanly" to the plate?

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

If that's your strategy, remember that if you try to make an exhaust, you also need an intake. Airflow doesn't magically happen. Yes, airflow can be induced by the rising heat off of the top of your amp, but the airflow itself is already beyond the amplifier's parts, where any airflow could cool those parts.

If you want to induce airflow across the actual parts, that means an intake, too - another hole on the side or on the bottom. If it's a PCB-based amplifier, you would typically need the intake(s) on the side(s). That's because the PCB will block the flow from bottom, unless there are holes in the PCB.

 

[mrjayviper]

If that's your strategy, remember that if you try to make an exhaust, you also need an intake. Airflow doesn't magically happen. Yes, airflow can be induced by the rising heat off of the top of your amp, but the airflow itself is already beyond the amplifier's parts, where any airflow could cool those parts.

If you want to induce airflow across the actual parts, that means an intake, too - another hole on the side or on the bottom. If it's a PCB-based amplifier, you would typically need the intake(s) on the side(s). That's because the PCB will block the flow from bottom, unless there are holes in the PCB.

Thanks for the tip. I'm thinking of using a USB fan for force cooling

 

[tomb]

Thanks for the tip. I'm thinking of using a USB fan for force cooling

Sounds good, but watch out for noise - both mechanical and bleed-over into the audio circuit.