Guys has anyone successfully printed these on an SLA printer? Im very new to resin printing and have some questions.

That’s a good idea mate. It’s almost like these drivers have been purposely designed to break if anyone dares to tinker with them.

Here are the stl files for heated inserts guys: Exactly as stock except using a 3.5mm connector, and implementing heated inserts obviously.. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ddzghyfh2r1nj1k/AABnAwMfcxCW52jYTvR4MSwSa?dl=1 Ive included an stl for the front slider cover, as I managed to strip the...

I'll put the stl files up when I get time this week mate, I was going to tweak a few things slightly, but I've put them together now and they sound just great and screw together very nice and tight. I'll also put some links for the threaded inserts I used, the cheap Chinese ones are ok for...

Cheers...Im all for stupid ideas haha, what did you have in mind ? Something I just stumbled upon, it's really quite simple to DIY a reusable silicon gasket to save applying/removing silicon between the cup and the baffle every time you fancy opening them up, and it looks surprisingly good...

No that's with support buddy, I've adjusted my support settings so they literally come off in 1 piece with very little resistance....when I printed them originally I lifted the cup from the print bed and all the supports stayed stuck to the print bed ! The settings I use can be found on the...

OK so Ive printed off my threaded insert mod, and so far so good. I can screw them down nice and tight and I think as long as I dont over do the tightening there should be no problem...the ring is now mounted to the baffle with 4 threaded screws also, so no glueing is involved, although im still...

That’s the easy way I guess mate, but it seems a bit hacky for me. I’ve modded the design now to incorporate heated inserts, so the self tapping screws can be replaced with m2.5 hex screws. Last idea I’m toying with is replacing the self tappers that hold the driver to the baffle, I’m waiting...

No problem, happy to share when im done mate.

I toyed with the idea of a transparent pair, but decided against it all you'll see is the back of the acoustic foam. The main issue I found with the originals were the horrible screws, no matter what material you use to print these thats always going to be the weak spot, I love experimenting...

man those are beautiful!

Thats excellent thanks, mine use the same connectors so that's perfect, those ones you linked to aren't ridiculously priced either. Typically the comfort strap is unavailable for me, so if anyone can link to something similar that would great.

I like the plain white, looks cool! Can I ask where you purchased the comfort strap, and also your cable?

The default settings for my Prusa, set in the slicer, were far too difficult to remove at first. I just went on their forums and someone a lot smarter than me had posted his support settings and now they're much easier to remove...with PETG they tend to stay on the steel sheet when I pull the...

@Pars yeah they don't look too bad. fdm 3d prints are never going to look great straight from the printer. Get yourself some primer, some paint, and a range of different grit sandpapers. The main problem with PLA is it is a nightmare to sand...it takes ages. My first set were PLA, then for the...

Interesting...Ive finished my first pair, but there are a few slight imperfections that I'd like to address in my second attempt. I'll definitely be taking a look at your modified designs. Thanks. Out of interest what are you using to make the gaskets from?...in the end I managed to cast a...

Excellent, thanks mate. Edit: @VanHai the first link is AK-PAX-2, the second one is AK-PAX-1...are they definitely the same?

Guys is this 4mm acoustic foam ok to use? https://www.scan.co.uk/products/akasa-paxmate-ii-acoustic-sound-proofing-kit-for-case-midi-to-full-tower or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Akasa-AK-PAX-1-Paxmate-Noise-Reduction-Mat-for-Midi-ATX-PC-Case-/302908258438

Thanks buddy, but ideally I would like them as close to the originals as possible, apart from the connector.

Thanks buddy. I've had a quick look but the only ones I could see on there (with 3.5mm connectors) were the ones with the 'bass screw' modification. Ideally I want to keep these as close to the Mr Speakers originals as possible (but with 3.5mm connectors). It could well be the case that I...

Quick question guys: Can I fit 3.5mm connectors on cups printed from the original .stl files, or do I need the modified .stl files? Cheers